Want to hear of real life experiences....Robins vs ez on tops ...and any other ...
Will be buying this week and installing myself.... Can anyone share their experience? Not opinions ....only those who have installed a new convertible top...I am going for the cloth....not vinyl... Thanks!!

 

I don't remember the brand.

Not hard, but requires time and patience, and a willingness to go back and re-do what you just spent hours doing.

Figure two guys and at least two full days if you haven't done one before, but having a week with an available helper is better, so you don't rush and screw it up.

Replace all tacking strips (CAREFULLY), avoid breaking off tiny metal tacking strip retainers, expect to find rust-through on front bow and have to refinish it.

Use only a few nails or staples to start, as you'll have to remove them when you realize you did it wrong.

Go slow, don't rush, and it'll turn out fine.

- Eric

 

Why is the cloth top better then the vinyl? I'm going to try to do this at some point my self so subscribed for all the good tips.

 

Well if you are putting a cloth top on then I can't help with manufacturers.

I replaced mine with an O.E. style top back in 1990 but right now I can't remember the brand - I'd have to look at my records. I currently have a Kee top waiting to be put on.

 

I never worked on a vert before, never owned one. Installed my Kee top on my 65 98. Did not have a old top to go by, and did all work myself with no help. Rebuilt frame, made sure all worked well before starting install. Took my time with all new pads, tack strips etc. Figured if I totally screwed it up, I could still buy another top if needed for what it would cost to pay someone to do it. Took my time and did it over 2 weeks.
Follow and read the info out there. Read and re-read the factory info. It can be unstapled and re stapled almost any where but the last bow across the top. Bought a Harbor freight air stapler and stainless staples. Had to play with the stapler some before it worked flawlessly. Have the top warm, but may be less critical if top is cloth. Mine was vinyl and had plastic window.
Just go slow, walk away if things even start to go awry and research some more.
Using the old top as a pattern will make it easier.
I would not be afraid to do it again.

 

Oh... and use the Fisher Body Manual's instructions. They're clear and should tell you all you need to know.

- Eric

 

This is one of the reasons why I couldn't tackle the job by myself. I had no access to any electrical outlet for a portable air compressor. I gave my convertible to a professional installer and he did it within 1 day.

 

I have done 3 on 66-67 442 convertibles. It is not rocket science but it does take time and two people is best. I have an electric staple gun I bought at Lowe's. Using new pads, top, well liner, cables and weather strips is a must. I put the pads on after installing new rubber in place of the fiber cardboard type stuff in the bows. If you take the old top off measure and write down the measurement of the back bow to the body. I cleaned and painted my entire top bow mechanism prior to installing the new top. When you put the pads on remember you see the bottom of them so the open seam you want up so you don't see it when the top is up and you are in the car. The top I used was a Robins if I remember right. It comes with starter holes in the bottom of the back for the retainer sections that hold the top and the back window and well liner in with the large hex headed screws. Installing the back window assembly comes before the top pads are installed. This is where your measurement is used. Once done you put the top on and line up the seam to the back bow. Then staple it down. I used a clear sealer on that as well. You will put the fold over seam cover on this in the end and the chrome tips. You will then put the weather strips on the sides and this holds the top on from the sides. You want this to be tight. There is a bow loose piece on the middle bow that slips into the loop in the top you put this on and screw in on. This has only one place to go so easy to get right. The last is the front where you do the front weather strip and this you also want to make the top tight. When you do the back where the back window, top, and well liner come together it is hard and where you need two people the most. This is where the top has guide holes for the screws already in it. They seem wrong but are right. Laying in the trunk and back seat areas are a must. After it is on park it in the sun for a good sunny day then after it is good and warm latch it down in the front and make it very tight. It will stretch over time.

it took us two or three days and it has been on for about 3 years on our current convertible. I am very pleased with it.

Larry

 

I installed the top on my car using a regular old manual staple gun. There's no requirement for electric or air operated equipment.

 

I can see using a manual stapler, I used the air stapler as I had the air, and installing it by myself made holding the top and stapling easier. The HF gun was cheap.

 

Me too. Never even thought about using a power stapler.

- Eric

 

I use any excuse for a new tool. It is the best way my wife can get me to do something around the house.

 

You do not need a power stapler. But, I felt it would get the staples in better and not be hard on my hands which I have an issue with.

A manual stapler works fine.

But, I always like new tools also.

Larry

 

Subscribed...thinking about doing on my 70 cutlass......

 

great info here.when i did my 64 starfire i had about half the old top still on it.if yours is still there definately make sure you measure from the back to the top of the back bow.also another thing.mine still had the cotton pads which were in great shape so i reused them.alot of the new tops come with foam.

 

I have replaced the top on two different '67 convertibles. Both were pretty much gone by the time I got them so I had nothing to go by. Just jumped in with both feet. The first one, I bought a canvas top and I liked it much better than the vinyl top that came with the second car. The canvas top came with the rear bolt holes marked with chalk X's for their locations. The vinyl top had holes already punched. USE THEM! Like mentioned already, they may seem wrong, but they are in the right place. The first one I did had very nice tack strips so I didn't replace them. That one took me a couple days. The second one I didn't have a lot of time. Took me about half a day. It shows! But the rain was coming and I needed to get the top on. The front tack strips are a mess and I still need to replace them. That will be a real joy because the retaining tabs are quite rusted. Not sure how that is gonna turn out. The front welt piece is missing and I need to find one but I want to replace it with a canvas top eventually anyway so I don't mind too much. The front seal is in place so it seals well enough. I haven't taken the time to adjust the frame on the second one yet. The first one still worked fine and didn't need adjusting. Gotta read that manual to adjust it correctly.

I used an upholstery style air stapler on the first one, they use smaller gauge staples. Make sure you get ALL of the staples out of the tack strips, even the broken ones, if you don't plan on replacing them. I used a Harbor Freight T50 air stapler for the second one. I still have the upholstery stapler but it needs to be rebuilt and I can't find the parts.

The vinyl top that came with the second car came with a strip of material that was glued to the header bow to "cushion" the top as it wraps around the front.

Document everything as you take it apart, if you get to take it apart, so you know where and how all the little parts go back.

Make sure you put the nice side of the corner cushions down towards the cabin side when you install them so they look nice when the top is up.

Make sure the top is warm and soft when installing it so it is easier to move around and so the fold creases smooth out better, and the vinyl window will be easier to deal with.

Check the fit of the window section at least twice before tacking it in place and then check it at least a couple more times as you put the actual top in place with it. You want that part to fit right or you will have distortions in the window with the top up. This is where the bolt locations along the rear become important. The bolt holes should line up with the window section, the well, and the top section. It is a pain in the a$$ to put all those pieces together and bolt in by yourself. Buy your buddy a beer and a pizza to get help if you have to.

It can be satisfying to put a top on yourself, but take your time, check it twice and then check it again before stapling it in place. This is the top I installed in half a day and it shows. It doesn't take too much more time to do it right. Like I said though, I was racing against the weather and I want to put on a batter one eventually anyway so I can live with the flaws for now.

IMG_20150629_190548683_HDR_zpsm1e4az7k.jpg

IMG_20150629_190509948_HDR_zpssetkigam.jpg

IMG_20150629_190451277_HDR_zps5r422vtr.jpg

Some of the wrinkles will smooth out over time.

Passenger%20side_zps56248unl.jpg

 

I had read that cloth tops are quieter and have a longer warranty than the vinly. Something about the vinly flapping makes for a louder noise..but others may have a personal experience or a nugget of wisdom that may help here.....

 

My car's top has never "flapped" in all the years I've had it. If the top flaps, it was installed incorrectly and is way too loose.

 

I don't know about cloth verses vinyl, no experience. But I would think that cloth w/glass window is unaffected by cold temps. Vinyl instructions say do not operate when below 40F. If working on interior in a cold garage it would be harder if you cannot operate top. Gonna cause me problems this winter.
Thoughts?

 

Lurking and following along with this thread as I intend to replace the top on my 64 D88 this winter. Haartz was a supplier for factory vinyl tops but I am aware that cloth is available as well. Price difference is about $275 in my market. Leaning toward cloth but a plastic window. Too much effort with glass windows from what I've read. Carry on.

 

What is too much effort? Installation or use? FYI, I didn't find anything that I would consider "too much effort" with the glass window on my car.

 

Great advice on here. The air stapler was a bonus!

 

Looks good!

Did you replace the tack strips? I need to replace the ones on my top and I'm trying to find the correct sizes.

 

On my 98 the rear was 5/8 wide and I had to layer it for the thickness. The fiber ones can be split into different thickness.

 

I did at the front....the top came with two sizes with different thicknesses. As Patrick said the one above the window was two thick, and the side and front steps were thinner. I will measure them and post...and thanks, it came out pretty good. Definitley it was very helpful having another pair of hands to help installing it!