I'm trying to decide if it's worth spending a little more for an authentic part, but $129 seems steep?....

 

We cannot give a decision without a number or picture. 1102440 or 1102437 or 1102439 or 1102441 or 1102464.

 

Opps. That's weird. I thought I put in the link

https://www.ebay.com/p/1970-1977-Old....c100011.m1850

and

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1971-O...p2047675.l2557

 

Hi Tom, I know you enjoy and value doing the job yourself.

The parts to entirely rebuild your original alternator are less than $129 and you would have the correct alternator part number when you are done.

Perhaps your car no longer has the original alternator. It's still the lowest cost route to rebuild what you have unless there is physical damage.

Commercially-rebuilt alternators, even those done by Delco, have a very poor reputation for longevity. The problem seems to be that unless a part looks or tests bad, it is not replaced. This is done to reduce cost. The market for mass rebuilt parts is cost sensitive and not quality sensitive.

When you, or a local auto-electric shop, do the rebuild, all the common parts that might give trouble are replaced.

Gary

 

Thanks Gary.

The problem is exactly what you mentioned. I'm fairly sure mine has been replaced and it was even painted. I'm not sure if the factory painted them Gold along with the engines. It sounds like getting an original core and a rebuild kit would be the way to go then, since even if the Fusick item it correct you would question the quality of the rebuild? Is it a lot of work to do it right? (Bearings, etc?...)

Thanks, Tom

 

While the alt you show on ebay may WORK it may not have the exact STAMPED NUMBER on the case. Any stampings on the Fusick alt are covered up by the Delco rebuilder sticker.

If you want the same stamping/number as yours had originally then you don't know if the alt shown is it or not unless they remove that sticker and you see what, if anything, is stamped underneath.

Your car probably has an external voltage regulator mounted on the firewall so the alt shown won't work for you anyway. '72 Abody and wagons all used externally regulated alts as far as I know....the alt you show on ebay is an INTERNALLY REGULATED alt.

What EXACTLY are you looking for?

>The CORRECT stamped/amperage original alternator?

>OR....something that "appears" correct but may not be the appropriate date code and/or number stamping (ie - a real Delco case, front and back)?

 

Excellent Pat

Ok, so I will look for a core. Is this stamp cast in or stamped in/ on?...

Thanks, Tom

 

Tom, the factory alternators were bare aluminum. They were tumbled to knock off the casting flash and give them a smooth appearance. The process was called Wheelabration. The alternators were not painted. The part number was stamped into the casting after Wheelabration (the style of number will look similar to the stamping on the distributor). The stamping also shows the amp rating and date code.

If you car used the external-regulator type alternator, there will be a regulator (black box) at the center top of the firewall with a wide, 4-terminal electrical connector.. That alternator style is known as 10DN. You can identify the style per the picture below.

Your car used a 37 or 42 amp version if it didn't have AC; it used a 55 or 63 amp if it did have AC.

If your car used the internally-regulated type of alternator (which I think only 442s had) it will be style 10SI. There will be no regulator on the firewall. The second picture shows the 10SI. The finish and stampings are similar to the 10DN.

Repair procedures are essentially the same for both (apart from the internal regulator of the 10SI).

Gary

 

Tom - Like Gary said....the "numbers" are stamped INTO the aluminum and the area that was stamped is the area covered up by the "Delco" sticker on the ebay alt you show. Looks like there's some reddish paint or red Sharpie/Magic Marker coloring under the sticker on that alt. Who knows, maybe there's a stamping under the sticker or maybe it was never stamped but in any event you'll need an externally regulated alternator so that ebay offering won't work (unless someone converted your wiring over to an internally regulated alternator setup.

FWIW-even the '72 442's used the externally regulated alts that year. For some reason, Olds went back to that style alt.

There used to be a list of stamping numbers for alts on the Web but I checked my bookmark for it the other day and it's no longer on there. Should have printed the thing but never did. I'll look again or someone may have the list and can tell you which number stampings are appropriate for your car. Probably a reasonable common number considering the number of Olds models/cars that used it.

 

Tom, I've got several dozen core alternators. If you decide to have one rebuilt I can check to see if I have a core of the right one. 1972 with AC I'm thinking would be a higher amp alternator for that vintage, maybe a 55 or 63 amp? I know, with the 100-140 amp alternators begin swapped onto these cars 55 doesn't sound like much. But I'm pretty sure 55 and 63 amp were the higher output units of that vintage. John

 

Gary and Pat

As with most of my repairs since I've had the car for almost three years now, it seems like it's not much more difficult or costly to use parts that have the correct numbers. I did this when I swapped in a Rochester carb and manifold when some people were telling me that any mid-to late 1970s carb would work with my 200R4 transmission, but I used one from a 1972 and it ran right off the bat. I think I'll go with the same idea for the alternator too. I do seem to have the external voltage regulator and John, thanks for the offer for a core. I'll probably get that too if you ever do find that second passenger door ;-)...

Thanks all for the quick and enthusiastic help. This site must be one of the best around

 

Here is a picture of my alternator. It's not a W-30, just blue, but eventually it will be gold again.

I looks like the external regulator alternator on ebay has a different connection than mine although it does say it's for a 1970 to 1971...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1971-O...p2047675.l2557

 

That picture is of a 10SI (internal regulator). Your alternator should be a 10DN.

Someone must have rewired. Check to see if the original wires were left in place.

 

As Gary mentions - it looks like your alt has been redone to accommodate an external regulator.

One way to tell is the shape/style of the plastic wire terminal plug that plugs into the alternator.

The one you show on your car has a square shaped plastic wire terminal...that's for externally regulated setups. The square plug seems to always be a GREY colored plastic. The internally regulated alts use a narrow RECTANGULAR shaped wire terminal/plug and those always seem to be a off-white color plastic.

On some (maybe all?? - not sure) alt cases the back half plug opening in the case is shaped to allow the use of EITHER style of plug -- square plug (external regulator) or rectangular plug (internal).

TOM - you mention "blue" and "gold" in your last post. Alts WERE NOT PAINTED so if appearance matters DON'T paint it. Someone must have like the blue Olds engine paint and decided to paint that alt as well.

I assume you have a voltage regulator mounted on your firewall.....you might post a pic of that so we know for sure you have one.

 

Did you mean an internal regulator? My car is supposed to have an external, but appears to have an internal regulator too. Here is a picture of the regulator on the firewall. The connector into the alternator looks grey.

Once I rebuild a correct alternator I won't paint it blue or gold :-)
Are the parts readily available?

 

Tom, parts are still available.

You can use sources such as https://store.alternatorparts.com/10si-series-alternator-parts-kits.aspx.

Gary

 

Did I mention that I posted the five correct alt numbers for your car depending on equipment up above. Maybe it was post number two. Tell us what equipment your car has or the output you would like and we will give you the correct number you require.

 

No- what I meant is the alt you showed has the "dual plug style" accommodation on the opening in the back half of the alt case. Who knows what this alt started out as?? (internal reg? external reg?). BUT...judging from the SQUARE STYLE GREY PLASTIC PLUG going into that alt, it's been built, or rebuilt, for external regulator useage.

The connector going into the alt does look grey AND it's a "square style".....thus it's the external regulator style plug (and the alt is built that way apparently assuming your firewall-mounted voltage regulator is all wired in with it).

 

If 2blu442 does not have the correct alternator for you, I have several 1972 applications available. As others have said all 1972 "A" bodies were externally regulated.
I believe you having a Vista the correct alt will either be 1102440 or 1102437, still need more info to make a confirmed determination.
Thanks.

 

Thanks. I did see your post and I actually used the numbers to compare to those I found on ebay, but they wern't the same. My wagon as a 1972 VC with a 350 2BBL and AC originally, now converted to 4BBL.

 

Pat. So, it looks like my wiring is still the original external wiring, but you all don't recognize the alternator as correct external voltage regulator alternator which doesn't surprise me either...

 

The original alternator part number you need for your car is 1102437 55 amp model.
Thanks.

 

Thank you! Now I'm embarrassed that I didn't ask about my AC compressor and drier canister while I was at it. I just bought a rebuild (real) kit, because I think my compressor might still be the original one and it's very clean. The model number is 5910781. Does the sticker look correct for a 1972? Also, are people satisfied using r134a on these old systems without any modifications or should I stick with r-12? Of course the seal kit will be compatible with both refrigerants. Is that aluminum canister correct too?

Thanks, Tom