Does anyone know why a carburetor would keep flooding.. I'm my garage it starts and sounds good but every time I take it on the road it floods and dies. My old carburetor did this and now I replaced it with with one from summit and it does the same thing floods and fuel even over flows.. My car is a 1972 cutlass supreme stock 350 with a Rochester quadrajet.. Has any one hade this problem

 

what is your fuel pump pressure? more than 6-7 psi is asking for trouble.
does your car have a fuel return line to the tank? is it plugged?


bill

 

Agreed. High fuel pump pressure would be the number one thought, followed by just plain bad luck in getting two carburetors with problems with the needle and seat or the float.

- Eric

 

The car is all stock so it does not have a fuel pressure gauge not sure how to check that with out one.. As for the fuel return line it should have one since it's a 1972.. I will go in the garage and look at it.. Cross my fingers its just a plugged return fuel line

 

How would I control the fuel pressure

 

Get a new fuel pump.
If you've got a stock pump, there should be no need for an external regulator.

- Eric

 

I will replace the fuel pump as its only a few bucks and it looks like a simple job.. But I feel it could be something else because it starts fine and it sounds good at idle but when I run it on the road it stalls then I wait for about 15 to 20 min.. Then it starts up so I return home and when I look at the carburetor there's fuel dripping on my intake.. Could the fuel be getting good to hot??

 

Just checked the fuel return line and it's not plugged so I will scratch that off my list as possible problems

 

there have been many reports of new fuel pumps that have too high fuel pressure straight out of the box.

before you start throwing parts at it, buy a vacuum/pressure gauge, you'll be glad you did, down the road.


bill

 

I agree with the other posts. I have seen lots of " new " mech. fuel pumps have way too much press. for the Q-jet Float set up. Change the pump!!

Danny

 

I will replace the fuel pump as its only a few bucks and it looks like a simple job.. But I feel it could be something else because it starts fine and it sounds good at idle but when I run it on the road it stalls then I wait for about 15 to 20 min.. Then it starts up so I return home and when I look at the carburetor there's fuel dripping on my intake.. Could the fuel be getting good to hot??

 

I vote bad needle seat, clogged breather filter comes to mind also. Oh how about checking the fuel filter?

 

I will replace the fuel pump as its only a few bucks and it looks like a simple job.. But I feel it could be something else because it starts fine and it sounds good at idle but when I run it on the road it stalls then I wait for about 15 to 20 min.. Then it starts up so I return home and when I look at the carburetor there's fuel dripping on my intake.. Could the fuel be getting good to hot??

 

??????????????????????

 

I will replace the fuel pump as its only a few bucks and it looks like a simple job.. But I feel it could be something else because it starts fine and it sounds good at idle but when I run it on the road it stalls then I wait for about 15 to 20 min.. Then it starts up so I return home and when I look at the carburetor there's fuel dripping on my intake.. Could the fuel be getting good to hot??

 

al, you seem to be re-posting the same thing...


bill

 

Sry.. Something wrong with this computer keeps posting same post... Bill I did find a vacuum/pressure gauge in the garage but the way it says to check is to T off from fuel pump to carb but mine has a steel pipe.. Don't know how I would do that with out cutting the steel pipe

 

there's a test port somewhere I'd assume.......

 

disconnect the output line fitting and connect the gauge to the output fitting. you may have to use some sort of adapter setup. just make sure it doesn't leak. you should be able to start and run the engine for about 30 seconds before the carb. goes dry. watch the gauge while you rev the motor up to about 2500 rpm-see if the pressure ever exceeds 6-7 psi. if it does, you've found your problem(most likely).


bill

 

Well I got a new fuel pump and just put it in.. Started the car and it sounds good but it's late and I can't test drive it till tomorrow cross my fingers the problem is solve..

 

Clean up them secondary plates!!! =P Let us know!!!!!!

 

Okay today I took it out for a test run and it ran like champ.. No flooding and the car did not die on me.. If a bad fuel pump was my problem I would have never guessed it.. So I'm crossing my fingers again.. There's. A good guys car show coming up soon and I really want to go in my car and not have it die on me.. So thanks to all of you for your advice

 

ok.. Just when I thought it was fixed it flooded again.. Will hot fuel make my car stall while driving.. Fuel boil over will a carburetor spacer help this

 

From your first post, you said it was flooding.

Are you certain that that is what it is doing?

Stalling out under heavy loads while hot could well be a bad coil or condenser.

- Eric

 

Is the temp within normal operating range?
Yes, a 3/8 heat spacer will help, if it's heat related.

 

Yes it floods and it dies it just before a stop or red light.. When I open the hood I can see fuel dripping. From the throttle shaft like it's getting to much fuel and over flowing.. When I got the car back home I noticed a small crack in my gas tank like a drop every couple of minutes will that cause any of my issues.. The only other thing I changed was the air cleaner for a K n M extreme top and bottom

 

I installed a 1" spacer hope that helps and the air cleaner

 

Hole in the gas tank needs to be fixed...... that can allow air into the lines, make the pump work harder etc....... I'm not sure if this also would cause more than 7psi through the line due to the pump may be working a bit harder. I'm not saying the new pump is faulty just overcompensating because of the crack in your tank. Get the crack fixed/new tank and see how it goes from there.........I'd probably use some JB Water Weld or some other kind of epoxy to temporarily seal the crack and see if your problem goes away, then you can get a new tank.

 

Regardless of whether a crack in your tank causes that issue or not, I would stop whatever you're doing and make replacing that tank a priority. You don't want to lose your car to fire, trust me. There is no more helpless a feeling than to sit on the side of the road and watch the bonfire that was your car.

 

Hey Mechanic I installed a partronix so I removed the condenser I also installed a flame thrower coil.. My question is does the coil go bad all at once or does it start going bad a little at a time till its dead

 

Coils get hot, then they crap out. Then they cool and work again, then get hot, then they crap out. Put a Blaster 2 coil on it and see if it does it again. I bet it doesn't.

 

Thanks guy I got a tank on order right now I don't want to just patch it and have to worry I'm driving with a hole in my tank.. Safety first..

 

Ah64pilot I'm going to look one up and buy it.. Quick question my coil now is bolted to my intake could that be the reason it's getting hot? When I get the new one I'm going to try to install it on the firewall that should help...

 

Firewall mounting will help it stay cooler...make sure you get a good mount with 2 attaching points for the firewall. Mount the coil with the wires facing up. Believe it or not coils are filled with a liquid to help keep them cool. The bladder inside of them can wear out and the coil will leak this fluid out. Mounting it in the upright position will help deter this problem. Here's a pic of mine mounted so you have an idea:

 

Wow nice and clean looking engine good jod.. And I see what you mean about the coil.. Mine is on the intake and ons its side. Guess I'm asking. For trouble

 

since we don't actually know the fuel pump pressure, let's grasp at more straws...

the next thing i'd check is the needle and seat in the carb, and the weight of the float.


bill

 

Hey Bill I just got the carburetor last week from summit so I'm not sure I can open it with out voiding the warranty will have to call summit first.. But I looked around and found out I have a small crack in my gas tank.. Could this cause the fuel pressure to fluctuate in any way.. Bdub217 said it he's not sure but it could cause the fuel pump to work harder as air could get in the in the fuel lines???

 

Hi Al:
I have a similar car, 71 Supreme, 350 4bbl, all stock. Your new carburetor looks like the correct model for the year, all of the hoses, connections and Choke all look correct.
I recently had my carburetor rebuilt. I just used a stock Felpro gasket on the stock iron intake and did not use any spacers. I have not had any overheating carburetor issues or choke issues. My ignition coil is still the original 41 year old coil, bolted to the Intake manifold.

Where is your carburetor leaking from? Is it just one spot or several? Can you post pictures of the leaking area?
You replaced the carburetor recently, was the old carburetor also a correct Quadra jet for a 72?


Do you still have the old carburetor?
What was wrong with the old carburetor? Can you swap it back?
Who was the last person to adjust your two idle mixture screws and one-idle speed screw? The reason I ask, is because if your "Idle-Speed-screw" is set too "Closed", you will close off your primaries when you take your foot off the gas. This can cause some mild flooding issues that act like an Off-idle stumble/bog.
When the car floods, does it always happen when you slow down and stop, or do you have problems at speed too?


Ps: Replace the gas tank, Straps and fuel sending unit.

 

Hi.. Miles, where do I start. yes the old carburetor looked to be original to the car but when I got the car it had already been rebuild once the.. I noticed it started leaking/dripping fuel hard to tell where it was coming from but the drip came from the screw that adjusts the choke idle its on the primary shaft on the passenger side also the the gasket on the top horn plate gets very soaked and fuel even comes out the accelerated pump on top.. When I think it's running good I take it out for a run.. It will run good and sound good and after a few stops I will come to a stop or red light and I can feel it starting to die I try pumping the gas to keep it alive but it dies.. When I look at the carburetor I can see it dripping from the screw like it's over flooded and runs down the side the car ran good till I noticed that drip got it rebuilt and still did it that's why I got a new rebuilt one thinking the other one was shot... I changed the fuel pump thinking the other one could be bad and still that drip..

 

Same carbs can you see the fuel soaked gasket and the fuel by the accelerated pump that's after for just a minute