olds4421st

Help me please! Do I sell or do I keep? Paint is the issue. The car is # matching all original 400 engine 4 speed and interior. Have purchased and installed two used fenders, and pass. door., Needs left rear quarter because of body damage and some rust. Mechanical I can handle, but body work is not my thing and in this town out of 4 shops tried, only one said yes. So how rare is 1968 4-4-2 that is a number matcher? As stated before this is my first Olds. Said I was done with cars 16 yrs ago, I didn't even put up a shop at the new house!! just a double attached garage. Trying to convince my wife to sell and move so I can have a shop,. is harder than restoring this car. I was in auto business 33 yrs 1970-2003, all phases of repair, except body and paint. Chevelles were my interest and hobby. Thanks for listening.

Paul

droldsmorland

If you were in the business then you know how expensive and what's involved in a good paint job done right.
Sounds to me like you need to purchase turn-key car, one that needs little tweaks. Leave this one to someone who wants this type of project.

Numbers matching means different things to different people. If the block, trans and rear end are matching to the car that's a good start and you're on your way, Some consider everything, distributor, carb, wheels, correct paint colors etc...to be called "numbers matching".

This car is not as common as a Chevelle, though it is a desirable car in the Olds world, especially 68 lovers such as myself.

Upload some pictures showing the money shots, all the METAL...chassis, frame, floors, trunk pan, pan extensions, rear quarter and rocker pinch welds, front & rear metal areas under the windshield/back glass, door seams, front fender doglegs etc...Is it a vinyl top car? What rust lurks under the top? This will go a long way to give the car a good honest description to hone in on its value. If you paid 20K you will likely be upside down after a good restoration. If you paid 5K then you will be somewhere around breaking even with a good resto.
Does it run and drive? What else do you know about it?
Post pics of it and of the VIN and Cowl tag, we can decipher it for you.

olds4421st

Yes, it is all there as you stated, no vinyl all Jade Gold, S-S color code. I did post some pics already, the carb is original rebuilt it myself when I did the new fuel system. Thanks for your input, this car runs and drives great, did put on headers when new exhaust was installed cheaper than new manifolds. I Have saved most parts that I have replaced.

Yes you are right, cost of paint is whats holding me back! Thanks I will work on your suggestions, very helpful. Turn key has never been my thing.

droldsmorland

Agreed on the turnkey thing. I like to do everything myself. Anytime I let anyone else touch ANY of my vehicles I most assuredly have to go back in and correct the hack.
I'm at work and the firewall doesn't allow pics to show. I'd complain but this site shouldn't even come up...big brother does sux!

Have you thought of painting it yourself? You don't need to do a 2 stage. Single stage paints come out nice with 100% attention to body prep details(block sand forever and work the gaps!). I never painted before until I took a stab at single stage enamel 25 years ago. It came out great and it was metal flake blue/tan 2 tone on a 1988 S15 Blazer. Hung my own rear quarters on it too(first time for that as well). Came out respectable because I paid attention to the prep. Lacquer is real easy but hard to find and not cheap, hell EPA probably has it outlawed by now. 2 stage is easy too. Just don't clear it until you are happy with it. No paint products are cheap. Expect at min 2K-3K in materials all in. And that's for the bargain paints.

Another scenario is to strip all the trim glass and chrome yourself. Have a body shop do the hard part up to primer and cut in. Take it home and shoot it. I've shot cars in less than desirable shops with good results. Just wet down the floor prior to painting(don't let the hose or your feet splash the water up into paint so light on the water just enough to keep the dust stuck to the floor) and always use a moisture filter on the compressed air line before the gun. Hang plastic and use 2 wally world box fans on one end with cheap furnace filters on the intake side. Open a window on the opposite end and install a furnace filter there...poor man's paint booth. Make sure the compressor has enough *** to keep up with a regular or HVLP gun. Hey, it may not make it to Mecum but will certainly be presentable for cruise night.. And you DIY.

Tip...Have the front n rear glass professionally reinstalled.

olds4421st

Thanks for your advice. I did see plastic booth done 20+ yrs ago, car turned out pretty nice too. The only thing I ever painted was 63 Studebaker pickup when I was 17 yrs old in my parents back yard. Literally The Big Sky Garage, enough said on that.

Thanks again.