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Lifting Body from Frame

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Old March 17th, 2014, 06:34 AM
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Lifting Body from Frame

Just a question for those who have lifted the body from the frame of a late 60's/early 70's Cutlass/442. Besides the body mounts, are there any other points that need to be disconnected? Assuming the linkage and all wiring and wirewall items are removed first of course. I thought for some reason the floor pans were welded to the crossmember. Is this correct?

Thanks
Sena
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Old March 17th, 2014, 08:36 AM
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Body Lift

I just took my 1970 442 Convertible off of its frame.

There were (8) body bolts and (2) sets of spacer bushings.

Some cars are a little different from my research but other that the body bolts and any obvious wiring, linkages, etc., it will lift right off.
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Old March 17th, 2014, 09:33 AM
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The steering!
brake lines
park brake cable
fuel lines
nothing is welded between body and frame- that would defeat the rubber isolators' purpose of keeping things quiet.
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Old March 17th, 2014, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Octania
The steering!
brake lines
park brake cable
fuel lines
nothing is welded between body and frame- that would defeat the rubber isolators' purpose of keeping things quiet.
Thanks guys. I wasnt sure about the welding part so the body should come off pretty smoothly (fingers crossed).

Sean
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Old March 17th, 2014, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Boilerz25
Assuming the linkage and all wiring and wirewall items are removed first of course.
Not exactly sure what you mean by linkage, but Chris has you covered for a lot of that.
Some more to add in - rear upper control arms, rear shocks, e brake cable. You might want to remove the rear bumper also so the filler neck on the fuel tank doesn't bind when lifting the body?
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Old March 17th, 2014, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Allan R
Not exactly sure what you mean by linkage, but Chris has you covered for a lot of that.
Some more to add in - rear upper control arms, rear shocks, e brake cable. You might want to remove the rear bumper also so the filler neck on the fuel tank doesn't bind when lifting the body?
Yeah I should have mentioned that the rear bumper, rear diff and fuel tank are all out already. From the looks of it, things should go smoothly. I will post an update under my project thread shortly.

Sean
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Old March 17th, 2014, 11:43 AM
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I used a chain hoist in the front body mount pockets at the bottom right and left edge of the fire wall and a 4x4 across the trunk floor with a hydrolic jack, raising the font and back up a little at a time, then when high enough, i inserted a 5' piece of square steel through the wheel rear wheel house onto saw horses. Rolled the old frame out the back and the new frame under the front. The whole process took an afternoon. The hard part was some of the captured nuts came loose inside the body, i had to cut small windows behind the rear bumper to get a wrench on them. I made cover panels that are screwed in jsut in case i need to access them again, they cant be seen with the bumper on.
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Old March 17th, 2014, 11:50 AM
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Body Lift

Here's how i did it.
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Old March 20th, 2014, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 442dale
Here's how i did it.
Guys,

Thanks for the input. I may try and use the hoist on the firewall as discussed and possibly a jack under the floor pan or trunk pan. My garage is cramped for space and I have to decide if the motor / trans comes out first or not.

Sean
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Old March 22nd, 2014, 03:19 PM
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space was limited in my garage too. so i used blocking lifted car and frame together then put the blocking under the seat reinforcements in the floor and dropped the frame.
then i used 4 in by 3/8 thick angle 8 ft long and lifted angle with two jacks just outside of frame then sat angle on 120 lb grease drums. then rolled frame out door.
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