How much money would you guys save up before taking an engine to a machine shop? Im going to be taking my 403 i just recently acquired. Im saving money right now. I was thinking $1000.

Its going to be a basic rebuild. Keeping everything stock if possible

 

$2500 - 5000 depending on what the machine shop needs to do.

 

Thanks man!

 

You should be able to get a written estimate from the machine shop. If they dont want to provide one, then look around for a different shop.

 

Im currently looking on other forums and seeing what others are saying about the machine shops in my area. But it seems like someone has something bad to say about every machine shop.

 

Thats a good idea and proably true that someone always has something bad to say, try to view it like the amazon reviews, if you see a common theme its proably true, if theres one or two bad reviews see if you can detemine if the writer is suspect. try to find a place that has some OLDS experience as well, its not a chevy

 

Well i guess while im saving i can do a very good thorough search for a machine shop

 

You should post this on ROP
While your their check out the 403's DR Dan has built.

 

How accurate would it be if they don't open your engine?

My advice is to get recommendations. Word of mouth is always the best form of advertisement.

I brought my 455 to a friend of a friends shop 11 years ago, then bought a house. He was going to get it back together for about 2K. I put that project on the back of my mind to concentrate on the house for a few years. 4-5 years later I inquired about the engine. Nothing done to it which I was OK with because I didn't have much time for the project anyway. Fast forward to Super Storm Sandy. Motor was in the shop, all his equipment was wiped out, and his wife got ill. Family first, so I understood. Countless phone calls and multiple trips out there and I couldn't get the # matching motor back. Finally had to have my friend go to his house. When I got the motor back I brought it to Jack Merkel Racing Engines in Central Islip, NY, which I should have done from day one, but I wanted to save a buck. Before the kids I ran a speed boat with twin 350's and he built both of those for me. Great job but wasn't cheap. He built and Dynoed the 455 out the door for 4K. New distributor & oil filter housing (couldn't find mine). I put it in the Cutlass temporarily about 2 months ago and have about 2,000 miles on it. I couldn't be happier with the way the motor runs.

Yes, long story, but the moral is do it right the first time. It will be in the car a long time (unless you are me) and you don't need problems. Again, word of mouth is the best form of advertisement.

 

hahaha! Im about to start a new thread right now

 

About to right now

 

The heads alone would be about 1000 for new valves, milling, valve job, cleaning, rockers. It would help with costs if you purchased the internals like pistons, cam etc and gave them the parts if they will be doing the assembly this way they don't make a profit on the parts sale to you.

 

But say if the block needed to be bored, wouldnt they have to purchased the internals and machine them to fit? So if i bought the internals be beforehand, i would then loae money right?

 

True but if you knew the engine has never been apart before you can figure on pistons and rings .030 over size and the cam wont change in size if you are changing it. You can also say to the shop that you would get the parts and they can tell you the sizes. Maybe their prices would be fair or maybe you could get them cheaper, just something to look into.

 

ahhhh! Ok. Thanks! I always wondered how that worked.

 

Don't do that. Stock compression ratio and camshaft were pathetic. Bump the compression up into the 9.x:1 range and get a larger camshaft.

 

I'd save 2500.00 before I walked in the door.. Cost from there depends on options..
2500 should cover a baic rebuild, unless it needs major parts, a cracked head, crank is junk, rod(s).. Even if the heads need all 16 guides.. 2500 should be it +/- .
Now comes the options,
Do you want the compression upped, do you want the deck blueprinted, do you want basic rebuilder pistons that are down the hole , or performance ones with correct piston height. (rebuilder pistons expect the deck to be milled and why they are shorter)
cam shaft going roller add 1200.
going with a more aggressive lobe , need strounger valve springs,etc.. ADd$$
head work, bigger valves, back cut valves ,bowl work/etc.. this all cost extra .
or use the parts you have in the heads (valves) and r&r them?
The shop you go to should be able to price out wht each job will cost..
head mill
block mill
block hot tank
block heads crank rods mag test
resize rod big end,
install new pistons on rods
valve job
replace guides
grind crank,
you should be able to walk out with a list that if it doesn't need any major hard parts add up and get a ballpark $$


If you run a flat tappet cam it might be money ahead to have them fire up the engine after rebuild and break in the cam.. this way if it fails they get to rebuild it at their cost..
You breaking it in and something goes south, you are on the hook..
good luck..

 

X2. Mine is a 71' block originally 8.5:1. It's camed up and now has 10:1 compression at .30 over, Q-jet on top of a 70' W-455 aluminum intake and stock exhaust. I run 93 octane and have no problems, knock wood, and it responds well when my right foot spasms toward the floor board. I even pulled a small trailer with me into VT & the Adirondack Park up and down the local routes. Rear springs aren't too happy but limited trunk space. I may look into a lighter, smaller aluminum trailer when I get home.

It cost and extra $400 to Dyno mine which in essence was done specifically for the cam break in. Again, it was 4K out the door. Spend more now in a reputable shop and you will have no regrets later.

 

Man thanks for the info. This was VERY helpful

 

Im going to just keep saving up my cash. I want it done right the first time