Fram Oil Fliters
#41
Well since you print it out like this I will have to try and answer.lets say 1000 under red line about 35%, full throttle we will go with 50% and oil changes every 5000'kms/3100 miles.
#42
You drive a 450hp car on the street at full throttle ½ of the time?
And you're within 1,000 RPM of redline (say 4,500 to 5,500) about ⅓ of the time?
How do you stay out of jail?
Do you own an oil well?
- Eric
And you're within 1,000 RPM of redline (say 4,500 to 5,500) about ⅓ of the time?
How do you stay out of jail?
Do you own an oil well?
- Eric
#43
I don't drive one yet,cutlassefi is going to be building one for me.Well for one you don't screw around in town, highway or race track.This car is a restoration car, not an every day driver, she will be built to have fun.May be not that harsh on her but with that power going to want to play
#44
My point is that the conditions an engine sees during a NASCAR race are radically different than those it sees during any sort of street driving (or at least any kind that won't earn you your own segment on "COPS"), and the best filter for those conditions is probably very different than the best filter for street driving.
Remember, racing cars ran for many years with no air filters at all (maybe they still do) - just stone screens - because damage from abrasive grit was irrelevant to engines that were going to be rebuilt every few thousand miles.
Would you run with no air cleaner?
- Eric
Remember, racing cars ran for many years with no air filters at all (maybe they still do) - just stone screens - because damage from abrasive grit was irrelevant to engines that were going to be rebuilt every few thousand miles.
Would you run with no air cleaner?
- Eric
#45
I agree that they are driven hard, those guy's make $$$.Suppose, different needs are for those engines.Well for sure you need to run a air filter, what ever happened to the old oil bath air filter, was told that was the best. True?
#46
Hmm.... Sooo About Oil filters... I used Fram for a bit on my driver, but looked to all those internet reviews mentioned earlier and made the switch.
I now splurge for the $12 dollar Mobil1 filters - IIR the reviews all said
"they are good but more expensive than the rest" - not to mention the mysterious "synthetic fiber blend" that sounds like I will be able to use it on my space ship too.
Absolutely no difference what so ever. Honestly I just keep getting them because I don't have to double check the part number, good ol' M1-101.
I now splurge for the $12 dollar Mobil1 filters - IIR the reviews all said
"they are good but more expensive than the rest" - not to mention the mysterious "synthetic fiber blend" that sounds like I will be able to use it on my space ship too.
Absolutely no difference what so ever. Honestly I just keep getting them because I don't have to double check the part number, good ol' M1-101.
#48
#50
(I do this all the time ).
I agree that it seems reasonable, but in an engine that runs very differently than a street motor, and is rebuilt far more often, IS it going to filter better, or is it going to flow better, at the possible sacrifice of some filtering?
Not trying to be a buster here, and I'm sure no expert, but I have found that the idea that "the racing stuff is always better" tends to be incorrect, especially when applied to professional racing. I would be very interested in hearing from someone with experience in professional racing who could say something definitive about this.
And, Kyle, I have no idea about oil bath air filters - I would imagine that they offer more resistance to airflow, and they will certainly introduce a small amount of oil into the engine, which would be an emissions no-no from the manufacturers' standpoint. They're a lot heavier as well, for a given amount of air flow.
In general, I have read that synthetic oil will provide better lubrication, and will cling to bearings and other surfaces just a bit better than regular over long periods of storage, but that it may also allow a bit more rust to form in cases of long storage in sub-optimal conditions (no, I don't remember where I read this, sorry - probably Motorcycle Consumer News). It definitely lasts longer, and so will allow greater time between oil changes. This means that if you're going to change the oil every 2,500 miles because that's what your grandfather did, you will see no benefit from this characteristic. Finally, I am not sure about the additive packages in the many types out there, but would want to be sure that the synthetic oil I was using had enough ZDDP / zinc in it to protect my cam lobes.
Also, if Mark is building your engine, I'd just follow his advice on oil and filters.
- Eric
#51
Why are we even having this discussion again??
This is strictly my car enthusiast opinion. I don't have my E-forensic
scientist certification yet to argue this on a higher plateau where it
might be going.
$100,000+ engine running 6,000-10,000 rpms for 3+ hours....
Going to need a higher then average quality oil filtration system to
keep that engine alive under those conditions IMO.
Stumbled onto another oil filter comparison study.
http://www.lesabret.com/filters/filter.html
Last edited by Aceshigh; March 31st, 2011 at 04:46 AM.
#52
Man did this bring tears to my eyes...I was laughing so hard..thanx MD
#53
Kinda getting off topic now.Well every one need's a good nut buster every once and a while.. Mark will be doing the engine, so I leave it in his hands.So then with synthetic oil, what should be the oil change be at. They tell me with my Duramax change oil every 10,000 km's or 6200 miles. I can't believe that, I change every 6000km's or 3800 miles. Give or take a few. What should I do, you take care of your car, it will take car of you. I always try to maintain the car the best it can be
#54
Just from personal experience, I had a nasty tap, that was bad enough I thought it may be a rod bearing before I investigated it further. Changed oil a few times to figure the best grade, to check for contamination..still tapping and low pressure. Changed the Fram to a Wix, without changing the oil. Tap is gone and pressure went up. Enough to convince me
#55
Over here it is normal to change oil 1s a year.
That is aprox at 10,000 or 20,000km
Not had any troubles with all the cars, on a semi or fully synthetic oil.
But this were all younger cars oldest was 1993
i only change more frecuent with 4x4,
and my delta88 once a year at less than 5000km a year.
That is aprox at 10,000 or 20,000km
Not had any troubles with all the cars, on a semi or fully synthetic oil.
But this were all younger cars oldest was 1993
i only change more frecuent with 4x4,
and my delta88 once a year at less than 5000km a year.
#56
I put at least 30,000 km on my truck in a year, she does alot of pulling, but any car I had as well, 5 to 6 thousand km's she gets changed with filter as well. I may be alittle over kill?
#57
What about a car driven on the street 3/4 of the time and raced(90 mile road rally, not drag) 4 or 5 times a year?
#58
mike
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post