Olds Dad Builds a Rotisserie
#1
Olds Dad Builds a Rotisserie
I've always wanted one, but couldn't justify the cost - so I did a little web research and decided I would make one.
Bought some surplus tube steel, two Harbor Freight Engine Stands, and two Harbor Freight Ram Jacks - a few metal blades for my chop saw and a lot of wire from the welder, and now I have one.
If anyone is interested, here is what I did
Photos 1, 1a - The materials...1-1/2" to 3" tubes, and my HF Haul
Bought some surplus tube steel, two Harbor Freight Engine Stands, and two Harbor Freight Ram Jacks - a few metal blades for my chop saw and a lot of wire from the welder, and now I have one.
If anyone is interested, here is what I did
Photos 1, 1a - The materials...1-1/2" to 3" tubes, and my HF Haul
#2
2 - Cut up the Engine Stand to allow it to telescope inside the 2 x 4 tube
3 - Bar stock for spacers to make the clearance more acceptable
4 - Holes for pin stops for the vertical adjustments
5 - Welding the tube to the base of the engine stand
3 - Bar stock for spacers to make the clearance more acceptable
4 - Holes for pin stops for the vertical adjustments
5 - Welding the tube to the base of the engine stand
#3
6 - Widen the base of the (inverted) engine stand
7 - Mock up of the vertical adjustment for the telescoping tubes
8 - Add brackets to hold the ram jack for lifting
10 - One End Frame complete
7 - Mock up of the vertical adjustment for the telescoping tubes
8 - Add brackets to hold the ram jack for lifting
10 - One End Frame complete
#4
13 - The rotating frame part that will attach to the car
14 - Bracket for attaching to the modified engine stand
16 - Threaded rod with stops to give the rotating frame adjustment for finding the center of gravity when the car is on the rotisserie
17 - Better view of the threaded rod set up
19 - Rotating frame assembly
14 - Bracket for attaching to the modified engine stand
16 - Threaded rod with stops to give the rotating frame adjustment for finding the center of gravity when the car is on the rotisserie
17 - Better view of the threaded rod set up
19 - Rotating frame assembly
#7
Good interesting info but mostly I'm jealous of the space you have to put it in. Wish I had a shop like that. Keep us informed on how it preforms when you put it into action. Witch one of your cars will get the first ride on the merry go round? Good work Gordon...Tedd
#8
Good interesting info but mostly I'm jealous of the space you have to put it in. Wish I had a shop like that. Keep us informed on how it preforms when you put it into action. Witch one of your cars will get the first ride on the merry go round? Good work Gordon...Tedd
Thanks Tedd - Yes, I am very fortunate to have the garage space that I do - yet somehow it's never enough!
My '55 2 Door Sedan is first up - hopefully next weekend!
#11
I used two engine stands for a frame rotisserie. As you no doubt noticed, the tube that the head pivots on is not parallel to the floor; a little slop allowed in the mounting of the frame took care of that, but I suppose you fixed the issue when you modified yours.
#12
Yeah - that initially threw me for a loop, but if you see my first batch of photos, the part that was angled back is what I cut off and inserted into the larger 2x4 tube to telescope. The larger tube was cut off square and welded onto the base vertical to eliminate that problem.
#20
Very nice job, I bought steel, hydraulic rams and other to build the same maybe a year ago. Im hoping I am soon to build it. Yours looks very nice, I bought trailer stub axles and hubs to use for my rotating head. Im sure thats over kill but it should spin nicely once lined up and balanced. I like your Idea of the long threaded shaft to raise and lower it to balance it. Do you have any recomendations for someone whos building one?
Thanks
Steve
Thanks
Steve
#21
Very nice job, I bought steel, hydraulic rams and other to build the same maybe a year ago. Im hoping I am soon to build it. Yours looks very nice, I bought trailer stub axles and hubs to use for my rotating head. Im sure thats over kill but it should spin nicely once lined up and balanced. I like your Idea of the long threaded shaft to raise and lower it to balance it. Do you have any recomendations for someone whos building one?
Thanks
Steve
Thanks
Steve
#22
Dang!
Having seen yours, I find it hard to justify buying one now...
I'm right on the cusp of needing one for my '64 coupe. The body is coming off tomorrow and going onto a dolly for the time being whilst I blast and PC my frame and suspension. That should give me enough time to build it...
Having seen yours, I find it hard to justify buying one now...
I'm right on the cusp of needing one for my '64 coupe. The body is coming off tomorrow and going onto a dolly for the time being whilst I blast and PC my frame and suspension. That should give me enough time to build it...
#25
Very nice, Gordon. I am interested in how well the assembly moves on those casters loaded. The rotisserie I have is an absolute biatch to move on pavement. I'm thinkung of changing them to something else but was wary due to the weight with a body on it.
Nice welding. Seems the only way I manage to weld something good is when I short a battery cable.
Nice welding. Seems the only way I manage to weld something good is when I short a battery cable.
#28
Hey Gordon, great job!
You will love having this tool. Worth every penny, whether DIY, or purchased. I Saved up until I could afford one and wish I had done it long ago.
One question/comment, on your "center of gravity" adjustment you do have those horizontal locking bolts going through holes in the inner tube right? You aren't using them like set screws. I know it limits your fine adjustment but I'd recommend through holes.
Joe
You will love having this tool. Worth every penny, whether DIY, or purchased. I Saved up until I could afford one and wish I had done it long ago.
One question/comment, on your "center of gravity" adjustment you do have those horizontal locking bolts going through holes in the inner tube right? You aren't using them like set screws. I know it limits your fine adjustment but I'd recommend through holes.
Joe
Last edited by jozw30; October 10th, 2014 at 08:03 PM. Reason: Poor spelling
#29
Hey Gordon, great job!
You will love having this tool. Worth every penny, whether DIY, or purchased. I Saved up until I could afford one and wish I had done it long ago.
One question/comment, on your "center of gravity" adjustment you do have those horizontal locking bolts going through holes in the inner tube right? You aren't using them like set screws. I know it limits your fine adjustment but I'd recommend through holes.
Joe
You will love having this tool. Worth every penny, whether DIY, or purchased. I Saved up until I could afford one and wish I had done it long ago.
One question/comment, on your "center of gravity" adjustment you do have those horizontal locking bolts going through holes in the inner tube right? You aren't using them like set screws. I know it limits your fine adjustment but I'd recommend through holes.
Joe
Yeah...I've wrestled with that aspect - currently no through bolts at that point because of what you said....limiting the fine adjustment. My thought was that the double set screws (both beefy 5/8" diameter bolts) as well as the redundancy of the threaded rod assembly would be ok.
I'm an engineer by trade and I put "numbers" to this stuff and on paper one set screw alone is more than enough - so that, times two, plus the rod assy makes me feel a little better - but like I said, I wrestled with putting through bolts in as well. Still may depending on how it "feels" when I get it on there.
I appreciate the input and suggestions -
#30
I think after all the misc. hardware and etc... I have about $550 into it - about a third of what a decent one costs. Biggest cost was the tube steel - nowadays it's hard to find it since everyone scraps everything - had to buy it new although it was 'surplus' so it was a little cheaper.
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