Newbie Cutlass Convertible
Newbie Cutlass Convertible
I am contemplating purchasing a 1972 cutlass convertible that has 442 emblems on it. I believe a 1972 442 is not a real 442 that real 442's ended in 1971. Can yall please educate me. Thanks
1971 was the last year the 442 was it's own model. In 1972 the 442 became an option package on the Cutlass. The basic 442 option can only be verified if you have original documentation, but things like W30 and 455 are shown in the VIN.
Whether that disqualifies it as a "real" 442 is for someone else to debate lol
Whether that disqualifies it as a "real" 442 is for someone else to debate lol
1971 was the last year the 442 was it's own model. In 1972 the 442 became an option package on the Cutlass. The basic 442 option can only be verified if you have original documentation, but things like W30 and 455 are shown in the VIN.
Whether that disqualifies it as a "real" 442 is for someone else to debate lol
Whether that disqualifies it as a "real" 442 is for someone else to debate lol
Conversely, 1972 may be considered a good year because it was the first year GM designated an engine code in the VIN. So, while it's more difficult to authenticate it as a 4-4-2 (in fact, just about impossible absent paperwork) it's much easier to determine what engine the car was born with -- the code is right there in the fifth position of the VIN.
Welcome Sleeton13,
Do you know where the trouble spots are as far as rust/rot?
Even a Phoenix car can have frame, cowl & trunk rot.
Accident damage is generally easy to spot.
If you can get its history and paperwork that's a plus.
Post the VIN and fisher body cowl tag. Well decipher it.
Snap a pic of the engine blocks alpha numeric numbers above the water pump below the front of the intake.
Do you know where the trouble spots are as far as rust/rot?
Even a Phoenix car can have frame, cowl & trunk rot.
Accident damage is generally easy to spot.
If you can get its history and paperwork that's a plus.
Post the VIN and fisher body cowl tag. Well decipher it.
Snap a pic of the engine blocks alpha numeric numbers above the water pump below the front of the intake.
Engine codes for '72:
H -- 350 2 BBL 160 HP
J -- 350 2 BBL 175 HP (dual exh.)
K -- 350 4 BBL 180 HP
M -- 350 4 BBL 200 HP (dual exh.)
U -- 455 4 BBL 250 HP (dual exh. auto trans)
V -- 455 4 BBL 270 HP (dual exh. manual trans)
X -- 455 4 BBL 300 HP (W-30)
H -- 350 2 BBL 160 HP
J -- 350 2 BBL 175 HP (dual exh.)
K -- 350 4 BBL 180 HP
M -- 350 4 BBL 200 HP (dual exh.)
U -- 455 4 BBL 250 HP (dual exh. auto trans)
V -- 455 4 BBL 270 HP (dual exh. manual trans)
X -- 455 4 BBL 300 HP (W-30)
Welcome Sleeton13,
Do you know where the trouble spots are as far as rust/rot?
Even a Phoenix car can have frame, cowl & trunk rot.
Accident damage is generally easy to spot.
If you can get its history and paperwork that's a plus.
Post the VIN and fisher body cowl tag. Well decipher it.
Snap a pic of the engine blocks alpha numeric numbers above the water pump below the front of the intake.
Do you know where the trouble spots are as far as rust/rot?
Even a Phoenix car can have frame, cowl & trunk rot.
Accident damage is generally easy to spot.
If you can get its history and paperwork that's a plus.
Post the VIN and fisher body cowl tag. Well decipher it.
Snap a pic of the engine blocks alpha numeric numbers above the water pump below the front of the intake.
I know its not real clear but this is what the owner sent me, it is a pic of the cowl tag
Well, that's tough to read. I get a 1972 Cutlass Supreme convertible built in Lansing. Looks like an 03C (third week of March 1972) build date. Trim code 979 is Sienna interior. A51 is bucket seats. Paint code looks like 63 which would be Saddle Bronze. The convertible top appears to be T for Covert Beige. Unfortunately nothing on the cowl tag will tell you if this is a W29 car or not. Photos of the whole car would help, but may not be conclusive.
Well, that's tough to read. I get a 1972 Cutlass Supreme convertible built in Lansing. Looks like an 03C (third week of March 1972) build date. Trim code 979 is Sienna interior. A51 is bucket seats. Paint code looks like 63 which would be Saddle Bronze. The convertible top appears to be T for Covert Beige. Unfortunately nothing on the cowl tag will tell you if this is a W29 car or not. Photos of the whole car would help, but may not be conclusive.
Joe, what does the designation of W29 mean?
Well, that's tough to read. I get a 1972 Cutlass Supreme convertible built in Lansing. Looks like an 03C (third week of March 1972) build date. Trim code 979 is Sienna interior. A51 is bucket seats. Paint code looks like 63 which would be Saddle Bronze. The convertible top appears to be T for Covert Beige. Unfortunately nothing on the cowl tag will tell you if this is a W29 car or not. Photos of the whole car would help, but may not be conclusive.
Joe
here are a few pictures of the car the owner sent me
RPO W29 is the 442 option for 1972. This car appears to be a real 442, as it does not have the Cutlass Supreme rocker trim or other trim parts that people usually forget to remove when they clone one into a 442. It also has the correct thin side stripes as opposed to the W30-only wide stripes that everyone feels they need to paint on now. Cool car, congrats.
Good-lookin' car. Lower driver's door/rocker and lower front fender adjacent look problematic, though. I would get it on a lift and do a forensic inspection for rust before making any deals.
BTW, what is the letter in the 5th position of the VIN?
BTW, what is the letter in the 5th position of the VIN?
Unfortunately I cannot read the fifth letter over on that tag
You may wish to find out. It could have a significant effect on the value of the car. It wouldn't be on the cowl tag, it would be in the 5th position of the actual VIN.
Last edited by BangScreech4-4-2; Dec 30, 2024 at 08:49 AM.
Do you have a copy of the registration. That will have the VIN on it? Is the VIN on that sticker on the windshield?
The bumper suggests a H code (2 bbl carb) or K code (4 bbl) 350ci/TH350 car. The hood was likely added by a previous owner. Does it have the correct air cleaner that mated to the hood???
You may want to look the car over well before doing anything to assess overall condition/structural integrity.
I see plenty of tel-tail rot which could lead to bigger structural problems.
Take a good look at the frame and where the body mounts to it, the floors, floor support structures, and cowl/dash under that wide stainless trim under the wipers.
This baby could be pretty rotten and have some safety issues.
Don't mean to pee on your parade. The reality is what it is with a non desert 50+ year old Olds A body vert. Still a desirable car & color to restore or just drive as long as its solid in the prone areas. If its been in Texas somewhat away from the coast it stands a good chance at being OK and just needing some outer sheet metal.
The bumper suggests a H code (2 bbl carb) or K code (4 bbl) 350ci/TH350 car. The hood was likely added by a previous owner. Does it have the correct air cleaner that mated to the hood???
You may want to look the car over well before doing anything to assess overall condition/structural integrity.
I see plenty of tel-tail rot which could lead to bigger structural problems.
Take a good look at the frame and where the body mounts to it, the floors, floor support structures, and cowl/dash under that wide stainless trim under the wipers.
This baby could be pretty rotten and have some safety issues.
Don't mean to pee on your parade. The reality is what it is with a non desert 50+ year old Olds A body vert. Still a desirable car & color to restore or just drive as long as its solid in the prone areas. If its been in Texas somewhat away from the coast it stands a good chance at being OK and just needing some outer sheet metal.
As others mentioned, in 1972, the 442 is an appearance package.
I also happen to own a Saddle Bronze 72. I found my broadcast card behind the seat. See this link
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...w-29-a-174945/
Scott, The Saddle Bronze Cutlass in question changed hands between multiple Oldsmobile enthusiasts in Texas.
As others mentioned, in 1972, the 442 is an appearance package.
I also happen to own a Saddle Bronze 72. I found my broadcast card behind the seat. See this link
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...w-29-a-174945/
As others mentioned, in 1972, the 442 is an appearance package.
I also happen to own a Saddle Bronze 72. I found my broadcast card behind the seat. See this link
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...w-29-a-174945/
Texas442
Based on what you mentions "The Saddle Bronze Cutlass in question changed hands between multiple Oldsmobile enthusiasts in Texas" are you familiar with this specific car?
Do you have a copy of the registration. That will have the VIN on it? Is the VIN on that sticker on the windshield?
The bumper suggests a H code (2 bbl carb) or K code (4 bbl) 350ci/TH350 car. The hood was likely added by a previous owner. Does it have the correct air cleaner that mated to the hood???
You may want to look the car over well before doing anything to assess overall condition/structural integrity.
I see plenty of tel-tail rot which could lead to bigger structural problems.
Take a good look at the frame and where the body mounts to it, the floors, floor support structures, and cowl/dash under that wide stainless trim under the wipers.
This baby could be pretty rotten and have some safety issues.
Don't mean to pee on your parade. The reality is what it is with a non desert 50+ year old Olds A body vert. Still a desirable car & color to restore or just drive as long as its solid in the prone areas. If its been in Texas somewhat away from the coast it stands a good chance at being OK and just needing some outer sheet metal.
The bumper suggests a H code (2 bbl carb) or K code (4 bbl) 350ci/TH350 car. The hood was likely added by a previous owner. Does it have the correct air cleaner that mated to the hood???
You may want to look the car over well before doing anything to assess overall condition/structural integrity.
I see plenty of tel-tail rot which could lead to bigger structural problems.
Take a good look at the frame and where the body mounts to it, the floors, floor support structures, and cowl/dash under that wide stainless trim under the wipers.
This baby could be pretty rotten and have some safety issues.
Don't mean to pee on your parade. The reality is what it is with a non desert 50+ year old Olds A body vert. Still a desirable car & color to restore or just drive as long as its solid in the prone areas. If its been in Texas somewhat away from the coast it stands a good chance at being OK and just needing some outer sheet metal.
Will do I plan on digging into the car more before I make a commitment to purchasing the car. I appreciate everyone's input to assist me with guidance before I make a wrong decision.

It should be pretty easy to get the VIN. No digging required.
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