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Hey Guys,
I was looking at an 83 Hurst Olds.
Where is the best G-body Website that has good info on these cars?
I've done a Google search and didn't find much.
Thought maybe someone here that follows the G-bodies might chime in.
Thanks!
Not with standing the fact there are some knowledgeable G-Body members here, you can also try GbodyOlds.com... Here's a link: https://www.gbodyolds.com/
Hey Guys,
I was looking at an 83 Hurst Olds.
Where is the best G-body Website that has good info on these cars?
I've done a Google search and didn't find much.
Thought maybe someone here that follows the G-bodies might chime in.
Thanks!
Had a 1984 Hurst/Old new. Not very fast or good handling. Sure the 83 is the same. Lighting Rods are real fun, in so many ways. 84 has the better 8.5 rear end the 83 has 7.5 rear end. Not a big deal, if you are not going to add a lot of power.
Took the 84H/O and made own highly modified creation. "IT'S ALIVE" now.
Had a 1984 Hurst/Old new. Not very fast or good handling. Sure the 83 is the same. Lighting Rods are real fun, in so many ways. 84 has the better 8.5 rear end the 83 has 7.5 rear end. Not a big deal, if you are not going to add a lot of power.
Took the 84H/O and made own highly modified creation. "IT'S ALIVE" now.
Thanks. Has a modified 1972 Olds 350. I like the older G-bodies. Not the flat brick wall nose of the old Oldsmobiles. I am sure it cuts the air resistance. I am in my mid 60's. Drove all the 70's cars. And they are great!
My heart belong to the mid to late 80's cars. And the 1970 Buick 350 GS I inherited. I wish I never give to my nephew.
Fell to love with 83 H/O first time I saw it. Bought the 84 the next year. Good ride and gas mileage. 4 speed auto. 3.73 rear gears. 307 Olds 180 H.P.
Let me know any question you have, I crawled, modified and worked on almost every inch of my G-body myself. Have a lot of knowledge about them.
The 83 H/O has a slightly different parts assembly depending on the build date. They also came with OPTIONAL air shocks later in production. Early cars didn't have this availability. I don't know what the VIN break was for this option. All came with the F41 HD suspension package.
Although the 83 H/O mechanically was just a smidgen less capable than the 84 H/O. But the black over silver paint scheme seems to retain better popularity overall than the 84, thus the paint is what carries the 83 H/O to normally higher prices than the 84s on average.
The engine was a typical 307 LV2 but had better cam/springs than normal, along with the thicker crank balancer (found typically on 350s/455s), and a specific carburetor number 17083553. Along with the dual snorkel air cleaner. The dual exhaust isn't really duals. I think they called them dual outlet exhaust. It split just after the cat converter.
The car was based on the Calais G47 body style, and could be had with most, but not all, Calais factory options. If it got in the way of appearance or otherwise being an H/O, you probably wouldn't be able to get a particular option. Like body side moldings for one were a no-no from the factory. And there was the chrome trim and wheel well molding and snake blinder delete RPO codes along with the W40. All top options were available from the factory as well.
Sand Gray (cloth) or Maple (vinyl or cloth) interior. If you got the rear defogger, they put the factory switch on the dash center vent plate but C&C put the Hurst/Olds ID plate there. So, they installed the defogger switch (not the factory one for whatever reason) on the lower dash left of the steering column.
They had old-style radios with the volume and tuner ***** on either side of the face. They went 1.5 DIN for the radio in 84.
There's also differences in the Cruise Control. They used K35 cruise utilizing the dual speedo cable and mechanical transducer under the hood. The 84s went to the "new" electronic cruise control RPO K34.
If the car was well taken care of, that's good. But with G-bodies check the rear frame rails for corrosion. They tended to rust right out!!! Also belly pans tend to get hosed if the car had T-tops as most leaked at some point and since they didn't do a good job of rust prevention under the T-top components, rust and holes formed under the surface and by the time they were noticed, the damage was already done. So check the floor pans well also.
Paperwork like a window sticker or dealer purchase orders, etc., helps, but you need to ensure that the VIN has this look to it: 1G3AK479?DM?????? The "9" is the key to ensure it's a Hurst/Olds VIN. (first question mark is the check digit which could be any number or an X for 10. The last 6 are, well, the sequential car number in Lansing. As usual, all 83 H/Os were built in Lansing.
There SHOULD also be a body tag bolted to the cowl in the typical location behind the hood seal under the driver wiper arm. It should have W40 stamped on it.
I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff. Hope this answered some of your questions.
Wow! That's some very good info! I really appreciate it! The car I was looking at had the gray interior and looked like a factory moonroof with 38,000 miles. It ended up selling before I had a chance to look at it. The search continues!
Originally Posted by 69HO43
What would you like to know about the 83 H/O?? Does the owner know the C&C conversion (Hurst) number by chance? 1 out of 3001.
The 83 H/O has a slightly different parts assembly depending on the build date. They also came with OPTIONAL air shocks later in production. Early cars didn't have this availability. I don't know what the VIN break was for this option. All came with the F41 HD suspension package.
Although the 83 H/O mechanically was just a smidgen less capable than the 84 H/O. But the black over silver paint scheme seems to retain better popularity overall than the 84, thus the paint is what carries the 83 H/O to normally higher prices than the 84s on average.
The engine was a typical 307 LV2 but had better cam/springs than normal, along with the thicker crank balancer (found typically on 350s/455s), and a specific carburetor number 17083553. Along with the dual snorkel air cleaner. The dual exhaust isn't really duals. I think they called them dual outlet exhaust. It split just after the cat converter.
The car was based on the Calais G47 body style, and could be had with most, but not all, Calais factory options. If it got in the way of appearance or otherwise being an H/O, you probably wouldn't be able to get a particular option. Like body side moldings for one were a no-no from the factory. And there was the chrome trim and wheel well molding and snake blinder delete RPO codes along with the W40. All top options were available from the factory as well.
Sand Gray (cloth) or Maple (vinyl or cloth) interior. If you got the rear defogger, they put the factory switch on the dash center vent plate but C&C put the Hurst/Olds ID plate there. So, they installed the defogger switch (not the factory one for whatever reason) on the lower dash left of the steering column.
They had old-style radios with the volume and tuner ***** on either side of the face. They went 1.5 DIN for the radio in 84.
There's also differences in the Cruise Control. They used K35 cruise utilizing the dual speedo cable and mechanical transducer under the hood. The 84s went to the "new" electronic cruise control RPO K34.
If the car was well taken care of, that's good. But with G-bodies check the rear frame rails for corrosion. They tended to rust right out!!! Also belly pans tend to get hosed if the car had T-tops as most leaked at some point and since they didn't do a good job of rust prevention under the T-top components, rust and holes formed under the surface and by the time they were noticed, the damage was already done. So check the floor pans well also.
Paperwork like a window sticker or dealer purchase orders, etc., helps, but you need to ensure that the VIN has this look to it: 1G3AK479?DM?????? The "9" is the key to ensure it's a Hurst/Olds VIN. (first question mark is the check digit which could be any number or an X for 10. The last 6 are, well, the sequential car number in Lansing. As usual, all 83 H/Os were built in Lansing.
There SHOULD also be a body tag bolted to the cowl in the typical location behind the hood seal under the driver wiper arm. It should have W40 stamped on it.
I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff. Hope this answered some of your questions.
January 17th, 2021, 02:56 PM
