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I have a 72 Cutlass S with the 350 stock motor. I do not have any gauges. I am looking at the 3 gauge cluster with oil pressure, water temp and voltmeter.
I really like the Marshall Instruments on OPGI, but for the money I think I am going to go with Bosch gauges for now. I like the black face with white numbers and red pointer.
I'm not sure whether to go with electrical or mechanical. Any recommendations?
...I'm not sure whether to go with electrical or mechanical. Any recommendations?
The only choice you'll have is with the oil pressure guage. There are pros and cons to both types. Hooking up a mechanical one eliminates any worry about electrical failure. However, you're left with keeping your eye on the plumbing for any eventual leakage. If you hook it up properly and then retighten the plumbing after 14 days service, it should stay sound
It sounds like you have decided on analog gauges. If so, I'll agree that the ones with 270 degree sweep are easier to read. For oil pressure I usually do mechanical, but try to avoid the plastic tubing. For the water temperature I usually do electrical. And the voltage, of course, is electrical. Try to always use quality gauges.
If you use a mechanical oil pressure gauge, spend the additional money for a braided line with AN fittings. Do it right once, and don’t worry about leaks. The nylon lines eventually leak, copper can break.
When the nylon breaks under the dash, you will know when your foot becomes covered in hot oil. When you fix the leak, then comes the joy of cleaning oil off the carpet. If it breaks under hood, hopefully you notice the oil burning or oil smell before running the engine out of oil.
I replaced the 25 year old Autometer mechanical gauges last winter with electric. I really like the new gauges, it’s much easier running wires instead of the plumbing. The new electrics also have programmable LED warning lamps that come on at your programmed set points. Best of both worlds, accurate gauges that give you real numbers, and a warning lamp to get your attention if something goes wrong.
Bosch bought out Sunpro a while back and reproduces the same gauges under their name. You can still find some left over Sunpro at Amazon or buy the Bosch Actron gauge sets.
Autometer makes a line of electric gauges with a similar appearance to the factory dash - p/n 1255 Water Temp, 1253 Oil Pressure, 1282 Volts. a bit pricey but very nicely done and reliable - beautifully backlit as well.
They run over $200 each at full price, I've seen them around $175-ish on sale. Well worth the investment for looks and performance if you can spare the cash.
I have the trio mounted in my '72 Cutlass ragtop, in an under-dash woodgrain center console that one of our board members makes patterned after the factory 8-track housing. In that setting they look completely in theme with the factory dash as opposed to the usual aftermarket offerings typically mounted in a black or chrome multi-hole frame. .
MATT69Olds talks about braided AN line. What is this and where do you get it?? I need to replace the line on my 68 Cutlass 350. I was going to use copper. I dont like the plastic.
I read one review of a different braided line saying the Bosch and SunPro gauges with the compression fitting on the back of the gauge need an adapter for the braided line to connect. According to the Q&A on the site, the one above has the correct fitting.
If anyone ends up needing one, a reviewer said get a NAPA / Weatherhead 202X3 fitting.
Personally I prefer the look of the Stewart warner green line gauges. Closest to looking stock in a 70, 71, 72 Cutlass. All mechanical gauges. Note the Green Line tach.
Appreciate all the comments and advice. I would love to go with Stewart Warner or the Autometer gauges, but I have some other items that are going to take care of my budget for the short term, like installing a new Cloyes timing chain and getting my quadrajet rebuilt. The Bosch gauges I'm looking at have a nice look for a great price and they have 270 visibilty. I will definitely replace the plastic line.
Checked out the link on Speedway for the braided pressure line. What length would you recommend? And where should I connect for my oil pressure?
Also would you recommend replacing the temp sensor for the warning light, and using that same location for a mechanical sensor for water temp?
MATT69Olds talks about braided AN line. What is this and where do you get it?? I need to replace the line on my 68 Cutlass 350. I was going to use copper. I dont like the plastic.
Checked out the link on Speedway for the braided pressure line. What length would you recommend? And where should I connect for my oil pressure?
Also would you recommend replacing the temp sensor for the warning light, and using that same location for a mechanical sensor for water temp?
The oil pressure line will thread into the port that the original oil pressure switch was in. It’s above the water pump, on the drivers side.
Do you have a shot of what your console looks like with the gauges. I was planning on doing the 3 gauge cluster in the black housing under the dash. Your setup sounds much nicer This is for 70's geek
The longest braided line Speedway sells is 48 inch. Would that make it?
I stand corrected. Now that I checked the link matt69 provided, I see they do have a 60 inch brake line that can be used.
You can always coil up the extra hose under the dash out of the way. You can’t stretch a hose that’s too short.
Measure from the oil pressure sender to the firewall. Then measure from the firewall to wherever you plan to install the gauge. Add a few inches, that will give you plenty of hose and “oops” factor.
Do you have a shot of what your console looks like with the gauges. I was planning on doing the 3 gauge cluster in the black housing under the dash. Your setup sounds much nicer This is for 70's geek
Here's what it looked like with the Stewart Warner green line gauges I used to have - they were very nice but randomly erratic and eventually the volt gauge died completely, so I opted to replace them all at that point for the AM's. The console comes covered in matching dash woodgrain and I added the power port which is mounted underneath it.
I believe it's board member W70442 that makes them
Here is a link to the gauge/stereo housings. I think they look awesome and I almost went this route also but I ended up finding a really nice OEM rally pack gauge cluster for a good price from a member here.
Posts: 2
Which Autometer gauge has a warning LED? Exactly what I was looking for. Cannot always keep an eye on the gauges.
Originally Posted by matt69olds
If you use a mechanical oil pressure gauge, spend the additional money for a braided line with AN fittings. Do it right once, and don’t worry about leaks. The nylon lines eventually leak, copper can break.
When the nylon breaks under the dash, you will know when your foot becomes covered in hot oil. When you fix the leak, then comes the joy of cleaning oil off the carpet. If it breaks under hood, hopefully you notice the oil burning or oil smell before running the engine out of oil.
I replaced the 25 year old Autometer mechanical gauges last winter with electric. I really like the new gauges, it’s much easier running wires instead of the plumbing. The new electrics also have programmable LED warning lamps that come on at your programmed set points. Best of both worlds, accurate gauges that give you real numbers, and a warning lamp to get your attention if something goes wrong.
You could just screw in a T-fitting to where the oil pressure sender was originally located and then run both your line and original sender. That way, you could keep the original idiot light function, while enjoying an operational pressure guage
Originally Posted by Skydog9
Checked out the link on Speedway for the braided pressure line. What length would you recommend? And where should I connect for my oil pressure?...
If, like the Chevy Smallblocks, the pressure sender is located at the rear of the block near the distributor, I'd hook up a hose from there to the firewall. Then from the firewall to the guage, I'd run either steel- or aluminum tubing. Copper will get brittle, through vibration. You could even use it. But, you'd have to be meticulous about securing a vibration-free mounting of both tubing and guage. If you've got a rough idle due to a performance camshaft, I wouldn't even bother with using copper
Last edited by Killian_Mörder; Nov 25, 2020 at 10:01 PM.
You need a 4 or 5 ft braided hose for the oil pressure sensor. Flexible and heat resistant. The oil pressure port is just behind the water pump on the Olds V8, so it has to go across the motor.
I'd run the metal line across the intake manifold and fasten it to the bolts securing the valvecover and not copying this tinkerer's bright idea of running the tie-wrapped battery cable along where it isn't supposed to . It looks like there's enough room for adding a T-fitting, if you prefer keeping the idiot light operational. As shown in yellow, running the tube to the rear of the "Moter" will prevent unnecessary waste of braided hose. Since metal doesen't suffer biological aging, there will be that much less hose to replace, as soon as it's time to:
Hey Will,
I bought the Autometer Sport Comp Oil Pressure, Water Temp and Voltmeter gauges. I got the mechanical oil pressure and I have braided line installed. Everything else is electrical. I would like to connect my lights to the headlamp switch, but don't see how to get to it. I got the inline fuse for the water temp gauge as Autometer suggested. Any recommendations as to where to get my power?
Hey Will,
I bought the Autometer Sport Comp Oil Pressure, Water Temp and Voltmeter gauges. I got the mechanical oil pressure and I have braided line installed. Everything else is electrical. I would like to connect my lights to the headlamp switch, but don't see how to get to it. I got the inline fuse for the water temp gauge as Autometer suggested. Any recommendations as to where to get my power?
Look for a gray wire under the dash. You can tap into it for your lights.
I do have a clock. What is my alternative now.
Also what is a good place for power to my temp gauge. I already have a couple of things tapped into the ign blade at the fuse panel.
This is for 70's geek
. It looks like there's enough room for adding a T-fitting, if you prefer keeping the idiot light operational. As shown in yellow, running the tube to the rear of the "Moter" will prevent unnecessary waste of braided hose. Since metal doesen't suffer biological aging, there will be that much less hose to replace, as soon as it's time to:
