Four Core Radiator
#1
Four Core Radiator
Anyone know where is the best place to buy a new 4 core radiator for a 1972 cutlass with A/C, A/T and a 455. Maybe refurbished but new is preferred. I really like using the A/C even with the top down.
#2
I had a local radiator shop put a 4 tube core in my existing tanks. Not sure how he did it but it actually gets wider inboard of the (3 tube) tanks. Fits fine and no modifications to the mounts. Seems like it was about $275.00- not cheap but I like it. I guess you can buy the new type radiators that use aluminum core and plastic tanks, I don't know how good they are.
#3
I had the same thing done with my original radiator. A local shop installed a 4 row high-efficiency core into my original 3 row end tanks, so it fits without any modifications. It works well enough to keep my engine at thermostat temperature during our 115+ degree summers.
It's a Craig #858384 high efficiency core that the shop said was available as a core only and not as a complete radiator.
If your car is already set up for a 4 row radiator, I would look into an aluminum 4 row. That should give you more cooling capability than you will ever need.
I hear ya! Sitting in the middle of a bunch of black vinyl in full sunshine during the summer gets kinda hot. I remember the first summer in my convertible I kept thinking I was a pizza in a brick oven.
It's a Craig #858384 high efficiency core that the shop said was available as a core only and not as a complete radiator.
If your car is already set up for a 4 row radiator, I would look into an aluminum 4 row. That should give you more cooling capability than you will ever need.
I hear ya! Sitting in the middle of a bunch of black vinyl in full sunshine during the summer gets kinda hot. I remember the first summer in my convertible I kept thinking I was a pizza in a brick oven.
Last edited by Fun71; July 13th, 2014 at 05:43 PM.
#4
I know a radiator shop in St. Louis that the owner is a muscle car owner. I think I will ask him if he can do what was done for you guys. Great suggestions. I did not know that could be done. I want a stock look so that would be perfect. Thanks for the help.
#5
#6
Try U.S. Radiator at http://www.usradiator.com/
They can build you a stock looking copper / brass 4-core with a high-efficiency core that will cool better than aluminum. With the cost of recoring today their price is not out of line. Check their dealer list for local dealers, I got mine for less than list price even with shipping.
They can build you a stock looking copper / brass 4-core with a high-efficiency core that will cool better than aluminum. With the cost of recoring today their price is not out of line. Check their dealer list for local dealers, I got mine for less than list price even with shipping.
#8
Having the 4 core high efficiency core put into my side tanks for 400.00. While its out I cleaned up the area it bolts to, Ordered rubber side seals to seal between the radiator and core support as well as the lower side seals that mount behind the front bumper. The seals were all missing. More air will be directed through the radiator now. We'll see if the temp goes up at idle with A/C on after these improvements. Thanks again for the ideas.
#10
Well, the problem was it would keep going up until I turned off the A/C. Should have mentioned that detail I guess. If it still does it, I was told to try a flex fan with no fan clutch. Hope I don't have to resort to that because I like the stock look.
#11
I would not trust anything from that source. Flex fans are crap for cooling - they were designed to reduce drag on a high revving engine, at the expense of moving air, which is where you get the cooling from. A factory fan and a thermostatic clutch are way better for moving air (cooling the engine) than a flex fan.
#12
It appears you have already resolve your Rad issue, but for your info The Parts place reproduces the Harrison 4 core. It is for the 1970 model year though and looks to be reproduced real nice. The original rad's have codes embossed on the tanks for each application and also had a rad tag signifying the application. So if you are going for originality the rad should be re-cored. Hope this helps.
#14
update
Put in a FlowKooler high flow water pump and a Milodon high flow 180 thermostat. Old pump was not getting it done. Was a 252-202 and according to internet that is for a non-AC car depending on where you search, (some sites did not specify AC or not). Old pump I removed, Milodon Thermostat package, and after new pump temp with AC on and Idle for 30 minutes (outside temp 62 deg) drove it around with AC on and temp stayed at halfway mark or less. will see how it handles 100 degree temps next summer.
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