To paint or polish Vin
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,148
From: Plano, TX
It'll still leak. The problem is where that is can let water lead down to the inside of the firewall or between the panels. A relatively minor problem, especially if the car stays in the garage and only sees good weather.
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From: San Bernardino, CA
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,802
From: Northern VA
And FYI, these are not normal rivets.
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 941
From: Hinckley, Ohio
I'd think that the seam-sealer on the rivets is there to keep cowl rainwater from dribbling down the firewall. Joe, never thought vibration prevention.
Trim tags are stamped aluminum, I wouldn't touch 'em with any abrasive. Solvent wipe and spray.
Trim tags are stamped aluminum, I wouldn't touch 'em with any abrasive. Solvent wipe and spray.
Last edited by F-85 4-4-2; Mar 17, 2023 at 01:13 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 26,049
From: Earth
These guys have a custom tool (they say) if you're interested & totally retentive regarding what the back-side of the rivet should look like (who would care WTF the back-side looks like?). At any rate:
There are two methods to install the rivets:
1) The easiest way is to merely epoxy the rivets in place (do not use super glue). Put a small amount of epoxy around the barrel part of the rivet and push the rivet through the trim tag into the firewall/cowl. Let the epoxy set and the tag will look like it was installed at the factory. No one can see behind the firewall/cowl to see that the rivet was not crushed against the back. As an extra precaution I would suggest putting a dab of the epoxy on the back of the trim tag.
2) We now offer a custom made rivet installation tool for an additional $17.00 when you order a new trim tag. This tool will ensure that the rivets are installed in precisely the same way the factory installed them at the plant. The appearance of the rivet from both the front and the back will be factory correct. Also, note that most trim tag rivets had Black Sealer/ Body Filler (caulk) pushed into the hollow part of the rivet after installation
Click here for Rivet Ordering Instructions.
SOURCE: http://www.trimtags.com/rivet-instal...tructions.html
RIVET INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
These instructions are for Trim Tag rivet installation only.There are two methods to install the rivets:
1) The easiest way is to merely epoxy the rivets in place (do not use super glue). Put a small amount of epoxy around the barrel part of the rivet and push the rivet through the trim tag into the firewall/cowl. Let the epoxy set and the tag will look like it was installed at the factory. No one can see behind the firewall/cowl to see that the rivet was not crushed against the back. As an extra precaution I would suggest putting a dab of the epoxy on the back of the trim tag.
2) We now offer a custom made rivet installation tool for an additional $17.00 when you order a new trim tag. This tool will ensure that the rivets are installed in precisely the same way the factory installed them at the plant. The appearance of the rivet from both the front and the back will be factory correct. Also, note that most trim tag rivets had Black Sealer/ Body Filler (caulk) pushed into the hollow part of the rivet after installation
Click here for Rivet Ordering Instructions.
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 5,508
From: Seneca Falls, NY
These guys have a custom tool (they say) if you're interested & totally retentive regarding what the back-side of the rivet should look like (who would care WTF the back-side looks like?). At any rate:
SOURCE: http://www.trimtags.com/rivet-instal...tructions.html
SOURCE: http://www.trimtags.com/rivet-instal...tructions.html
Looks identical to factory:
Last edited by allyolds68; Mar 17, 2023 at 01:00 PM.
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,802
From: Northern VA
I actually have the tool. You can also use a punch. This isn't rocket science. You just have to push down on the dome part down inside the rivet, which expands the cylinder enough to lock it in place. This is not a highly-loaded application. The factory did this in seconds on the assembly line.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 5,508
From: Seneca Falls, NY
I actually have the tool. You can also use a punch. This isn't rocket science. You just have to push down on the dome part down inside the rivet, which expands the cylinder enough to lock it in place. This is not a highly-loaded application. The factory did this in seconds on the assembly line.
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Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 26,049
From: Earth
I actually have the tool. You can also use a punch. This isn't rocket science. You just have to push down on the dome part down inside the rivet, which expands the cylinder enough to lock it in place. This is not a highly-loaded application. The factory did this in seconds on the assembly line.
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From: Evansville, IN
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From: San Bernardino, CA
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