Hey Man

I was told that I had to pull the engine up to change the oil pan gasket.
67 Cutlass Supreme Could anyone please share their knowledge here.

Was also told to just tighten the oil pan bolts. This 1967 original everything.

Really want to just replace oil pan with new gasket.

How? Thanks so much

 

Hey Man
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Yeah, man?


I was told that I had to pull the engine up to change the oil pan gasket.
67 Cutlass Supreme Could anyone please share their knowledge here.
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I'd believe it. Can't hurt to gain clearance. It made the task possible the one time I did it on a '76 GM midsize with the Olds 350...



Was also told to just tighten the oil pan bolts. This 1967 original everything.
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That might do it, man. Depends on your standards. With a 1/4" U-joint socket and long extension, you can probably access all but 3 or 4 behind the motor mounts with no motor moving. If it's still leaking, THEN pull the pan, clean out the timing sprocket bits from the oil pump, and proceed accordingly. Might as well replace the timing set if the sprocket is in the oil pump, easy with pan off...


Really want to just replace oil pan with new gasket.
How? Thanks so much
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Removing the motor mounts from the engine maybe necessary, certainly will make more room... might as well slide new ones in, right? Impact tool and impact swivel sockets will be well worth the price here. It's not that bad, man. I'd advise making some tapered wood blocks to put between the engine and frame while it's lifted, you are putting your hands in there. Oh, and remove the distributor cap or maybe the whole distributor before it breaks.

 

I haven't done only a pan (or pan gasket) job on my '67, but I was able to change a dented oil pan in my '79 Trans Am by raising the engine. As I recall, I had to remove the shroud (or remove the fan so it can stay in the shroud), and I think I pulled the distributor cap so it didn't hit the firewall and crack. Possibly the fuel inlet line to the fuel pump and power steering lines, too - it's been over 20 years and I'm not certain on those.

At any rate, once the basics like that were out of the way, I removed the motor mounts, jacked the engine using a piece of 2 x 8 under the oil pan, and then slid some short lengths of 4" x 4" between the engine mounts and frame mounts to hold it up.

That gave me enough room to completely remove and replace my oil pan. I think if I were to have to do it again, though, I'd spend the extra hour to drain the coolant and disconnect the transmission and wiring and simply remove the motor... I guess that part depends on the time, space, and tools you have to do the job.

 

Check a assembly/motor manual to see what position the crank throws have to be in order to get pan out with engine in car. Remember seeing info in the motor section about this, good luck and would pull the distributor, as mentioned above.

 

It's a pain in the a$$ to do it in the car while on your back. If you had a lift different story. If I were to attempt an oil pan gasket I'd remove the motor and let the MAWS take over.

Give tightening the pan bolts a shot first if it's a small leak.

 

I recently replaced the pan gaskets on my '67 Vista Cruiser and, yes, you need to lift the engine. I had my car on jack stands and lifted the motor with an engine crane. Remove the motor mount bolts and crank away. Just keep an eye on your fan (so it doesn't break the shroud or scrape the radiator), and pay attention to the distributor/firewall clearance. It has to go up a pretty fair amount to be able to remove the pan. It's tough but not impossible. If an old fart like me can do it, anybody can. The worst part of the whole job was all the climbing under the car and out again to check things. My knees and back were not happy. But now I have a leak-free car again.