Locked engine 64 Dymanic88
April 7th, 2021, 12:01 AM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Hempstead, New York
Posts: 940
I just supplied U.S.A. made parts for a 1964 Olds 394 in New Zealand ---
Pistons, Piston Rings Set, Connecting Rod Bearings, Main Bearings Set, Cam Bearings Set,
High Performance Camshaft, Vale Lifters, Push Rods, Intake Valves, Intake Valve Guides, Exhaust Valves, Exhaust Valve Guides, set of Valve Keepers, Oil Pump, Oil Pump Screen, Oil Pump Shaft, Timing Chain, Timing Cam Gear, Timing Crank Gear, and Complete Engine Gasket Set....
Can do it again, be comforted that you don't have to go Chineseum, if that is the route you are going to go......
Yours, Craig....
Pistons, Piston Rings Set, Connecting Rod Bearings, Main Bearings Set, Cam Bearings Set,
High Performance Camshaft, Vale Lifters, Push Rods, Intake Valves, Intake Valve Guides, Exhaust Valves, Exhaust Valve Guides, set of Valve Keepers, Oil Pump, Oil Pump Screen, Oil Pump Shaft, Timing Chain, Timing Cam Gear, Timing Crank Gear, and Complete Engine Gasket Set....
Can do it again, be comforted that you don't have to go Chineseum, if that is the route you are going to go......
Yours, Craig....
April 7th, 2021, 05:32 AM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 12
I just supplied U.S.A. made parts for a 1964 Olds 394 in New Zealand ---
Pistons, Piston Rings Set, Connecting Rod Bearings, Main Bearings Set, Cam Bearings Set,
High Performance Camshaft, Vale Lifters, Push Rods, Intake Valves, Intake Valve Guides, Exhaust Valves, Exhaust Valve Guides, set of Valve Keepers, Oil Pump, Oil Pump Screen, Oil Pump Shaft, Timing Chain, Timing Cam Gear, Timing Crank Gear, and Complete Engine Gasket Set....
Can do it again, be comforted that you don't have to go Chineseum, if that is the route you are going to go......
Yours, Craig....
Pistons, Piston Rings Set, Connecting Rod Bearings, Main Bearings Set, Cam Bearings Set,
High Performance Camshaft, Vale Lifters, Push Rods, Intake Valves, Intake Valve Guides, Exhaust Valves, Exhaust Valve Guides, set of Valve Keepers, Oil Pump, Oil Pump Screen, Oil Pump Shaft, Timing Chain, Timing Cam Gear, Timing Crank Gear, and Complete Engine Gasket Set....
Can do it again, be comforted that you don't have to go Chineseum, if that is the route you are going to go......
Yours, Craig....
April 7th, 2021, 07:34 AM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Forest Ranch Ca.
Posts: 7,734
I have never pulled a stuck 394 a part with a Slim Jim attached but the earlier Jet-away and Slant pan engines are a major problem to separate the engine from the transmission when stuck. I seem to remember that that may not be a issue with the Slim Jim. Someone else needs to chime in if the problem with the nonrotation to get to the rod bolts is the same as the earlier first generation engines. You might want to try a little harder to get some movement of the pistons..... Tedd
April 7th, 2021, 07:37 AM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Sarasota Florida
Posts: 2,177
Once you use either Koda or NTXOLDS marvel mystery oil, both good..,let sit couple days.using a large persuader aka pipe on a Socket and bar, and rock the crank back and forth several times a day, see if you can get it to move even a little, keep working it it-several times-a day..after a week if you cannot get it to budge using a pipe on a socket handle with plenty of leverage then its time to pull it apart..
April 7th, 2021, 08:12 AM
#11
Phantom Phixer
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Apopka, FL
Posts: 4,762
57 and up engines do not present separation from trans problems when rusted " stuck " .
It was the early Hydra- matic's ( Without " park " ) that present a problem .
I have dealt with at least three " stuck " engines over the years . Even after freeing them up , they still needed to be completely overhauled .
When the cylinder walls and the rings become rusted . There is no way the rings will ever " seat " again .
The same thing goes for cam and lifters . Expect rapid camshaft wear .
It was the early Hydra- matic's ( Without " park " ) that present a problem .
I have dealt with at least three " stuck " engines over the years . Even after freeing them up , they still needed to be completely overhauled .
When the cylinder walls and the rings become rusted . There is no way the rings will ever " seat " again .
The same thing goes for cam and lifters . Expect rapid camshaft wear .
April 7th, 2021, 09:07 AM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 12
57 and up engines do not present separation from trans problems when rusted " stuck " .
It was the early Hydra- matic's ( Without " park " ) that present a problem .
I have dealt with at least three " stuck " engines over the years . Even after freeing them up , they still needed to be completely overhauled .
When the cylinder walls and the rings become rusted . There is no way the rings will ever " seat " again .
The same thing goes for cam and lifters . Expect rapid camshaft wear .
It was the early Hydra- matic's ( Without " park " ) that present a problem .
I have dealt with at least three " stuck " engines over the years . Even after freeing them up , they still needed to be completely overhauled .
When the cylinder walls and the rings become rusted . There is no way the rings will ever " seat " again .
The same thing goes for cam and lifters . Expect rapid camshaft wear .
April 7th, 2021, 09:09 AM
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 12
Once you use either Koda or NTXOLDS marvel mystery oil, both good..,let sit couple days.using a large persuader aka pipe on a Socket and bar, and rock the crank back and forth several times a day, see if you can get it to move even a little, keep working it it-several times-a day..after a week if you cannot get it to budge using a pipe on a socket handle with plenty of leverage then its time to pull it apart..
April 7th, 2021, 09:10 AM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 12
I have never pulled a stuck 394 a part with a Slim Jim attached but the earlier Jet-away and Slant pan engines are a major problem to separate the engine from the transmission when stuck. I seem to remember that that may not be a issue with the Slim Jim. Someone else needs to chime in if the problem with the nonrotation to get to the rod bolts is the same as the earlier first generation engines. You might want to try a little harder to get some movement of the pistons..... Tedd
April 7th, 2021, 09:14 AM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 12
April 7th, 2021, 09:16 AM
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 12
Once you use either Koda or NTXOLDS marvel mystery oil, both good..,let sit couple days.using a large persuader aka pipe on a Socket and bar, and rock the crank back and forth several times a day, see if you can get it to move even a little, keep working it it-several times-a day..after a week if you cannot get it to budge using a pipe on a socket handle with plenty of leverage then its time to pull it apart..
April 7th, 2021, 09:17 AM
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Dallas
Posts: 633
57 and up engines do not present separation from trans problems when rusted " stuck " .
It was the early Hydra- matic's ( Without " park " ) that present a problem .
I have dealt with at least three " stuck " engines over the years . Even after freeing them up , they still needed to be completely overhauled .
When the cylinder walls and the rings become rusted . There is no way the rings will ever " seat " again .
The same thing goes for cam and lifters . Expect rapid camshaft wear .
It was the early Hydra- matic's ( Without " park " ) that present a problem .
I have dealt with at least three " stuck " engines over the years . Even after freeing them up , they still needed to be completely overhauled .
When the cylinder walls and the rings become rusted . There is no way the rings will ever " seat " again .
The same thing goes for cam and lifters . Expect rapid camshaft wear .
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