My 1971 REBUILD
My 1971 REBUILD
I have had my 1971 Olds Cutlass Convertible for 35 years! I am about to have the engine rebuilt and I am looking for information on the following:
-Suggestions for new 4 barrell carb and manifold
-headers and stainless exhaust system- best to use
-4 wheel disc brake conversion kits- who has the best?- what do you do with the original 14 in super sport wheels if you cannot use them anymore?
-who makes a 16 or 17 inch Olds super sport wheel?
The engine is not original and I just want to have it reliable! I do not have an open checkbook for this either!
Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Dave
-Suggestions for new 4 barrell carb and manifold
-headers and stainless exhaust system- best to use
-4 wheel disc brake conversion kits- who has the best?- what do you do with the original 14 in super sport wheels if you cannot use them anymore?
-who makes a 16 or 17 inch Olds super sport wheel?
The engine is not original and I just want to have it reliable! I do not have an open checkbook for this either!
Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Dave
Welcome. If total cost is a constraint for you, I suggest you rethink your priorities. The 17" Super STOCK replica wheels sold by Year One are about $1200 a set of four. Do you really need four wheel discs? The stock 10.75" front disc brakes will allow you to use your 14" SuperStock II wheels. Even 15x7 SSII wheels will be a fraction of the cost of the 17" wheels - and that doesn't even include the tires. One inexpensive upgrade for the rear brakes is the 11" drum brakes used on the 1973-77 cars. These will also clear 14" wheels. And frankly, I've seen far too many aftermarket disc brake conversions that stop worse than the OEM drums, primarily because the owner was completely clueless about brake sizing or proper matching of parts.
Since you don't have the original engine, what engine do you have? That will matter as far as headers, carb, etc.
Since you don't have the original engine, what engine do you have? That will matter as far as headers, carb, etc.
Since you don't have an open checkbook, I would suggest you first determine what intake manifold is currently installed on the engine. IMO, there is no need to change out an OEM (Oldsmobile) intake manifold unless the current intake manifold is toast - i.e. cracked, seriously warped beyond milling/shaving, etc., or the ports are completely caved in and/or rotted and beyond repair. Once you've determined what current intake manifold is on the engine, this will assist in determining 2 bbl or 4 bbl carburetor.
Do you know the manufacturer of the current 2 bbl carburetor? See if you can determine which 2 bbl carburetor is currently on the intake manifold - Rochester, Carter, etc.
The Performer is fine if you want it basically stock with a 72 spec 350 Qjet or a 625 Street Demon tuned to your motor. If you are increasing compression and cam, maybe look at the Performer RPM intake. I say either a 750 Street Demon, 750 Quickfuel Slayer or a custom tuned 800 cfm Qjet for a motor with any upgrades. For shorty headers either the Sanderson, Hedman or Thornton stainless. The Thornton shorties bolt up to stock replacement dual exhaust pipes. Either Hedman or Hooker for Ok fit and quality for full length. The Flowtech headers have thin flanges and rust quickly. The Ebay stainless full length headers are actually BBO headers so they fit but hang quite low. I am going to run them on my 350, my front sits quite high. I can get them cheaper shipped than painted Hedman or Hooker headers plus shipping.
If it is the stock 350, there should be a 7A by #1 and #8 spark plug. Do not use cast replacement pistons, they put compression pathetically low no matter what year 350. Piston choice depends on what heads you are using.
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