Boilerz25

So I am close to pulling the motor and trans in my 69 442 but, one thing is stumping me. I have disconnected all linkage, lines, etc, to the trans and all engine-related items. The trans tail shaft is the question. I was anticipating two bolts to release the front yoke from the U-joint but that doesn't appear to be possible. Does the trans tail shaft have splines that slide out of the trans body? I am stumped so anyone with experience with pulling motor / trans please chime in.

Thanks
Sean

MDchanic

I'm not entirely clear on what you mean, but to remove the driveshaft, you remove the four screws that hold the two yokes that retain the bearing cups of the rear universal on the input shaft of the differential, then you unseat the universal from its cradle, then you pull the driveshaft rearward to pull the slipyoke out of the back of the transmission.

Be sure to have a tub under the back of the transmission when you do this, as plenty of oil will make its exit. Leave the tub there as you work, as more oil will come out every time you move the car, and if you pull the transmission attached to the engine, when it tips up, all the rest of the oil will come out.

- Eric

gmsteve455

What he said is correct, unbolt from the differential and then slide the yoke with driveshaft out of the trans.

My only addition is that you can get plugs for the tailshaft of the transmission to keep fluid from pouring out every time you move it. A friendly transmission shop may even let you borrow one or tell you where to buy one.

Good luck.

Steve

MDchanic

Do these really work? I always feared that they would hold against a minor slosh, giving you a false sense of security, then pop off when you tipped the engine up, giving you a big surprise.

If they work, I'll throw one in the toolchest for next time, myself!

- Eric

Koda

We use them on the assembly line, Eric. Re-use them, in fact.

coppercutlass

I have used an old yoke ducktaped to the trans and a plug too. The plug I got from hbt and it worked great .

gmsteve455

They fit pretty snug but if you are worried about knocking it out you could always plug it and then put some duck tape around it to the tailshaft to be sure. There isn't a lot of pressure there since a lot of the fluid is lower than the tailshaft in the pan but I suppose it can be under a little pressure if the trans is closer to vertical coming out of the car with the engine.

-Steve

MDchanic

Good to know, thanks!

- Eric

Boilerz25

Guys, thanks for the input. This is exactly what I did and everything went smoothly. The exception being I was not prepared for the rapid dump of fluid. I do think the plug on the tail shaft would be useful when reinstalling to help limit the mess.

Thanks again

Sean

MDchanic

No one ever is, "the first time."

- Eric

69CutlassAlex

x2

You can also just slip a rubber glove over the tail shaft and secure it with a rubber band to keep any fluid from draining on to your garage floor.

HonestDave

The first one I ever did was in the early eighties. I pulled the motor out with the tranny, and red fluid ran down the newly paved lane. My immediate neighbors were not amused.

2Olds4U

x2+ on the trans plug. Used them a few times. They fit snug enough not to fall out. Harbor Freight has them too.

HonestDave

Most people I know seem to just use the front splined section of a drive shaft to plug the hole. I don't bother. I always drain them into a tub and do a new rear seal. Good opportunity for a fluid change, although ATF is getting a bit more expensive lately.
At least the seals are cheap.

2Olds4U

Good point, Dave. In as much as both of my 67's are 4 speeds and the only reason other than pulling the whole shebang would be to swap a clutch, I would have no need to change the fluid. Best kept in the tranny. Besides, that 90W makes the whole house stink when it gets on your clothes. My wife would go ballistic.
Cars are still here. Wife long gone.

Alex72cutty

Good info!! I'm taking my motor and trans out tomorrow.. I will stop by harbor freight and get a plug..