Fan advice please!
#1
Fan advice please!
I have a 71 cutlass nearing the end of a frame up restoration. I'm a bit worried about over heating... I have a 350 high comptession 10.5-1 bored out 30 over,ported and polished, performer intake and cam flat top pistons... I'm seriously worried that the original radiator fan combo will not cut it on cooling. It has the original manual fan, My plan is to take and modify a dual electric fan to fit the car. I've already gotten a higher output alternator to accommodate the newer style radio and possibly a headlight upgrade, so it should also be able to power the electric fans its 100 amps ... my question really is, am I worried to much? I mean these cars ran fine in the 70's with those original fans and radiators... should I just put it together with the original fan and radiator and try it? or just buy the new fan.. thanks for reading.
Last edited by SevenNoOni; May 27th, 2014 at 09:19 AM. Reason: missed something.
#3
#4
What he said, but on the other hand it always amazes me the money people will spend on and engine and a restoration then not just automatically spend an appropriate amount on the cooling system to make certain that it's up to snuff and won't leave you stranded with a cooked engine.
#5
thats what I've been fighting with Jag.. I figure I'll give it a test see if it starts to overheat then if it does i'll limp her home and upgrade that night... that is unless i find some sort of deal i cant pass up on an updated fan.
#7
no the radiator is not restored.. The fan and radiator I'm planning to try is from the car when I got it, give or take 20 years ago. The car has sat covered for those years but was functioning when we got it..
#8
Get that radiator tanked by a rad shop. You should have a new water pump with the build just see if its a cast impeller and not the stamped steel one. You can pickup a HD fan clutch at the parts store and bolt it right onto the water pump. But have to check if it will fit you fan. Is it a 5 or 6 blade? I recommend a 6 blade like factory.
Last edited by Magna86; May 27th, 2014 at 07:23 PM.
#9
I have a similar engine combo (350 Olds, bored +.030, forged pistons, compression around 10.5, Edelbrock intake and carb) and she runs hot. My best advice at this point....don't go without a shroud! It doesn't go too well.
#10
An original radiator in excellent condition should be sufficient. Consider taking the radiator to a radiator repair shop to have it pressure tested, and checked that cooling fins are not clogged or corroded. If it pressure tests ok and the fins are excellent have the tanks removed and the core rodded, not just dipped. If it is not in excellent shape and cannot be rodded then it should be replaced.
Also, do not put thick coats of paint on the radiator for looks, too much paint will reduce the ability to transfer heat.
If the car is an automatic transmission, having a clean radiator and a lower engine temperature will also extend the life of the transmission.
Also, do not put thick coats of paint on the radiator for looks, too much paint will reduce the ability to transfer heat.
If the car is an automatic transmission, having a clean radiator and a lower engine temperature will also extend the life of the transmission.
#11
Get that radiator tanked by a rad shop. You should have a new water pump with the build just see if its a cast impeller and not the stamped steel one. You can pickup a HD fan clutch at the parts store and bolt it right onto the water pump. But have to check if it will fit you fan. Is it a 5 or 6 blade? I recommend a 6 blade like factory.
Sugarbear I've thought of this and at the recommendation of another member I'm looking at a Ready-Rad 433161 Radiator if I need a new one. Also yes it is an automatic
oldsman72 and ah64pilot I agree a fan shroud is important and I do have one.
Honestly I think I'm worried to much over this its not like I live in texas.. I live against lake erie in ohio lol. I'm going to check everything over tho for sure.. at the first sign one of those pieces are bad I'm replacing them. (the fan or radiator)
this is the first car I've rebuilt for myself, So I'm just a bit anxious and worried at the same time lol...
#12
To clarify, tanking or dipping the radiator does not get everything cleaned out if the tubes are clogged with minerals. Removing the tanks and rodding is more effective but may be cost prohibitive unless keeping the original radiator is a concern.
#14
Can't recall seeing it in this thread, but is the orginal radiator a 4 core? A big portion of the cars were optioned with AC, which got you the heavy duty cooling as well and should be all you need (assuming it's in good condition and has the shroud as others said). I might consider some sort of upgrade if the original is a 3 core.
#15
Can't recall seeing it in this thread, but is the orginal radiator a 4 core? A big portion of the cars were optioned with AC, which got you the heavy duty cooling as well and should be all you need (assuming it's in good condition and has the shroud as others said). I might consider some sort of upgrade if the original is a 3 core.
ah64pilot I'm not really trying to keep it stock, but with that said I'm not veering far from it lol. I do not mind replacing the radiator or fan with newer stuff. I'll check into those radiators. thanks!
On a side note, Christmas came yesterday via UPS. stainless exhaust system, heater core (that i need to return) and some other odds n ends. hoping to hook up the exhaust this weekend and start her up again... been about 9 months since it was started.
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