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need some insite on 74 h/o

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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 09:04 PM
  #1  
cherokeepeople's Avatar
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need some insite on 74 h/o

kindof out of the blue ran across a 74 h/o that the guy is looking to part with.looking for a value of it.i looked at it and it aint pretty.no motor or trans.was originally a 350.does have all emblems hood, swivel buckets and a dual gate shifter.from what i understand they didn't have a dual gate in 74 but it does have one.BUT this has the roof rust around back windows and its thru rust not surface rust,both 1/4's need replacing and both grilles are bad.does have clear title though.he wants me to shoot him a price but i think if i shoot him 3 to 400 bucks he might get pissed,but i'm thinking thats about what its worth.
Old Aug 4, 2015 | 09:34 PM
  #2  
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There may be someone here who is an expert in these '73-'76 cars, but, as a non-expert, I think your pricing is about right.

Considering the values of these cars in good condition, and the description you gave of this one, I'd say it's less than a parts car.

- Eric
Old Aug 5, 2015 | 12:13 AM
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I agree. It sounds as though even if you get it for $300-400, you're likely to spend more on the build than the car will be worth when you're done. It's unfortunate, because I think the colonnade cars are cool, but the value just isn't there.
Old Aug 5, 2015 | 04:13 AM
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Pics would help. big block cars came with a dual gate and are getting more valuable. I have seen a few go in the mid 30s.
Old Aug 5, 2015 | 05:44 AM
  #5  
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If the only thing missing is the engine its worth 1000,1500. If thats the only thing missing? If the frame floors trunk dash etc is rot free Ill stick with that figure. Obviously go down from there. I consider what would I get if I parted this car out. That could be 2K worth of parts.
Low ball him with 500 and then decide what your upper limit is. What are your plans for it? Parts or Restore. It could be a good foundation for a restoration if its solid. Parts are becoming available in the reproduction market and they are the next cars to become popular for collectors. They are for me.
Old Aug 5, 2015 | 05:55 AM
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well the cars over 100 miles from me,so i also have the cost of going to get it.i might be going that way today for work ,if so i will get some pics.gonna see if i can get the vin also.
Old Aug 5, 2015 | 06:05 AM
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engine and trans gone for sure.guy said the guy he got it from blew it up at least 3 times.said when he got it he put a 350 olds in it for awhile,took it out and put it in a diesel car and put a 383 chevy in it.then pulled it yrs ago for his kids nova.thinks its been setting for close to 10 yrs.
Old Aug 5, 2015 | 06:05 AM
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I've heard some 350 owners when they originally bought the cars had the dealer put in a dual gate, but you are correct, only the W30 455's were optioned with the dual gate.

I agree with droldsmorland, $1000 to possibly $1500 tops, way tops... $500 would be a good starting price. Also as mentioned, depends on what you want to do with the car. I'd say only buy it if you "really" love it, a good true restoration based on your description of the car would probably equal or exceed the cars value quickly. I have a 74 W30, I love it, but it's not really in demand yet... small pockets of pace car guys' colonnade guys, will get excited for them for purchase, perhaps a bit more, but I think it makes for a slim market now.
Old Aug 5, 2015 | 07:29 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by 1969Hurst
I've heard some 350 owners when they originally bought the cars had the dealer put in a dual gate, but you are correct, only the W30 455's were optioned with the dual gate.
Where is that documented? This 1974 H/O order form shows the dual gate was standard equipment on all 1974 H/Os. no matter which engine was selected.



This zone manager memo says the same thing:



Old Aug 5, 2015 | 09:23 AM
  #10  
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Y77 cars did NOT get D/G standard. It was on the optional equipment list same as 442 but you'd have paid extra for it.


The 1974 car is the most misunderstood of the Hurst conversions. All because of California and their damn emissions laws. That is the reason the 350 appearance package car was produced- CA was a prime market for such a car, but the 455 wasn't CA emissions-certified in the 1974 A-body car. So, to sell H/O in California, they had to be 350-equipped as noted on p3 of Mr Venti's letter.


Likewise all California-bound 1974 Delta 88s were 455s, because the 350 wasn't CA emissions-certified in the B car.


Wacky? Yes. Your friendly gummink at work. Interesting that 1974 was also the year of the deep black brittle experiment of seat belt/starter interlocks that was another epic fail. Back then loud public opinion convinced the NHTSA they'd done a bonehead thing and the interlock requirement was rescinded. I doubt you could raise enough hell to accomplish that now.
Old Aug 5, 2015 | 11:30 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by rocketraider
Y77 cars did NOT get D/G standard. It was on the optional equipment list same as 442 but you'd have paid extra for it.
Joe's paperwork would seem to indicate otherwise.
Old Aug 5, 2015 | 01:14 PM
  #12  
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I was referring to the W30 & Y77 option packages on the attached, Dual Gate only listed under W30.... W30 was the 'Appearance & Performance' package where Y77 was only the 'Appearance' package, I'll post some window sticker examples next.
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Old Aug 5, 2015 | 01:31 PM
  #13  
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Couple of more items I've referred to for stating that....

1st attachment is a 1974 W30 Window Sticker, note the "Hurst/Olds Appearance & Performance PKG", about 1/2 way through the 'Hurst Shifter' is listed.

2nd attachment is a 1974 Y77 350 Window Sticker, note the "Hurst/Olds Appearance Package", no shifter listed in the Appearance only package.
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Old Aug 5, 2015 | 05:15 PM
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Apples to apples i have a basic idea what the cost would be to build your car. Reading your post seems to be the beginning of a long dedication of tedious work which you may or may not enjoy. That is if you have the funds to do it yourself or have other people to do the work for you. With that said I built my car just a 73 442 455 4 speed non hurst addition, paid 1500 for the car. And have about 16 G's with purchase over a span of 10 years working on it myself. I probably saved myself 2-3 grand by researching parts and not purchasing everything at once. luckily if I had to sell I might be able to get out what I have in it. But not really worth more than that. Your best bet would be to see if you can pick it up for 500 and part it out, you would be able to make money and make several folks of the colonnade family very happy! Hope this helps. Oh, and mine had the engine and trans in it when I purchased it.
Sean
Old Aug 5, 2015 | 08:06 PM
  #15  
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well got a better look at it today.and i musta been on crack monday or still hungover from the weekend.it does not have a dual gate.and it has a swiss cheese top.it has more rust holes then bonnie and clydes car had bullet holes.one of em i could damn near get my fist in.soooo i think i'm gonna shoot him 3-4 hundred.at that i should be able to maybe make a little money parting it out.
Old Aug 5, 2015 | 09:14 PM
  #16  
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Now yer talkin'.

- Eric
Old Aug 5, 2015 | 09:40 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by cherokeepeople
... at that i should be able to maybe make a little money parting it out.
Sad but true.
Old Aug 6, 2015 | 07:30 AM
  #18  
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If you can get the VIN and data plate info, run those thru the H/OCA and see if this was possibly a Festival car used at the 1974 Indy 500. They have the VINs of all those and who used them.


Hood in good shape, you'd make your money back off that if you get it for under $400. It's common to 74-5 Hurst and 442.


Swivel buckets are common to all 73-5 A-body plus GP and Monte Carlo and can make you money. Just aggravating to ship.


Stainless top outline trim, the galvanized outer window fillers and plastic inner window fillers always in demand. Likewise the Hurst-specific quarter windows with the glass date code midway rather than at the lower forward edge.


I own a Y77 and have a soft spot for them but bottom line, except for the Hurst appearance conversion, they're a Cutlass. The W30 is what all of them should have been, but you can thank California.

Last edited by rocketraider; Aug 6, 2015 at 07:33 AM.
Old Aug 6, 2015 | 02:29 PM
  #19  
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Interesting that the info Joe posted shows the W-30 having H70-15 tires and the Y-77 having G70-14s.
Old Aug 6, 2015 | 02:53 PM
  #20  
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rocketraider

Are the 73 H/O hoods the same as the 74/75? If not what is the difference? Also is the 73 Rally Pac guage exclusive to 73 or is it the same as other years?

Don W
Old Aug 7, 2015 | 10:38 AM
  #21  
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The 73 hood louver is a separate piece bolted onto the hood panel. 74-75 louvers are actually stamped thru the hood with a trash screen on underside. They're not functional as far as air induction. They let hot air out and tend to let water in... all over yer freshly detailed engine!


The Rallye Pacs are weird. All 73 RP had the gages around the perimeter of the dial face and used a specific font for letters/ numbers. 74-77 RP had three 90 deg sweep gages oriented horizontally on the dial face (if that makes sense).


However- my 74 Y77's original speedometer and fuel gage have the same font as 73 speedometer & gages. 1974 W30 have a different font like the 75-later cars.
Old Aug 7, 2015 | 01:54 PM
  #22  
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Thanks for the info rocketraider.

Don W
Old Aug 7, 2015 | 01:57 PM
  #23  
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I know the swivel buckets were 73-76, not just 73-75. Cool info on the hood.

I imagine the 73-77 rallye pacs could be interchangeable from 73-77? If font isn't a factor, aren't they all the same dash and harness connectors?
Old Aug 10, 2015 | 08:33 AM
  #24  
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Allan, this is GM we're talking about here...


Not sure if the pin configuration is the same on the different years Rallye Pacs. It IS different between gauge and non-gauge cars. I have a 73 RP I pulled out of a Cutlass Supreme a good 15 years ago but have always been antsy about putting it in my car, as the font is 73 (matches my speedo though!) and I have horrors of the connector pins pulling out of the PC board.


Now, if it were a Cutlass (it is, but...) I'd think more about the RP. As it is, I think I'd like to have the correct stuff in it for the model year- which would entail changing out my speedometer.
Old Aug 10, 2015 | 04:14 PM
  #25  
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Yup, I know about the pin configuration changes. Same story for the 68-72 cars going from idiot lights to RPs. All those models show how to re-pin the connector from idiot to RP on the electrical fold out page of their respective CSMs. FWIW I didn't have to do that because I had a factory conversion connector that made the left side RP plug n play. Very handy and very unique. I've never seen another one like it.
Old Aug 10, 2015 | 04:21 PM
  #26  
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Just found these pictures of the 'idiot proof' RP conversion adapter. The small lead is the one that goes to the fasten seat belts pod on the dash. This one is specifically for 72 but would also work on 70/71

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File Type: jpg
IMG_2440.JPG (73.7 KB, 4 views)
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