Hey all just wondering how many of you use fuel additives (fuel treatment, octane booster, etc.)

Since I've owned my '72 U code Supreme, I've only used 93 octane and it's done well, but I've been kicking around the idea of maybe some Lucas fuel treatment or maybe some octane booster to gain some performance and/or fuel mileage, but don't wanna cause any issues.

What say you?

 

A fuel additive alone will not increase your performance. The engine needs to be tuned to maximize the fuel your running.

 

Agreed...so would checking the plugs be a good indicator of how well it's tuned? Because last time I checked (about 2 weeks ago) my plugs looked perfect.

 

Maybe it's just snake oil, but normally I run 89 in my 67 Cutlass. One day I got Lucas fuel cleaner for another vehicle and decided to throw some in the tank of my Cutlass. That fuel tank got me 17 miles per gallon, when I normally only get 11.

 

The car didn't need fuel additives in 1972. Don't fix what ain't broken. Just put in name brand gas of the correct octane and drive it.

 

This VP additive is the absolute best there is. VP is the leader in racing fuels and second to none. It boosts octane rating by 10 points and 1 32 oz. can will treat 10 gallons of fuel. It's about $20 a can but if bought by the 8 count case,it's cheaper. At $2 a can it adds about $2 per gallon and is much cheaper than racing fuel.

https://proshop.summitracing.com/parts/vpr-2855

 

But they had higher octane gas then too. My car detonates on the best available gas and two bottles of Lucas octane booster per tank manage to keep it at bay. It doesn't improve the car's performance per se, it just allows me to run enough advance to optimize what performance the car has.

 

Threw some Lucas in today and topped off the tank...so far so good. Now I'll see how it affects the gas mileage.

 

Has your engine been rebuilt with higher compression pistons to give it more than the factory 8.5:1 compression ratio?

 

I would say yes....030 bore and W-30 cam, Edelbrock Performer intake, Hooker 3 in long tubes and a 770 Holley Street Avenger.

 

Do you know what pistons were used, or what the cranking cylinder pressure is? Just wondering because sometimes an engine gets rebuilt with a big camshaft and low compression pistons.

 

No idea...I've tried to get that info from the PO who did the work, but he doesn't remember ☹️

 

The only thing I use is fuel stabilizer for it sitting over the winter or when ever I think the same fuel will be sitting in the tank for some time.

 

I don't think it will do much if your car is already in good working order.

I use an octane booster but my engine runs lousy without it. Engine knock/pinging/detonation, and run on, are the issues with just premium gas. My car is set at factory spec, and it requires gas that doesn't readily exist anymore. That's not the case with a factory stock 1972 Olds, and even with your rebuild and cam upgrade etc... I don't think your engine needs more than 93 octane...

Judging by your most recent threads I feel that your cars performance seems lacking to you ? Maybe lack of oomph ? Doesn't move like you think it should ?

Your setup is what may be causing that not the way your engine is running. I think you might have too much stall and possibly too little gear (3.08 rather than 3.73 ?). And it may be numbing your cars vigor on the street. Lets assume the W30 cam that's installed is the 1972 version for an automatic. An original auto 72 W30 had 2 choices for rear gear 3.42 and 3.73 and less stall than you have.

This thread https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ift-kit-92622/ and specifically post 7 to 12 may be of interest to you.

 

I'll never understand why people build their engines so that they can't even run right on pump gas. UNLESS it's purely a drag car, why build it so it'll only run right on race gas (which is like $8-10 per gallon) unless you're just super rich and don't give a ****. I like to drive my car as much as possible and still cringe a bit when I fill it up with midgrade or premium.

 

2800 stall and yep...3.08 gears. I get what you're saying about 3.42 and 3.73, but I'd rather not mess with a #"s matching drivetrain 😀

 

The engine and transmission are the "number matching" parts, and not the rearend. Changing the ring and pinion gear won't alter anything other than the gear ratio; it would be similar to changing the camshaft in the engine.