When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Here are the 1969 factory cam specs - compare them for yourself. That cam looks to be very similar to the 393859 cam used in the manual trans 442 motors (not the W-30 motors), it just looks like it's advanced 6 or 8 deg. Smooth idle, good vacuum for power brakes and A/C. Not even close to a lumpy cam.
Here are the 1969 factory cam specs - compare them for yourself. That cam looks to be very similar to the 393859 cam used in the manual trans 442 motors (not the W-30 motors), it just looks like it's advanced 6 or 8 deg. Smooth idle, good vacuum for power brakes and A/C. Not even close to a lumpy cam.
So a pretty basic cam. I should tell the shop to get a new cam then since the goal is low end power.
Any suggestions for a cam that would be more aggressive but keeping low end power/torque? If this is good for that, I'll keep it, but I don't want to replace it because it leaves me wanting more.
Any suggestions for a cam that would be more aggressive but keeping low end power/torque? If this is good for that, I'll keep it, but I don't want to replace it because it leaves me wanting more.
Keep it, if you want low rpm power then it will fill-your needs..if your looking for lower rpm grunt, great street manners then keep it. lumpy cams come at a price..need lower rear gears higher torque converter or 4 speed etc to handle them or I-should say-effectively utilize them as designed.
that's the reassurance I needed. Hopefully I'll get some impressive numbers on the dyno.
Probably not. The torque peak will be below where the dyno pulls typically start. That's not a top end cam. Dyno numbers are for bragging rights. They don't reflect driveabilitiy.
Probably not. The torque peak will be below where the dyno pulls typically start. That's not a top end cam. Dyno numbers are for bragging rights. They don't reflect driveabilitiy.
Well the power is kinda why I got the 455... The 330 was a good cruiser, but I want a tire shreading toy that can do well in the quarter mile while also being able to go on date night.
Well the power is kinda why I got the 455... The 330 was a good cruiser, but I want a tire shreading toy that can do well in the quarter mile while also being able to go on date night.
Do you want a dyno HP number for bragging rights or low end torque? That cam will give you the latter. How it performs in the quarter will depend on gears and traction. Like I said, talk to Mark.
Probably not. The torque peak will be below where the dyno pulls typically start. That's not a top end cam. Dyno numbers are for bragging rights. They don't reflect driveabilitiy.
Yes, the dyno sheet wont reveal the torque peaks, but it will produce great low rpm torque, which is what he's actually looking for. He wants a good cruiser that can smoke the tires whenever he wants it to.
While I have y'all. Can I reuse my 330s flywheel, or should I use the 455 flywheel that was already on the boat motor (the flywheel meant for a manual trans)?
In my experience, it’s almost impossible to hurt the low end torque of a 455. Steer the front wheels with the steering wheel, steer the rear tires with the throttle!
Assuming you have a decent converter, you could easily get a cam better suited to the sound you desire, with the performance your want.
Talk to Mark, he would know far more than probably 90% of us.
Probably not. The torque peak will be below where the dyno pulls typically start. That's not a top end cam. Dyno numbers are for bragging rights. They don't reflect driveabilitiy.
AMEN!!! Thank you for posting that. People and their damn dyno numbers.
Going from a 330 to a fresh 455??🤯👍 I bet you will be more than happy. That extra 125 cubes will be so worth it. Just my two cents. Day and night.
AMEN!!! Thank you for posting that. People and their damn dyno numbers.
Going from a 330 to a fresh 455??🤯👍 I bet you will be more than happy. That extra 125 cubes will be so worth it. Just my two cents. Day and night.
Originally Posted by 66SportCoupe
The boat engines typically use a manual flywheel. Won't work with an automatic.
God damn it. I'm tired of this thing nickel and diming me. I'm already 5k deep into this motor. Will it not bolt up to the torque converter or is there something else.
God damn it. I'm tired of this thing nickel and diming me. I'm already 5k deep into this motor. Will it not bolt up to the torque converter or is there something else.
Flexplate is cheap compared to a flywheel. SFI rated ones are $130 - $140.
PS: I am kind of in the same "boat" as you. I have a 66 Sport Wagon with a factory 340 4 barrel motor. It's not perfect but it only has 70k on it. I so so want to 455 that car.
just another hundred lol. I saw prices everywhere, $50-250. I'm not sure which one to get at this point.
I was lead to believe everything would swap over from my small block, but that's not true it seems
Flywheels are made for clutches to mount to, flexplates are made for torque converters to mount to. 1967 and earlier crankshafts are forged, and have a different bolt pattern than the 68 and up cast cranks, so they dont interchange.
Flywheels are made for clutches to mount to, flexplates are made for torque converters to mount to. 1967 and earlier crankshafts are forged, and have a different bolt pattern than the 68 and up cast cranks, so they dont interchange.
I know someone has gone low-mid 12's with that cam (has headers/intake/ported heads). My uncle had that cam in a '73 442 with A/C, with a posi 2.73 rear, it would fry the tires at will, it ran high 13's in the 1/4 mile at 4200 lb on Radial T/A's. It idles like a stock 455, not really much of any lope. Are there better options? yeah... will it work? Yep. Really depends on your compression ratio too.
I know someone has gone low-mid 12's with that cam (has headers/intake/ported heads). My uncle had that cam in a '73 442 with A/C, with a posi 2.73 rear, it would fry the tires at will, it ran high 13's in the 1/4 mile at 4200 lb on Radial T/A's. It idles like a stock 455, not really much of any lope. Are there better options? yeah... will it work? Yep. Really depends on your compression ratio too.
Compression will be about 9 to 9 and 1/2, I'm hoping the 355 gears and a car wane close to 3,000 lb will make up for it then
1. Build a fun street car and drive it on the street.
2. Build a race car and race it on the track.
3. Build a race car so you can rep all that shizz, but never take it on the track and suffer for it just to have the mean idle lope and bragging rights while you limp around with a dog on the streets.
I have a 67 442. Previous owner put a "w-30" cam in it. It has 3.08 gears. The car is a dog until 4500 rpm. This will be remedied soon.