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Installing engine and tranny together

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Old May 14, 2013 | 06:57 AM
  #1  
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Installing engine and tranny together

Hello, I will be dropping in my engine and tranny together in my Cutlass this evening. I have never done this before, I took them out seperate because I didn't have the room and it was in the middle of the winter so I couldn't open the garage door and make room. Now that its nice out I can make room for it. I was wondering if I want to have the tranny crossmember in when I do this or put it in after I drop it in? Also any other tips for doing this would be great. I have my headers bolted on and I do have the tip connection for my engine picker so I know that will help a lot. Any thoughts are appreciated, thanks
Old May 14, 2013 | 07:22 AM
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Remove the the headers from the engine and install later from the bottom up. I find it easier to install engine and trans as a unit. The xmember should not need to be removed. The car needs to be high enough to get a good tilt on the engine. I usually install a yoke and put a plastic bag on the tailhousing of the trans so fluid does not leak all over the place.
Old May 14, 2013 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
Remove the the headers from the engine and install later from the bottom up. I find it easier to install engine and trans as a unit. The xmember should not need to be removed. The car needs to be high enough to get a good tilt on the engine. I usually install a yoke and put a plastic bag on the tailhousing of the trans so fluid does not leak all over the place.
I am curious about the headers, everyone else I have spoke to told me to put them on first. What are the reasons for putting them on after the engine is in? Regarding the xmember I removed it to clean it up as my tranny was leaking and it was a mess. So I will put that back in before I install. I have the car on stands now. I had it just high enough to be able to get the tranny out by itself under the car. Is that enough or should I raise it even higher? Thanks
Old May 14, 2013 | 07:49 AM
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That may be high enough. I've found the headers sometimes will not clear. Maybe others will chime in.
Old May 14, 2013 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
That may be high enough. I've found the headers sometimes will not clear. Maybe others will chime in.
I would hate to get it in that far and find out they don't clear. For anyone else that may chime in they are flowtech full length headers.
Old May 14, 2013 | 08:14 AM
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I have had the best luck dropping the motor and trans in as a unit, after it is a few inches above the motor mounts, then put the headers in place, you'll need an extra set of hands. I like to have the X member out of the way, have an extra set of hands underneath to put a jack stand under the trans tail shaft and lower carefully, then slide the xmember in.
Old May 14, 2013 | 08:16 AM
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What he said x2
Old May 14, 2013 | 08:31 AM
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What he said x3 (I used a floor jack under transmission instead of jack stand so I could roll it around a little, and adjust the height.
Old May 14, 2013 | 08:46 AM
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Ok so what I gather is to remove the headers, and leave the xmember out. Lower the engine and tranny into the engine bay until the motor mounts are still a few inches up from the frame. Put a floor jack under the tranny so it has some ability to move around. Install the headers, put in the xmember and finish lowering them into position. Sound about right?

I would like to hear from anyone who has been able to drop the engine in with the headers already on. If its not possible thats fine. Thanks for the help guys

Last edited by Finn5033; May 14, 2013 at 09:11 AM.
Old May 14, 2013 | 09:44 AM
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The xtra hands is a must.
Old May 14, 2013 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
The xtra hands is a must.
10-4 on that
Old May 14, 2013 | 10:27 AM
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Finn, the real advise on this job, just do it and worry about the bridges when it's time to cross them.

One more thing, make sure your brake lines are not against the headers, take your time and have fun.
Old May 14, 2013 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
Finn, the real advise on this job, just do it and worry about the bridges when it's time to cross them.

One more thing, make sure your brake lines are not against the headers, take your time and have fun.
That is the plan, I am going to get a helper and just do it.
Old May 14, 2013 | 11:15 AM
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You really need an engine tilter to install the engine and trans as a unit. This will make your life MUCH easier, especially if the core support is still in place on the car.
Old May 14, 2013 | 11:34 AM
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You can also raise the back of the car, while chocking the fronts to increase the angle of attack.
Old May 14, 2013 | 11:36 AM
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I've done many without the tilter, use the same size chain link that barely fits into the hoist hook and just hook it more towards the front of the engine.
Old May 14, 2013 | 12:04 PM
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I have an industrial swivel that also tills. It's great for working by oneself. Ken
Old May 14, 2013 | 01:39 PM
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Removing the x-member helped a lot in the removal of my engine and trans together, so it would make sense to me to have it out of the way when I re-install them.

I was looking at having the headers sitting in the engine bay prior to putting in the engine, not sure if they'll be in the way, but like it was said earlier, I'll cross that bridge when it comes.
Old May 14, 2013 | 02:51 PM
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Yup, headers off along with oil filter..
Old May 14, 2013 | 03:47 PM
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I found the easiest way to install engine and transmission together was to remove the body. No extra hands needed.
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Old May 14, 2013 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by boese1978
I've done many without the tilter, use the same size chain link that barely fits into the hoist hook and just hook it more towards the front of the engine.
I know, we never had tilters when I was a kid.
Old May 14, 2013 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by boese1978
I've done many without the tilter, use the same size chain link that barely fits into the hoist hook and just hook it more towards the front of the engine.
I've done plenty that way. My prior statement still stands - get an engine tilter.
Old May 14, 2013 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
I've done plenty that way. My prior statement still stands - get an engine tilter.
X2 when you're a one man operation the tilter saves a lot of cuss words
Old May 14, 2013 | 05:12 PM
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I do most of my own work and an engine is not a problem by myself. I don't have a tilter and installed the 455 with the 400 in my Olds. I would also have to say, No headers, oil filter, AND Distributer. To easy to bump the firewall and not worth it. My 7 Qt Moroso pan was to say the least, real tight going in with the engine and trans attached. I had to jack up the trans in phases as the engine dropped.
Old May 14, 2013 | 08:42 PM
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Ok guys thanks for all the tips. I already had the headers on so I got the engine and trans up in the engine bay. While in there I removed the headers and had no trouble getting the engine set. I got the driver side header in without much trouble but it looks like I will need to remove the oil filter housing to get the passenger side one in.
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Last edited by Finn5033; May 14, 2013 at 08:46 PM.
Old May 15, 2013 | 07:29 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Finn5033
it looks like I will need to remove the oil filter housing to get the passenger side one in.
That's correct, you will.
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