So I know my 330 won't ever make 600hp, but if I can hit 340hp with what I've got, I'll be happy with that. But what about getting access to as much of that hp as possible? I'm looking at going to electric fans (I've read that it can free up as much as 15hp) and possibly manual steering. Anyone know how much power steering uses? I'm not worried about turning, I've got skinnies up front.

Any other ideas on how to realistically free up some more power?

 

I don’t know how much power manual steering will free up, but i think there was a video Freiburger did that showed parasitic losses. Go to YOUTUBE and do a search. There is power in how air enters the carb, again do a search on YouTube. What are you running for exhaust?

 

Gut out the interior. Take the a/c system off. Install a light drivers seat. Do not fill your gas tank to full. Go on a diet.

 

Currently just stock exhaust manifold through 2.5" true dual straight pipe, exiting out the side in front of the rear wheels.

 

Headers, cold air intake, do a run without the power steering belt to see. If it will run on the alternator at the strip and you can get a run without a line, try without the battery. Lose two headlights, the trim, the grille, the wipers, the washers, the wiper transmission, Lose two taillights, quick bolts on the rear bumper, leave it in the pits. Light shoes, take a dump. Lose the right mirror if you have one, the left if you can get away with it. Console if you have one. Radio and speakers.

 

Power accessories and automatic transmissions are for sissies. 😎

 

Your not going to gain anything by removing the power steering. The pump takes a negligible amount of power to spin when the car is going straight.

If your running a mechanical fan, install a fan with a thermal clutch, or go electric fan. Once again, unless the engine is hot enough for the clutch to engage, the fan is just along for the ride.

I have run my car back to back at the track, with and without the fan. There was zero change. The fan is basically freewheeling until the airflow thru the radiator is hot enough to engage the clutch.

As for power accessories and automatics being for “sissies”, the days of manual transmission superiority are long gone. And if you can run the numbers and be comfortable while doing it there is no need to compensate for other “shortcomings” in life. 💪

 

Have you advanced your timing beyond stock?

 

So sensitive! I guess you haven't seen the Engine Masters fan test. ALL mechanical fans rob horsepower. As far as power steering, removal is more about weight loss than parasitic drag.

BTW, the flexy bicep destroys any credibility......

 

As a matter of fact, I have seen the Engine Master episode your referring to. Since you brought it up, I’m assuming you have seen it as well? If that is in fact the case, your missing the point I’m trying to make.

There is no doubt that a mechanical fan of any kind consumes power. My argument is to use a fan that only takes power onto operate when needed. A flex fan is about as wasteful as you could possibly get. When you start your car on a cold morning, the fan is pulling air, while dragging on the engine. Nice 70 degree day? That mechanical fan is still putting a load on the engine. Of course, when it’s a 100 degrees, the fan is doing its job. Too bad that’s the only time it’s maximum capacity is needed.

The engine masters episode does prove a thermal clutch fan is about as efficient as you can get. The only thing better (as far as engine power lose) is no fan at all. It’s been a while since I saw that episode, but if I remember correctly the thermal fan clutch was within a few hp of no fan at all, which backs up my track tests.

If someone is willing to put some thought and effort into modifying the car correctly, you can enjoy some “sissy” comforts while having a car that runs well. A comfortable car that runs well is far more enjoyable than a stripped down max effort “race car” that is too hot, too noisy, to uncomfortable that might run a couple tenths quicker.

I’ll argue that the performance improvement of installing manual steering, removing the A/C, etc would be far less than removing a mechanical fan. I’m guessing the difference in total vehicle weight between a stripped down car and one that has some options might be MAYBE 200 lbs. Ditching the mechanical fan for a thermal fan clutch (and freeing up the 20-25hp) would improve performance far more than the weight savings.

Of course, if you can improve engine efficiency and cut some weight, that’s obviously a win win.

I guess I am sensitive to this kind of crap. It makes my blood boil seeing some of the hacked up stupid modifications people do to otherwise nice cars, all in the pursuit of a better timeslip. Thankfully, that isn’t as common s it use to be.

Most of us here are old enough to remember when the performance aisle at the parts store was full of supposed go fast parts. Things like those stupid flex fans, the 50000 volt bright yellow ignition coils, universal traction bars, universal carburetors, the list goes on. Most of that crap did NOTHING other than screw up a otherwise decent car. Once the thrill of the purchase was gone (along with any resemblance of a functional reliable car) the Ricky Bobby wanna be needs a new daily driver, the project car either gets sold or neglected.

 

What transmission is in the car now? If you have the 2 speed trans, before doing anything get a TH350 to replace it. There is ZERO tradeoff to the swap.

 

I'm with ya. The sissy comment was half a joke. I'm a member over on a G body board, and the absolute 1st thing most of those clowns do is rip the heaterbox out and install a blockoff plate on the firewall because, you know, racecar.
I'm keeping my 67 442 all manual (brakes, steering, trans, windows, and locks). It does have electric fans and a stereo. Yes, it's almost impossible to park with a coffee in one hand and manual steering in the other, but I consider all that part of the muscle car experience. I have my 85 Bonneville DD for power windows and locks, cruise control, power brakes and steering, etc.

 

Every little tweak with a positive reputation will likely make a difference. The question you'll need to answer is it really worth it.

Perfection !

My first car, 1967 Cutlass 2dr 3 speed on the column came the same way. Drove it for parts of 3 decades. Bare bones can never bother me... I was quicker than similarly powered cars with power options....

Coastie bare bones makes a difference. The quickest original muscle era cars were bare bones. As engine size and power increased options became more standard. Strip the options off of it and it will still be quicker. Lighter weight less engine load are guaranteed performance enhancers no matter what.

 

Go with an all fiberglass body

 

An old rule of thumb, for every 100#'s you gain 1/10 second ET in a 1/4 mile.

 

True dual exhaust, balance pipe, advance timing, 3.42 minimum rear gear, aluminum drums, etc, etc.

All of that and some was done to my 87 442, including manual steering swap, ac delete, aluminum rad swap and any weight savings I could do that would not disturb the cars usefulness. The model has a perfect pass calculation of 16.7 seconds in the 1/4. I whittled it down to 15.1 (the goal was 14s with the stock engine, and no headers, obviously it never happened). Still 15.1 is fairly impressive for that car as many an Olds guy familiar with those models will tell you.

The car was otherwise stock. The 3.73 non posi rear and KZF 4 speed was TV cable adjusted to perfection. It will spank my 69 which has 50 more HP. Setup is everything. The 69s **** poor grocery getter factory setup is leaving 30 HP on the table. The 87 442s performance indicated 30 HP above its factory spec.