need help with 1969 455 heat riser
need help with 1969 455 heat riser
after many many years i am ditching my headers and restoring my car back with my original manifolds i just had some cracks silicon/bronze welded and they came out nice i also spent 2 days getting the rusted heat riser out ,that was a pain
I need help with someone that may have a pic of how the new riser is installed i don't know what position the counterweight/spring need to be in and i couldnt use my old one as a reference because it was broken
I am going to miss the sound of the headers but they were ALWAYS IN THE WAY of something when working on the car also i am not going to miss the underhood heat generated by them
thanks
I need help with someone that may have a pic of how the new riser is installed i don't know what position the counterweight/spring need to be in and i couldnt use my old one as a reference because it was broken
I am going to miss the sound of the headers but they were ALWAYS IN THE WAY of something when working on the car also i am not going to miss the underhood heat generated by them
thanks
LMK if this is the pic you need or something else.
while on topic of W Z one of my mating surfaces has some pitting, should I just use the gaskets availible for them or can/should I try to have the mating surfaces resurfaced and if resurfaced do I need to worry about how much material is removed like when milling heads and the intake needs to be milled as well at some point ?
while on topic of W Z one of my mating surfaces has some pitting, should I just use the gaskets availible for them or can/should I try to have the mating surfaces resurfaced and if resurfaced do I need to worry about how much material is removed like when milling heads and the intake needs to be milled as well at some point ?
thanks, that pic looks good but is the butterfly valve closed and does it still have the tack welds on the shaft?? thats the 69 w right i cant see the whole part in the pic
you dont have a lot of material to mill them if you take maybe more than .020 your going to be almost flush with casting body... i think some pits are fine if you use the right gasket i have some fluffy carbon fiber ones with the metal in the middle made by percy's they say they are good for less than perfect surfaces
you dont have a lot of material to mill them if you take maybe more than .020 your going to be almost flush with casting body... i think some pits are fine if you use the right gasket i have some fluffy carbon fiber ones with the metal in the middle made by percy's they say they are good for less than perfect surfaces
thanks, that pic looks good but is the butterfly valve closed and does it still have the tack welds on the shaft?? thats the 69 w right i cant see the whole part in the pic
you dont have a lot of material to mill them if you take maybe more than .020 your going to be almost flush with casting body... i think some pits are fine if you use the right gasket i have some fluffy carbon fiber ones with the metal in the middle made by percy's they say they are good for less than perfect surfaces
you dont have a lot of material to mill them if you take maybe more than .020 your going to be almost flush with casting body... i think some pits are fine if you use the right gasket i have some fluffy carbon fiber ones with the metal in the middle made by percy's they say they are good for less than perfect surfaces
yes 69 W
IDK on the butterfly that flap has been removed that position is where the spring wants it to rest, ill try to snap another pic tomorrow to show the BF too.
I see what you mean now by there is not much material there to mill
pics below show a smooth spot on the mate surface (Z side) and a pitted spot W side.
unfortuntely the pics make it look much worse as even the good spot shows rough as well but you can see the amount of material before hitting the body..thanks for the info
good part

pitted part
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