jerseymike

Hey all,

I'd like to get some ideas how others care for their cars as far as oil changes, tune ups and such.

For instance, for those who live in "winter climates" and put their cars to bed every winter, do you change your oil every spring or do you do it before you put it to bed for winter? Does the 3,000 mile rule fit your needs or usage. I guess with the sports car guys, you might be a little harder on your cars than owners like me w/ a land yacht.

Also as far as oil changes, what are you guys using? Has the switch over to synthetics made it to your car, if so why and do you notice anything different?

How about plugs? I know plugs are still relatively cheap (I still use Champion) do you guys put a new set in every spring or wait a while? Have you made a switch to Platnium or anything like that?

I've spoken to people at car shows in the past who say that if they don't put too many miles on their car over a summer, they'll change the filter and top off w/ fresh oil and some have said they also add a quart of Lucas oil treatment.

As far a oil additives, is there anything that you found fits your needs/liking or necessity?

If there is anything else you'd like to share feel free, I've pick up some good stuff here.


Mike

coppercutlass

I do 2 oil changes in the summer., one from spring to summer and one from summer to fall . I use 15 40 rotella t with a lucas zddp additive and napa filter. I too run the champion plugs and i usually clean them every season. In the winter the oil from fall stays in untill i start to drive it in the spring.

Allan R

I haven't changed the oil in my car for 4 years. But it's only gone 650 miles. I'll probably change it this year. NO synthetic. Have to find some oil with ZDDP for my flat tappets.
Plugs will not be changed unless they need to. At the rate they're going now, that will be in another 247 years. When I decide to change them, I will use either Delco or Champion copper core plugs.
Haven't added anything to my oil and don't intend to.
My suspension is brand spanking new so I don't have to lube it for another 18 years....(low mileage driving each year).
My differential is due for a fluid change.

Our winter climate can be brutal. Here's one thing I DONT do. Start the car for 15-20 minutes. Once it's parked for the winter, the battery comes out and doesn't go back in until I'm ready to use it in the spring. Winter starting is harder on the engine and exhaust systems than just letting it sit for 6 months. If your seals dry out in that time? They probably weren't much good to start with. I don't worry about an 'emergency' because the car is on dollys and can easily be pushed out of the garage by one person.

jerseymike

hi guys,

what's the deal w/ the ZDDP? I did a quick search on it and I'll assume my '68 455 has the flat tappets that is the focus of the concern.

Have you moven to detergent oils or still running regular oil and still using the recommended weight or have you moved to a higher weight like the 20w/50?

coppercutlass

Im running 15w40 . My engine runs looser tolerances so the thicker oil helps keep things in check . It also help older engines boost oil psi a bit. I run the zddp since most oils dont have it any more. The rotella t has some but it's cheap insurance for me i drive my car a lot and tend to drive it hard so the zddp helps that cam stay alive.

Allan R

That would be right. The topic has been discussed at great lengths on this site, so I'm not going to start that can of worms again. Suffice to say that no matter what brand or weight of oil you choose, it's not going to have the necessary ZDDP additives to maintain your tappets/cam. You pretty much have to buy special oils, or ZDDP additives.

If you rebuild your engine and put in roller rocker arms and roller tappets, you can use pretty much any type of oil you want. Here's a pic that shows how the rocker tappet on a cam. There's MUCH LESS issue with wear or friction.

ah64pilot

I change the oil twice a year. I'm using Valvoline VR-1 Racing Synthetic, it has a high ZDDP content and no additive is needed...but it's also $9 / qt. They make a fossil oil to the same specs with high ZDDP content.

I also change the plugs once a year, I use NGK's...I think most performance minded guys will tell you to use NGK plugs.

jerseymike

All;

well it looks like I opened a huge can of worms w/ the oil issue....OOPS sorry 'bout that. I really became evident when I typen in ZDDP into the CO search bar...WOW talk about info, I had to stop last night because it was just too much especially since some of that stuff went back as far as '09.

So far the conclusion I have come up w/ is....not to start the car and keep reading, @ my pace of words per minute read, it will take a while to get through it all.

But seriously now, I've never run a detergent oil (like the Rotella T) through the car, if I start now, is it safe to just switch over and is there a peroid of adjustment to account for any particulates that may become loose?

Like, if I do switch to the Rotella T, should I use the car, let the detergent in the oil do it's job for a short set (500,750,1000) ## of miles then change again?

jerseymike

I understand what you mean about the low mileage, but not changing the oil in 4 yrs, don't you worry sludge being created or condensation building up? I never start the car for 15-20 minutes.

If I do start it in the winter, I'll wait for a warm (40-50 degree) set of days, start it, let it get nice and warm then give it a quick drive (5-7 miles) provided there isn't salt or anything down.

As far as the battery, I keep mine on a 1.5 amp auto tender and it's never been an issue.

mike

coppercutlass

As far as the rotella I have only run it in new engines. I know for a fact my oil gets condensation over our winter because when I pull the dip stick it looks like a milk shake then I wipe it and check it again and it's fine. I have been told oil and watter create an acid that can etch the bearings so I have been told.

jag1886

You need to change oil in the fall if you are using standard oil. I use Joe Gibbs oil it has plenty of Zddp to start with and it is designed for engines that are stored for long periods. The machine shop that I get it from says to run it for 5000 miles no matter how long it takes, it is loaded with good additives and it stays in place for long periods of time (doesn't run off).
I wouldn't change plugs every year unless your engine is a little loose and fouls plugs easily. Just use plain old cheap plugs, the fancy (expensive plugs) aren't worth the investment.

rustyroger

I lube all grease points before parking for the winter and again at the start of spring and lube the hinges and locks as well.
There has been some debate on a similar topic about whether or not to put the car on blocks to stop the tires flat spotting. One good point raised was if the car is immobilised you can't push it out of the garage in hurry in case of fire or flood.
I don't apply the parking brake, I do remove the wiper blades and make sure the gas tank is full.

Roger.

oldcutlass

Why not follow the recommended intervals in the owners manual. It pretty much covers all the requirements, with the exception of the newer types of oils.

If I start my car I run it for minumum of 3-5 miles after it gets completely warmed up.

I change my oil/ filter twice a year whether it needs it or not!

pcard

I always thought it was good for any engine to start it up periodically when not in regular use ( that sounds redundant! ) for 10 or 15 minutes. I do that with my boat engine, and my emergency generator.
Could you guys tell me why that is not a good idea? Is it dependent on the ambient temperature or humidity?

Thanks, Peter

MDchanic

Because it dumps moisture into the exhaust system, to sit there for weeks and cause rust.

- Eric

Allan R

Exactly, just like this:

coppercutlass

Thats why it's common pratice to drill a small hole in the muffler to let water out. I have had my hooker aero chambers almost 5 years and i start it up in the winter to get things flowing and they still have their original paint on them .

MDchanic

Yeah, but you get condensation all over the inside, and you can't drill a big enough hole to let the water flow out freely without "changing" the sound fo the exhaust (to put it mildly ).

- Eric

Allan R

When I had the Saturn muffler replaced a few years back, I noticed it had a hole in it so I asked the tech who was installing it. Exactly what Copper said. It came that way from the manufacturer to 'drain' better. The hole was in the bottom center of the rear cover plate.

coppercutlass

Yeah but even in the summer you get condensation. My garage is usually pretty cool in temp so even in the summer i see the drain holes working. If your mufflers rot out that fast then you need better mufflers lol., my dad's 2000 dodge durango has the o.e. muffler and it has survived 12 chicago winters where we salt out roads there is no reason a muffler should rot out that fast specially on an occasional driver.

rustyroger

Another reason for letting the engine run until it has been properly warmed up for some time is to give condensation and traces of gas in the crankcase time to evaporate from the oil.

That's also why the first run after a long layup should be long enough for the engine run at its design operating temperature for a while.

Roger.

oldcutlass

Oldsmobile addresses the muffler hole in the owners manual as a check item.

Rickman48

Copper - Dad's Durango has a SS muffler - whole exhaust, for that matter!
While managing a Tuffy's, wish I had a outlet for all the SS mufflers and exhausts we removed for performance systems!
Some within 1000 miles from new!
Don't remember holes in SS.

coppercutlass

Really ss last time I was down there fixing the shocks it looked rusty. Usually ss only get's dull. By ss we talkin stainless steel ?

Rickman48

Only a magnet will tell ya!

MDchanic

All original equipment exhaust systems since at least the mid-'90s are stainless steel, but a fairly low grade. This is because the Federal government requires them to warranty all emissions system parts for a certain amount of time (I think about 100,000 miles), and the exhaust system is part of the emission control system.

They DO rust, but it takes them a long time - I've had to replace rusted stainless steel mufflers on both a '98 BMW and a '00 Jeep, both at well ober 150,000 miles.

- Eric

coppercutlass

My dad's durango has 160k. I still think there is no reason why an exhaust system that does not see regular driving like snow constant raint etc. not last atleast 10 years. I know my old boss' vette had a dynomax turbo muffler set up not stainless., it's still holding up after almost 16 years.

irydasteelhorse

have i mentioned ive had the same muffler on my car for 32 years now? and it gets driven in winter........montana winters. no rust at all, and i think it cost about $19 when i bought it. LOL