I am getting ready to replace the 2 barrel intake on a 67 330 with 70K miles, good compression, no oil consumption. Other than going to dual exhaust with low restriction mufflers, I am leaving everything else as is, considering the price and weight difference, would you guys recommend a Edlebrock or stock manifold? Either way, I am using a quadrajet carb. Thanks to all for any suggestions.

 

The Edelbrock would be lighter in weight but probably heavier in cost unless you get a special deal. If you're not doing any more than you mentioned, I'd probably vote for saving money and using an Olds iron manifold in good condition.

 

Where are you located?

 

Thanks, located in central Va.

 

The Edelbrock 3711's are too stiff in price if you don't mind using the EGR block-off plates.

EDIT: I meant to say the Edels AREN'T too stiff in price. Sorry.

 

You won't see a performance difference from one over the other in your application, and as said, the only difference will be the lower weight of an aluminum intake. This would put it as a personal preference on your part as to whether you use a factory intake or an aftermarket one. An option would be a factory aluminum A4 (I think?) from the 307 G body years.

One thing to consider is what type of choke setup you will use on the QJet - divorced or integrated (either hot air or electric). If you use an era correct divorced choke carb I would definitely use a matching intake.

 

Thanks everyone, I decided to go with a stock iron manifold. Any recommendations on which intake gasket to use? Thanks again!

 

You will probably get more than one opinion on the gasket. Some gasket sets are one piece (Fel-Pro MS96009) some are two piece (Fel-Pro MS 88471). Other companies also offer something similar. Both types use the rubber end seals. Some people use silicone to substitute for the rubber end seals due to difficulty in placement of the rubber seals. Either way, as a minimum, you should use thin sealant on the metal gaskets. This is a procedure where you should install the manifold "straight down" on the engine without shifting or moving it after placement. (It's sort of like installing a toilet on a wax ring.) The one piece shields the engine oil from the bottom of the (exhaust crossover) hot manifold. Use the combination that you think will serve you best. Torque as per the specs using the tightening sequence.

 

Ozzie speaks the truth. I went with the turkey tray on my 350. It's supposed to keep hot oil from splashing on the bottom of the intake. Lots of debate on that topic. I also went with just RTV for the end seals. Too many stories about the rubber seals failing to seal. But you gotta' lay a GOOD bead down, between 1/4 and 3/16" thick. Dry fit your manifold first so you have a good idea of what it will need. My instructions said to run a small bead of rtv around the water jackets (both top and bottom of the gasket) and a slight bead around the intakes (again, top and bottom). Practice laying that puppy down straight and true, as Ozzie said, without moving it afterward. If it's in the car, it's going to be a pain in the back but you don't want to have to redo it later.
Good luck, 67.

 

Thanks for the advice, engine is in the car so I'm doing extra pushups to get ready to sit the intake straight down!!! Thanks again.

 

You cant use the turkey tray on a 330 with the built in drip tray on the lifter galley unless you remove it. Use the stock drip tray and the 4 piece gasket set. I would find an extra set of hands to help with placing the cast iron manifold in place. That sucker is heavy.

 

4 piece fel-pro it is, thanks again