oil filter o ring blowing out
#1
oil filter o ring blowing out
i have a 72 455 motor when i start it in the first 5 seconds it blows the rubber oil filter seal out with oil i changed the oil pump and the filter housing still doing it any suggestions thanks chris
#2
Check the relief/bypass valve in the filter housing to make sure its not stuck. Are you 100% sure you have the correct filter? Are you putting it on tight enough? Rule of thumb is 3/4 of a turn after the gasket makes contact with the housing...no more that one full turn.
#3
In addition to the above, make sure there isn't a second rubber gasket stuck to the oil filter adapter.
If all else fails, install a pressure gauge in the oil sending unit port on the drivers side front of the engine and actually measure the oil pressure.
If all else fails, install a pressure gauge in the oil sending unit port on the drivers side front of the engine and actually measure the oil pressure.
#4
Ditto. Check for old rubber seal from old filter. Seen that happen.
#6
#8
Been there, done that. But it was a fram on a ford so I had 2 strikes against me from the start. Oil went everywhere when I started the motor so got to spend an evening cleaning the garage floors with my wife just shaking her head. Good luck and hope your problem is as simple as that.
#10
From the original post it sounds to me like both oil pumps and both filter housings have produced the same results? Would that be a true statement? Before we can go any farther here we need you to verify what the oil pressure is with a known good pressure gauge. Have you verified that you have the correct filter? What weight oil are you using?
#11
That should rule out the extra gasket left on the adapter also.
The chance that both of either part is wrong to this extent is about zero.
Measure the pressure at the port at the front left corner of the engine.
Does this blowout occur even at idle?
#12
I have only seen this happen when either the old seal is left on the housing or the filter has been tightened too much. All it takes is hand tight once the seal touches the housing. I don't mean gorilla hand tight either, it's more like snug than tight.
Can't tell you how many times I've seen people tighten them with the wrench designed to take them off not put them on!
Can't tell you how many times I've seen people tighten them with the wrench designed to take them off not put them on!
#13
#14
My point is I have never had to tighten them with a wrench to make it right. Hand tight works every time and I have never had a leak when just using my hand. There is never a 3/4 or 1 1/2 turns I have to get it to. It's hand tight and not straining to get it to that point. The concept is simple, the application is another story.
I've never been able to remove one by hand though. They seem to magically tighten.
I've never been able to remove one by hand though. They seem to magically tighten.
#17
My point is I have never had to tighten them with a wrench to make it right. Hand tight works every time and I have never had a leak when just using my hand. There is never a 3/4 or 1 1/2 turns I have to get it to. It's hand tight and not straining to get it to that point. The concept is simple, the application is another story.
I've never been able to remove one by hand though. They seem to magically tighten.
I've never been able to remove one by hand though. They seem to magically tighten.
No magic involved. The seal swells on contact with oil ... that's exactly why you never use a wrench to tighten it. A fingertip dipped in the old oil and run about the new seal provides enough lube to tighten it plenty using just your hand ... even my little girl is strong enough and has never left me leaking. That said ... I've seldom needed to use a wrench to remove one I've installed either ... never had a leaker in 20 years. Your mileage may vary, naturally. But if you tighten it too much before it has a chance to swell, the swelling will likely increase the chance of a leak, doncha think, by robbing the seal of elasticity?
#20
Friend just related a similar story
he used a newer oil pump [high volume] off a recently rebuilt engine
Rather than measure bypass pressure, he opted to just go ahead and add some washers to the relief spring.
Hmmmm now that I think about it I wonder if he put them on the inner end, which could be a disaster, because the spring has to enter the plunger and reside deep inside the plunger cavity.
Anyhoo, he says he put in MAYBE 1/8" of spacer washers and then upon starting the engine, the OP shot up immediately [mechanical gage hooked by plastic tubing to OP port near block casting ID] jumped to 100 PSI... and blew the filter seal out.
Don't mess with the oil pump relief spring unless you know what you are doing.
It's really easy to fabricate a blockoff plate to cover the oil pump's output zone, thread it for 1/8 NPT, attach a pressure gage, and bench test the pump to see exactly what pressure the relief valve opens at.
he used a newer oil pump [high volume] off a recently rebuilt engine
Rather than measure bypass pressure, he opted to just go ahead and add some washers to the relief spring.
Hmmmm now that I think about it I wonder if he put them on the inner end, which could be a disaster, because the spring has to enter the plunger and reside deep inside the plunger cavity.
Anyhoo, he says he put in MAYBE 1/8" of spacer washers and then upon starting the engine, the OP shot up immediately [mechanical gage hooked by plastic tubing to OP port near block casting ID] jumped to 100 PSI... and blew the filter seal out.
Don't mess with the oil pump relief spring unless you know what you are doing.
It's really easy to fabricate a blockoff plate to cover the oil pump's output zone, thread it for 1/8 NPT, attach a pressure gage, and bench test the pump to see exactly what pressure the relief valve opens at.
#21
story continues here
friend's friend says maybe a spun bearing?
I say NOTHING inside the engine can cause excess pressure.
ONLY the pressure relief valve controls the pressure.
So, it is malfunctioning or has been modified into improper operation.
His engine is coming back out today for pump inspection.
As of Sunday AM, he says he put a known working OP into the engine and observed oil at the sender hole and to the rockers while priming the pump. He promised to save the bad pump for me unchanged so I can see what the hell its problem is.
film at 11:00
friend's friend says maybe a spun bearing?
I say NOTHING inside the engine can cause excess pressure.
ONLY the pressure relief valve controls the pressure.
So, it is malfunctioning or has been modified into improper operation.
His engine is coming back out today for pump inspection.
As of Sunday AM, he says he put a known working OP into the engine and observed oil at the sender hole and to the rockers while priming the pump. He promised to save the bad pump for me unchanged so I can see what the hell its problem is.
film at 11:00
Last edited by Octania; April 20th, 2014 at 07:33 AM.
#22
im going with a spun cam bearing blocking the oil galley I just bought a 71 toronado for the motor I will be parting it out I pick it up this weekend thanks everyone for the assistance chris
#23
But that shouldn't cause this problem.
The oil pump has a relief valve that limits the pressure it can put out, and no matter where the system is blocked, it should not be able to put out more than that set pressure.
- Eric
The oil pump has a relief valve that limits the pressure it can put out, and no matter where the system is blocked, it should not be able to put out more than that set pressure.
- Eric
#24
EXACTLY.
My test of the pump will start with fabricating a BLOCKOFF PLATE to cover the output channel... with a gage fitting in it, to measure pressure.
Then bench test it with a drill to see what pressure the relief valve opens at.
My test of the pump will start with fabricating a BLOCKOFF PLATE to cover the output channel... with a gage fitting in it, to measure pressure.
Then bench test it with a drill to see what pressure the relief valve opens at.
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