headers for 69 4 speed
headers for 69 4 speed
I know its been asked before but I have a 1969 442 4 speed car what header fits a 4 speed car without beating the hell out of the tubes hedman or hooker or best fitting with minimal ajustments
I have a W-31 spec 350 with Hooker 1-5/8 primaries, Flowmaster 2.5 inch full length exhaust. Hooker works ok for me but the right front brake line needed to be moved a bit where it approaches the proportioning valve on the frame. Works with factory starter and tall filter but its tight with the starter. Installed by lifting engine out, laying headers in and lowering engine down.
The brake line is close to the tubes on any header in my experience. I move the brake distribution block to the top of the frame, and used one of the unused clutch pivot mounts to hold it in place. Obviously with a 4 speed car that’s not an option.
Thanks Joe specifically a 1969 442 with 4 speed I want to know if any header fits around the Z bar without having to modify the header, obviously the proportioning valve needs to be moved but want to buy coated headers so want the best fit .
If you want the best fit, buy good headers. The first set of headers I bought for my car were the cheapest I could find, it took lots of dimpling and work to get them to fit. The Hooker headers that are on the car now have bigger tubes than any I had before, and fit perfectly.
Installing headers in 4-speed A Body
Back in the day, when I had my '69 4-4-2, I installed Hedman headers. Though it's been literally decades, I don't recall any required customization of any of the tubes. If installing the headers with the engine in the car, you will have to remove the starter, bell crank and clutch linkage. Then from underneath the car you will have to juggle all three pieces (starter, crank, header) to get the header lined up. An Assistant is a HUGE help. For the bell-crank, disconnect from the frame rail, leaving the ball-stud in place on the block. I found it helpful to pre-install the rear bolt in the block just enough to seat the threads well, then slide the header's rear bolt slot under the bolt to help align things (and hold the weight of the header). Then install the front bolt loosely, but do not tighten any of the header bolts! Then either the bell crank or starter can be installed next, before tightening any of the header bolts. Once the header bolts are tightened, the starter, if original size, will not fit between the pan/block and header, nor will you be able to thread the bell crank between the long tubes of cylinders five and seven.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Last edited by BackInTheGame; Jul 15, 2020 at 05:56 AM. Reason: clarity
If you want the best fit, buy good headers. The first set of headers I bought for my car were the cheapest I could find, it took lots of dimpling and work to get them to fit. The Hooker headers that are on the car now have bigger tubes than any I had before, and fit perfectly.
Back in the day, when I had my '69 4-4-2, I installed Hedman headers. Though it's been literally decades, I don't recall any required customization of any of the tubes. If installing the headers with the engine in the car, you will have to remove the starter, bell crank and clutch linkage. Then from underneath the car you will have to juggle all three pieces (starter, crank, header) to get the header lined up. An Assistant is a HUGE help. For the bell-crank, disconnect from the frame rail, leaving the ball-stud in place on the block. I found it helpful to pre-install the rear bolt in the block just enough to seat the threads well, then slide the header's rear bolt slot under the bolt to help align things (and hold the weight of the header). Then install the front bolt loosely, but do not tighten any of the header bolts! Then either the bell crank or starter can be installed next, before tightening any of the header bolts. Once the header bolts are tightened, the starter, if original size, will not fit between the pan/block and header, nor will you be able to thread the bell crank between the long tubes of cylinders five and seven.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Best of luck.
Hooker 3202 (1 7/8") do not work with a manual trans, 3902(1 3/4") work with a manual trans in a '69 w/BBO. The difference is the collector size, 3 1/2 vs 3"
Hmmm, the old Hookers I had on the car were 1 3/4, that must have been what I remembered. I replaced them about 20 years ago with the 1 7/8, had them recoated about 5 years ago. Still in very good shape.
Last edited by matt69olds; Jul 16, 2020 at 06:11 PM.
Yes, ARH headers (American Racing Headers). I installed them on my '69 442 4spd without modifications. It's tight but they fit. Had to disconnect the motor mounts and lift the engine a bit to fit them in...no big deal though.
I have a RobbMc mini starter. Not sure about the fit with a stock starter. Nice headers.
I have a RobbMc mini starter. Not sure about the fit with a stock starter. Nice headers.
Last edited by alburk; Jul 16, 2020 at 11:57 AM. Reason: add detail
Yes, ARH headers (American Racing Headers). I installed them on my '69 442 4spd without modifications. It's tight but they fit. Had to disconnect the motor mounts and lift the engine a bit to fit them in...no big deal though.
I have a RobbMc mini starter. Not sure about the fit with a stock starter. Nice headers.
I have a RobbMc mini starter. Not sure about the fit with a stock starter. Nice headers.
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