I learned from this site that the upper ball joints were riveted.My question is ,are these what they looked like??


The other pic is of a u joint-what did the factory ones look like and how are they different from today

Thanks, Ted

 

Yup, Ted those are originals. If you look at the CSM for these cars, remove is to drill out. Reinstall you use bolts,washers and nuts. Right out of the suspension section. BTW my uppers were original too, with 120k on them

 

Hey Allan-used what i learned here and applied it !-Any idea on the factory u-joint part ?

 

Not exactly sure what you're asking for? Are you looking for a part number or something? If you're going to replace the u-joint, get one with a zirk fitting so it can be greased. Most old u-joint failures were from lack of lube on the roller pins.

 

Some of you guys really mess with my head by getting into dark corners of the past. I believe I'm looking at a factory u-joint like I haven't seen in years. Guys, notice the absence of a steel retaining ring on the bearing cup.

Instead of using a steel retaining ring to hold in the bearing cups GM injected plastic into a slot around the cup and yoke. I see what looks like a little plastic nub sticking out of the yoke. It's no big deal, just press out the old joint and the plastic will shear off. Then the replacement will have steel snap rings that fit into a groove.

 

Okay, another way -would you say this u-joint is original. The odometer on this car reads 5400 miles,ball joints,u joints pedals interior floor brakes, lines etc all look great for a car with 105400 miles.I love original, and the more I find the happier I am!

Ted
How's the arm

 

If it has no C clips on the inside of the ear around the cap then its original. If you need to change it, its a good idea to heat up the ear till the plastic oozes out of the holes on the side. makes it a hole lot easier getting the old one out alot easier

 

And that just filled in the missing gaps in my memory. Thanks 4424me!

 

Both the u joint and ball joints look good!even took a little grease.(the ball joints did)

When I do remove, good to know this imfo

Ted

 

if you want to keep the factory look, there are kits that have what looks like a rivet from the top but actually is threaded underneath.

 

Upper ball joints can last a long time because the were known as "follower" ball joints. Being on the upper control arm they did not carry any load sp they just followed the lower ball joint
To get those U joints out you must first heat up the yoke with a torch, you will then see the plastic snake out of the hole in the yoke.