Looking for some input on headers. For a 400 i believe 1 3/4 diameter seems to be the norm and it seems like longer pipes would be better in mid to upper rpms. I have seen some ads for stainless that are below $200 and that screams to me that they might be poorly manufactured. Strikes me that mild steel pipes with a nice coat of high temp paint should do the job. Ceramic coated sound good but are they worth the extra $$$?

Thanks in advance for your comments.

 

I always used Hooker headers back in the day with great results and longevity (black painted). Had them on my '69 442, '69 Firebird and '78 Trans Am.

 

I say Hookers, they fit nice and work. I went ceramic since I was doing a new engine but if cost is a factor paint will work- for a while.
You may/will have to move the brake distribution valve upwards and outboard. On my 70 it cleared the OEM style starter by plenty (remove for install).
You will need to remove oil filter or possibly the adapter also on the RH side. Put car on jackstands pretty high, disconnect steering shaft?
One more thing is their instructions say to modify the shift linkage. I did not really follow the instructions much on that and just red necked it and bent it some too clear.
I did this will re-installing my engine so it was easier for me.

 

American Racing Headers, not cheap, just the best.

 

I'm running Hooker 3902 (black) headers on my current '68 4-4-2. On the '69 4-4-2 (455) and '68 Cutlass S (350) in my signature I ran Hedman headers. I've never had a problem with any of them. For both of the four-speeds, I had to massage one tube (#7) with a BFH to fit over the bell crank without rubbing, but other than that, no issues with fitment. They are easier to install on the 400/455 if you drop the starter and the oil filter, and raise the car onto jack stands. The 350 units went down from the top with no issues other than loosening/moving the steering shaft. YMMV

 

I am trying to decide between the Hooker 3902 and the Headman 58150...

 

The hooker headers fit well on my 69. When I rebuilt the brakes years ago I moved the brake valve on top of the frame, I used one of the factory holes for the clutch linkage. If you trim the ears off the transmission case the transmission will just slip between the headers. No more trying to angle the transmission, dropping one ear at a time around the headers, and the resulting bath of ATF in your hair. Of course, trimming off the ears eliminates the possibility of using the inspection cover. Better airflow over the converter, better cooling.

 

Actually those cheap Stainless headers are well made, thick flanges and fit nicely on a BBO. They are advertised for both SBO and BBO. They hang low on a SBO but that is expected, being a copy of the BBO Hooker Competition headers. There has been quality and fitment issues with some of the name brand headers lately.

 

Just installed Doug’s Headers 1 7/8” long tube on my ‘68 442. The fit was absolutely perfect.

 

what was the part number. here is link: https://shop.dougsheaders.com/shopby...400-455-117751

 

I went with D743, ceramic 1 7/8”. FYI the larger tube 1 7/8” doesn’t have room for an oil dipstick. I need a mini starter for my higher compression 455 but the stock starter still fits with these headers.