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New pics...

Old Oct 14, 2018 | 02:47 PM
  #1  
72455's Avatar
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1972 U code Supreme
 
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From: Chesapeake, VA
New pics...

Thought I would share some updated pics of my 72 Cutlass Supreme engine and interior...








Last edited by 72455; Oct 14, 2018 at 02:51 PM.
Old Oct 14, 2018 | 02:51 PM
  #2  
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Interesting thread.
Old Oct 14, 2018 | 02:54 PM
  #3  
72455's Avatar
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1972 U code Supreme
 
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Originally Posted by redoldsman
Interesting thread.
Lol...you may have caught me tapping the submit button by accident😀 Check it again...

​​​​
Old Oct 14, 2018 | 02:56 PM
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I thought that is probably what it was but just had to pull your chain a little. Car looks very nice.
Old Oct 14, 2018 | 06:47 PM
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Hmm. PCV valve T-eed into the brake booster vacuum line. I wonder why someone did that?
Old Oct 14, 2018 | 07:11 PM
  #6  
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1972 U code Supreme
 
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Originally Posted by Fun71
Hmm. PCV valve T-eed into the brake booster vacuum line. I wonder why someone did that?
I dunno but I started this thread https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-part-two.html
a while back and no one seemed to mention it was an issue. Did I miss something?
Old Oct 14, 2018 | 07:30 PM
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Wow, you had so much incorrect information being corrected in that thread it's no wonder no one noticed the PCV connection.
It will work the way it is currently, but it's not the way is should be connected.
Old Oct 14, 2018 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Fun71
Hmm. PCV valve T-eed into the brake booster vacuum line. I wonder why someone did that?
Originally Posted by 72455
I dunno but I started this thread https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-part-two.html
a while back and no one seemed to mention it was an issue. Did I miss something?
In your previous thread, you said this:
Originally Posted by 72455
My friend said to ditch the oil breather cap and use another pcv valve, tie it into the other one and run that to intake vacuum. He also said to run the brake booster vacuum by itself into the carb.
Your friend is right, and Fun71 is correct to point it out. The brake booster should be connected to its own port on the back of the carburetor, and the PCV is connected to a separate port. That's the way it was set up when the car left the factory. It's not a performance issue or better mileage issue, it's a safety issue. The brakes are a safety system. You want there to be as few ways as possible for there to be vacuum loss by the booster. The more tees and fittings and other devices connected to the same vacuum line as the booster, the more ways the booster can fail. In your setup, there are three new ways the booster can fail that weren't there when the car left the factory. There is a tee in the line that wasn't there before, there is a hose running off that tee to the PCV, and there is the PCV itself. Failure by any one of those three, as remote as the possibility might be, would fail the booster and cause a loss of braking ability.

The brake booster line didn't have a plastic loom on it, either, when it left the factory. That may look cool, but it prevents easy observation of the condition of that vacuum line. It's one thing to put a loom on a vacuum line that controls the vent doors in the heating system or that connects to the cruise control. Failure of either of those is an inconvenience but not a safety issue. It's another thing to put a loom on the brake booster vacuum hose.
Old Oct 14, 2018 | 07:48 PM
  #9  
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1972 U code Supreme
 
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Originally Posted by jaunty75
In your previous thread, you said this:
Your friend is right, and Fun71 is correct to point it out. The brake booster should be connected to its own port on the back of the carburetor, and the PCV is connected to a separate port. That's the way it was set up when the car left the factory. It's not a performance issue or better mileage issue, it's a safety issue. The brakes are a safety system. You want there to be as few ways as possible for there to be vacuum loss by the booster. The more tees and fittings and other devices connected to the same vacuum line as the booster, the more ways the booster can fail. In your setup, there are three new ways the booster can fail that weren't there when the car left the factory. There is a tee in the line that wasn't there before, there is a hose running off that tee to the PCV, and there is the PCV itself. Failure by any one of those three, as remote as the possibility might be, would fail the booster and cause a loss of braking ability.

The brake booster line didn't have a plastic loom on it, either, when it left the factory. That may look cool, but it prevents easy observation of the condition of that vacuum line. It's one thing to put a loom on a vacuum line that controls the vent doors in the heating system or that connects to the cruise control. Failure of either of those is an inconvenience but not a safety issue. It's another thing to put a loom on the brake booster vacuum hose.
Got it and thanks for the info. I'll take care of it ASAP. I think there is a vacuum port in the front of the carb. Can I run my pcv hose to that?
Old Oct 14, 2018 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 72455
Got it and thanks for the info. I'll take care of it ASAP. I think there is a vacuum port in the front of the carb. Can I run my pcv hose to that?
Yes, as long as it's down low on the carburetor. Or you can run it to a port on the intake manifold. You want manifold vacuum (not ported vacuum). The PCV vacuum line is typically relatively large inside diameter, and you want a port that matches that size hose. Don't use a hose size reducer so you can use a smaller diameter port as the vacuum capacity isn't as large, and the PCV needs a good vacuum.

I have found this video to be useful. As I recall, you don't have a Quadrajet on your engine, but this would probably still be useful for you to watch as he explains the purpose of all the vacuum ports on a Quadrajet, and it's likely applicable to most replacements. He speaks slowly, and sometimes so slowly that you want to yell at the computer screen, but it's still worth watching.


Last edited by jaunty75; Oct 14, 2018 at 08:19 PM.
Old Oct 15, 2018 | 06:48 PM
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you want an original 4 spoke rallye steering wheel for it? I got a pretty nice one for $195.00 including the hub and center cap. plus shipping .
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