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Old August 25th, 2018, 09:56 AM
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I screwed up bad

Today I tried to install transmission mounts. As you can see I messed up. Not sure how I did it so easily. I was holding the socket wrench with the socket between my middle fingers. As soon as it got snug, that happened.


Am i completely screwed, or can someone give me some advice on how to proceed.

thanks,
bob
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Old August 25th, 2018, 10:44 AM
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Is that the bolt to the trans or the one to the trans mount. For the trans you can try to retap the hole with bottom tap. There probably is enough good threads to work, if not a heli-coil. If its the mount you can do the same of buy a new one.
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Old August 25th, 2018, 10:44 AM
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You could try to install a Helicoil.
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Old August 25th, 2018, 11:40 AM
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It is the trans. If retapping doesn't work, will i still be able to try a helicoil?
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Old August 25th, 2018, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Rvsmith5
It is the trans. If retapping doesn't work, will i still be able to try a helicoil?
I tried retapping mine but ended up putting HeliCoil in it and was good to go.
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Old August 25th, 2018, 11:52 AM
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Yes, that is the next step if re-tapping doesn't work.
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Old August 25th, 2018, 12:14 PM
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What kind of trans? In many cases, the trans mount bolt hole is a through hole. You can just put a nut on the top. This photo is a TH400 tailhousing, for example. FYI, it is also extremely easy to swap the tailhousing (assuming we're talking about a trans with a bolt-on tailhousing).


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Old August 25th, 2018, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
What kind of trans? In many cases, the trans mount bolt hole is a through hole. You can just put a nut on the top. This photo is a TH400 tailhousing, for example. FYI, it is also extremely easy to swap the tailhousing (assuming we're talking about a trans with a bolt-on tailhousing).
This is what it looks like, not sure if it goes all the way, i will have to crawl under to make sure.
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Old August 25th, 2018, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Rvsmith5
It is the trans. If retapping doesn't work, will i still be able to try a helicoil?
The object is to keep it straight and tap the original threads not the crossed threaded boogered up ones. Use some cutting oil, it should work
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Old August 25th, 2018, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
The object is to keep it straight and tap the original threads not the crossed threaded boogered up ones. Use some cutting oil, it should work
I think the boogered up threads came out with the bolt
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Old August 25th, 2018, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Rvsmith5
I think the boogered up threads came out with the bolt
There they are.
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Old August 25th, 2018, 03:11 PM
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Just buy a new bolt. If the threads came out with the bolt, the threads in the mount should be ok.
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Old August 25th, 2018, 03:21 PM
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Those are the threads from inside the trans.
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Old August 25th, 2018, 03:35 PM
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Okee dokee, Well, if you can get the bolt threaded in straight past the first 3 threads without causing another (cross thread?) you should be ok.
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Old August 25th, 2018, 03:38 PM
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The bolt looks a lot newer than the washer. It makes me wonder if the wrong (to short) length bolt was used and pulled the threads out. Only 3 threads were pulled, which leads me to my assumption.
A rule of thumb is that a bolt should have at least the same depth of engagement as the bolt diameter (3/8" bolt, 3/8" thread depth, etc.). Do .some measuring and checking for good threads.
The easiest solution depends on if the hole is through hole...longer bolt and nut. Heli-coil would work also, but might be harder if working on your back under the car.
........Just my two cents worth
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Old August 25th, 2018, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Rvsmith5
I think the boogered up threads came out with the bolt
The boogered up threads don't matter, the tap will clean that area up so you can get a bolt threaded deeper into the hole.
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Old August 25th, 2018, 07:51 PM
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I know its blasphemy but you can rethread to metric and avoid a helicoil. I do it all the time lol
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Old August 25th, 2018, 09:37 PM
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Let us know your progress. I think you will likely be ok by running a tap through the hole as suggested.........just be careful starting it. A longer bolt that sticks out the top side and a nut might be something to have on hand. Get a bolt to go in the hole deeper should be your plan.
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Old August 26th, 2018, 04:51 AM
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Taps, just a note. Taps come in three different chamfers or (leads). Taper, plug and bottoming. Bottoming being the shortest usually 2 to 3 threads. Plug being mid range 3 to 5 threads and the longest being taper which is the best to used for mostly repairs where their is room at the bottom of the hole or a thru hole. If this is truly a thru hole application your best chance would be to acquire a tap with a taper chamfer. Best shot is installing a Heli-Coil inert which will give you the most strength.
Thanks
Wayne
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Old August 26th, 2018, 06:44 AM
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I would recommend a HeliCoil as well.

You need to make a drill guide from a block of steel.

Use a drill press to drill thru the block of steel to match the trans mounting holes.

The block should be about 1" thick.

Bolt the drill guide to the good threaded hole.

Use a hand drill and the drill guide to drill a strait hole for the HeliCoil.

Take your time and do it right.
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Old August 26th, 2018, 06:55 AM
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I think people are waaaay overreacting to this. First, it appears that not all the threads in the tailhousing were stripped out. Before doing anything, see if a longer bolt will tighten up in the remaining threads. You may want to run a tap through the hole first to clean it up. Be VERY careful to avoid doing more damage. Second, while your trans photo was pretty much unhelpful, and you still haven't told us WHICH transmission it is, from the modulator location in the photo it APPEARS to be a TH350. The bad news is that those mounting bosses are part of the case, not the tailhousing. The good news is that there is probably enough room above the boss to get a nut on the bolt. Temporarily remove the vacuum modulator to make that easier. Third, if you do choose to install a helicoil, this is not that critical. You don't need a guide block. If the bolt isn't exactly perpendicular to the boss, it won't be the end of the world.
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Old August 26th, 2018, 09:06 AM
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X 2 what Joe said ! Longer bolt or longer bolt and nut.........easy peasy.
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Old August 26th, 2018, 02:13 PM
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Got it working, thank you everyone for the advice. I was able to clean up the remaining threads and get it done. Thank you everyone for the help. Now on to fuel tank and rear end.
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Old August 26th, 2018, 02:35 PM
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Way to go.
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Old August 26th, 2018, 05:17 PM
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Sometime I want to figure out when to use a thread chases vs a tap. Many different opinions.
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Old August 26th, 2018, 09:09 PM
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Clean out the hole of dirt and grease. Use Red Loctite on your new bolt after determining the proper length and you will not have to tighten the bolt as tight. Let dry over a few days. I have used a metric bolt as the metric tap will cut new threads and does work. Again using Red Loctite.

On a restoration I use a new/used trail-shaft, chase the threads and clean out the bolt hole. Pick an in good condition factory bolt, run a die down the bolt threads and use mineral spirts to clean.

Last edited by davebw31; August 26th, 2018 at 09:14 PM.
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Old August 27th, 2018, 09:26 AM
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That bolt has been over torqued, it's stretched. Is it grade 5?
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