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I bought a Tomco reman 2Jet carburetor through a parts house and it's got 7034942 stamped on it but the one on my car is 7042156. As best as I can tell, this carb is supposed to be for a '68 350 and I've got a '72. Should I return it, or will it not make much of a difference?
The reman carburetors are built form a general core. It should be built to the stock specs of the car you ordered it for regardless of what is stamped on it.
The reality is that these rebuilding houses cannot stock every single variation for every engine combo for every model for every year of production. These carbs are rebuilt to "close enough" specs as a generic carb that will work "OK" over a range of applications and model years. Personally I'd never use them, but I only rebuild my own carbs.
That's the issue with sending stuff out as cores. I don't mean to add insult to injury but next time you need to go that route send it to a reputable rebuilder.
I use Larry Isgro Carbs in Wantagh, NY 516-783-1041. He's been doing carbs for the better part of 50 years. He has a tent in Hershey, Carlisle and Rhinebeck (Duchess County, NY), to name a few and he advertises in Hemmings.
I'll add that first of all, 703xxxx is not an Oldsmobile carb number, period. It may simply be a part number from one component of the carb - is it stamped or raised cast numerals? The reality is that you have no idea what that carb really came from. Second, a 1968 carb and a 1972 carb have different internal passageways and vacuum ports. A correct 1972 carb will have timed vacuum ports, for example, to correctly vent the charcoal vapor canister. All 1972 Olds 2GCs used an idle stop solenoid that bolted to the carb body. 68s would have used either a dashpot or a solenoid that bolted to the intake manifold.
This is the only number I could find on it. As much as I'd like to ship the carb out to be rebuilt, I'm stuck driving the car right now so I can't disable it for a few weeks.
This is the only number I could find on it. As much as I'd like to ship the carb out to be rebuilt, I'm stuck driving the car right now so I can't disable it for a few weeks.
That is the casting number for the main body of the carb. The actual carb ID number will be a STAMPED number, as in stamped into the metal. Raised casting numbers are not "stamped". Have you closely compared this rebuilt to your original? Does it have all the same features - carb lever, provision for the solenoid, same vacuum ports in the same places, etc?
Is this the solenoid? It doesn't look like there's any place to attach it to the reman carburetor.
It also looks like this nozzle is missing, but may be screwed in.
This isn't attached to anything on my car. Is there a hose that supposed to go from it into the bottom of the air cleaner?
Well, that explains the T connector with a blocked-off vacuum hose. I checked out the switch they're supposed to go to and it looks like it has a bad wire going to it. I wonder why whoever fixed it didn't just splice the wire instead of attaching the vacuum advance hose directly to the carb and blocking everything else off. There's also a loop of hose in the back of the carburetor that goes from the carb right back into itself. Is that the one that's supposed to go to the air cleaner?
I just got this car and wasn't planning on doing a lot of work to it, but it looks like I might be stuck with it for a while, so I may have to pick up a CSM.
This is how amazing Joe P and this Olds site really is . Guys with or without a chassis service manual in hand get answers to questions they are in need of almost instantly.
Joe's posted pic's above are incredibly helpful to many .
Put-r-ther Joe !
Location: Sherwood Park, Alberta, in the Great White North
Posts: 359
You could make this carb work in a pinch. The dashpot solenoid is an idle compensation thing, does your car have A/C? You can get away without it in a pinch if you set the idle a little higher; (not too high, you don't want to run it into the off-idle or lower power band). What I've done in the past is using a vacuum gauge, adjust and set the mixture and idle to the maximum your timing will allow, and then test it with the engine hot to see if it holds an idle. It should, those electronic solenoids were there because they were trying to lean out the carb as much as possible.
As for the other vacuum port, it's ported vacuum, meaning it will only pull a vacuum when the throttle is engaged, unlike manifold vacuum, which is the opposite. So you're probably stuck trying to find a nipple for that port, - if it's open. On the earlier model cars it may not be, the post-71 emissions engines used ported vacuum a lot more. Check where your distributor is fed from. By 72 it should be on ported vacuum, and if it isn't you may have replaced that carb for no reason because the timing might be all wrong. Here again, a Chassis Manual would confirm, I don't have my tune-up books around to confirm.
So how that switch is supposed to work is like this; - you tromp on the gas pedal, a vacuum signal goes to the thermal switch, opens the diaphragm and permits vacuum to go to the other services (when the temperature is right), namely the distributor, which then advances the spark as you add gas. The line to the throat of the carb is supposed to act act as a boost/pressure equalizer and then as a dump off when the throttle is snapped shut. There should be a vacuum line going to the aircleaner, probably also from that "tree".
I'm sure the Olds experts will chime in...I'm just a Buick guy who's tuned a few old engines. And I hate the early emission controls, most people have had them bypassed badly by people who didn't understand their function and then had to tune the motor incorrectly as a result.
I never installed it. I'm just sending it back and I'll have to try a different route.
You know, I bought a classic car so I didn't have to deal with all the vacuum lines and electronics of that emissions control crap, yet I find myself having to deal with it anyways.
I never installed it. I'm just sending it back and I'll have to try a different route.
You know, I bought a classic car so I didn't have to deal with all the vacuum lines and electronics of that emissions control crap, yet I find myself having to deal with it anyways.
My 76 runs with vacuum advance and vacuum for the heater/A/C blend door only , that's it no other crap . I run a 195 t-stat to keep the moisture down in the engine once at temp as well. We drive most weekends throughout the summer, It runs like a champ.
This is an older picture from 2013-14. First bolt-on attempt for more horses that didn't corral up . Many things have changed but you get the idea.
I bought a Tomco reman 2Jet carburetor through a parts house and it's got 7034942 stamped on it but the one on my car is 7042156. As best as I can tell, this carb is supposed to be for a '68 350 and I've got a '72. Should I return it, or will it not make much of a difference?
Send that piece of **** Tomco carb back, send your original carb to Sparky Koroff to get rebuit you won't be sorry... http://www.sparkyscarbs.com/
Location: Sherwood Park, Alberta, in the Great White North
Posts: 359
Originally Posted by Tiberian Fiend
I never installed it. I'm just sending it back and I'll have to try a different route.
You know, I bought a classic car so I didn't have to deal with all the vacuum lines and electronics of that emissions control crap, yet I find myself having to deal with it anyways.
Then buy a car that was built before 1971.
Otherwise, a lot of that emissions control crap can be bypassed as long as you know what you're doing. The key thing is to figure out what your distributor wants, ported or manifold. If you change distributors, know what the new one wants and then time out the engine accordingly. You can clear most of it away otherwise.
Is this the solenoid? It doesn't look like there's any place to attach it to the reman carburetor.
It also looks like this nozzle is missing, but may be screwed in.
This isn't attached to anything on my car. Is there a hose that supposed to go from it into the bottom of the air cleaner?
The number in the pic "7042156" is the number that will tell what it came on originally, Which is a 1972 Olds Cutlass with a 350 and an automatic transmission. As per Delco Carburetor Bulletin 9C-5033 Nov.1972
The number in the pic "7042156" is the number that will tell what it came on originally, Which is a 1972 Olds Cutlass with a 350 and an automatic transmission. As per Delco Carburetor Bulletin 9C-5033 Nov.1972
That is his original carb, installed on the car it did come on. The problem is the rebuilt he got that was allegedly the same thing. FYI, 7042156 was used on both Cutlii and Delta 88s in the 1972 model year.
I bought a Tomco reman 2Jet carburetor through a parts house and it's got 7034942 stamped on it but the one on my car is 7042156. As best as I can tell, this carb is supposed to be for a '68 350 and I've got a '72. Should I return it, or will it not make much of a difference?
The carb that your showing pic's (704....) of is for a 1970's Olds. An original carb for a '68 would start with 702....
The carb that your showing pic's (704....) of is for a 1970's Olds. An original carb for a '68 would start with 702....
Everybody stop and take a step back, as apparently we are confusing each other.
The OP has a 1972 Cutlass 350 2bbl, shown here. The 7042156 stamped carb is the correct, original carb on this car. He bought a reman 2bbl. In his first post he was speculating, based on the casting number on the reman carb, that the reman was for a 1968. We've since determined that the reman is cobbled together (big surprise) and does not have all the features he needs. Please go back and review the earlier posts in this thread.
That is his original carb, installed on the car it did come on. The problem is the rebuilt he got that was allegedly the same thing. FYI, 7042156 was used on both Cutlii and Delta 88s in the 1972 model year.
Except it doesn't quite work because the radius-radii thing is for words that are Latin-derived where the singular end in "-us" such as radius or alumnus (plural is alumni).
"Cutlass" ends in "-***," not "-us", so pluralizing it by changing the "***" to "ii" is nonsense.
But it looks cool!
Consider this joke:
A Roman walks into a bar and asks for a Martinus. The bartender says, "do you mean a martini?" The Roman says, "if I had wanted a double, I would have asked for it!"
Is there any reason the original carb can't be rebuilt? A few hours and $ 30 can make a big difference in the carb operation. The kits are are cheap and setting the carb according to the manual can make a big difference in operation. If that vacuum line has been off the carb the whole time plugging it or reconnecting it will Definetly help!
I wanted to get a tailfin era car that I could restore after I was done with my '67 Cutlass, but I was limited to whatever was available at the time that was drivable and in my budget range.
Originally Posted by RetroRanger
Is there any reason the original carb can't be rebuilt? A few hours and $ 30 can make a big difference in the carb operation. The kits are are cheap and setting the carb according to the manual can make a big difference in operation. If that vacuum line has been off the carb the whole time plugging it or reconnecting it will Definetly help!
I've never rebuilt one before and I don't want to pull it apart when I don't know if I can put it back together. Maybe I can find a junk one on eBay or something and rebuild that, though.
Originally Posted by jaunty75
Except it doesn't quite work because the radius-radii thing is for words that are Latin-derived where the singular end in "-us" such as radius or alumnus (plural is alumni).
Note that it's specifically for Latin-derived words that end in -us. Words from other languages that end in -us like cactus, which is derived from the Greek "kaktos", are pluralized with -es.
Just found this reman on eBay while looking for cores. Think it's worth a shot?
Well, obviously it's a heck of a lot closer than your first reman. I'm always worried about statements like this, however:
1971-73 Oldsmobile 350"-455"cid.
Rochester carbs are model year and engine specific. There is no Rochester carb ever made that was exactly correct for three different model years and two different engine sizes. Obviously as with all commercial rebuilds, this is a generic carb that will be "close" to original specs. There's no way to know exactly without tearing it apart and checking jets, settings, etc. Of course, that's the same as rebuilding the carb you have. To me, $375 with shipping is insanely expensive for a generic rebuilt carb, but only you can determine if it makes sense for you. Note the $45 core charge also - though it isn't exactly clear if that's already in the price.
I doubt there's any way to tack on a core charge on eBay, so that's probably figured into the price. $310 still seems like a lot for a rebuilt carb, though, but I'm in a tough spot. My current carb is leaking gas and filling the passenger compartment with fumes and the choke is stuck open so it's difficult to start, so pretty much anything would be a step up.
December 28th, 2018, 02:39 AM
