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I'm in the process of installing a/c on my 67 442 and will be installing factory a/c vent ***** in each end of the dash. Because of the slanted and curved area it will be difficult to layout the hole for cutting. If someone has a dash with the ***** currently removed and would take a picture of the hole and give me the size or a pattern I will greatly appreciate it. James
It's on the dash frame, not the dash itself, as I am sure you know. I do not know if those cars used the same sheetmetal for AC vs non cars and the difference was only the presence of holes or if there were differences in contour and extra bracing.
Mine is not apart. Here is the best picture I can find. It APPEARS that the sheet metal is the same, and it attaches to just the sheet metal, and it will work. It looks like there is only one spot it can go. Dimension your AC ***** into an ellipse. Make a template. It appears that the amount of sheet metal at 9 oclock, 1:30, and 4:30 are the same width. You should be able to locate it. 9 oclock might be a bit thicker. There isn't any difference in the dash pads, so I hope it is the same frame.
It's on the dash frame, not the dash itself, as I am sure you know. I do not know if those cars used the same sheetmetal for AC vs non cars and the difference was only the presence of holes or if there were differences in contour and extra bracing.
Mine is not apart. Here is the best picture I can find. It APPEARS that the sheet metal is the same, and it attaches to just the sheet metal, and it will work. It looks like there is only one spot it can go. Dimension your AC ***** into an ellipse. Make a template. It appears that the amount of sheet metal at 9 oclock, 1:30, and 4:30 are the same width. You should be able to locate it. 9 oclock might be a bit thicker. There isn't any difference in the dash pads, so I hope it is the same frame.
Thanks Koda, at least that shows what an odd shape I'm dealing with. Looks like a horizontal tear drop with ears. It's not going to be easy from scratch, the studs on the bezel will not let me hold it in place to draw a pattern. My thoughts are to take a cardboard tube and miter it to fit the curve and angle and go from there. If I could find a pattern it would save me a ton of work.
I played around with making a templet today on the passenger side. First thing I realized is that the factory made a much larger hole than required looking at Koda's picture. It's almost as big as the outer edge of the bezel. I going to do my pattern with a smaller hole allowing some room for error.
Good picture showing location I found on internet.
When, i add the ac/ vent to no a/c cars I make a pattern out of manilla folder and tape it to the dash , allows for the curve and i sneak up on the fit , , just my 2 cents
Didn't get a chance to work on it today but did notice one weird thing. The point of the "tear" is not on the centerline of the tear drop adding more difficulty to making a pattern.
Got this far, now working on my nerves to make the cut. Made my templet from some thin aluminum that worked pretty good. The outer edge is same as the bezel and curved to fit the contour of dash. The plastic ball housing slips thru the ring from the inside.
I did the same thing on my 62 Starfire except I had the dash out of the car. There was a template engraved on the back side of the dash where the vent goes, made cutting the hole easy.
Got both sides done. It was a very tedious job to say the least. On the passenger you can remove the glove box and gain access to insert the ball housing from the back and tighten the nuts on the bezel studs. On the drivers side I looped a long ty-rap thru the ball and pulled the housing up in place and pulled the bezel up tight with a block of wood. With seat removed you can lay under dash and tighten nuts on studs. You need three arms and one triple jointed arm otherwise.
Thanks, when I finish I'll pass all my notes for you to get started on yours.
No thanks, I don't want to be handicapped by all that extra weight! You've already got an unfair advantage with that beastly 455, while I'm stuck with my paltry 400.
No thanks, I don't want to be handicapped by all that extra weight! You've already got an unfair advantage with that beastly 455, while I'm stuck with my paltry 400.
If you had a G 400, you'd have a point. The E 400 could hang out around 6k and the 455 had more lower end torque. He might beat you off the line, but I think you would win the quarter.
If you had a G 400, you'd have a point. The E 400 could hang out around 6k and the 455 had more lower end torque. He might beat you off the line, but I think you would win the quarter.
It would be interesting for sure, lots of factors like "add-ons", gears, etc.!
Thanks Koda, that was my goal. Here is another factory looking touch....
Spoiler
Installing factory A/C vents on a '67 442 can indeed be tricky due to the curved and slanted areas of the dash. To ensure accuracy, it's important to have a clear template or measurements. If someone has a dash with the vents currently removed and can provide a photo of the hole, along with the exact dimensions or a pattern, it would greatly help in making precise cuts. Meanwhile, you might consider using masking tape to outline the area and carefully measure before cutting to avoid any mistakes. Handling multiple academic tasks can be overwhelming for students. UKWritings provides writing services that offer tailored support for essays and dissertations, helping students meet their deadlines and maintain the quality of their academic work. You can find more information at https://ukwritings.com/custom-essay here. If you want to read reviews of that website then let me know, I will share those links too where you can read reviews of that website.
Thanks for the picture.
Last edited by CatherineBennett; Sep 18, 2024 at 04:15 AM.
You've already got an unfair advantage with that beastly 455, while I'm stuck with my paltry 400. 
