I've got a '64 cutlass that my dad gave to me which was his dad's. Anyways I've been restoring the car recently, long story short I'm going to pull the engine to do some maintenance and clean the engine bay/engine. The car itself is a convertible 1964 Cutlass with a 330 engine mounted to a 2 speed Jetaway. I'm planning to remove the hood and then pull the engine and transmission as one unit with a load leveler + hoist. Is this the right way to approach this, is there enough clearance?

Also, any tips would be appreciated. I've pulled engines before but not on this car.

Picture below for added interest:

 

I had a 64 Cutlass for over twenty years. With a tilter and a decent cherry picker hoist, this is a easy pull. You do not have to remove the hood.

 

I am getting ready to do the same on a 1969 Cutlass. Is it best to remove the engine and trans together or separately? Any tips? What about removing the hood?
Thanks

 

A few things. First, while you MAY have enough clearance with the hood on, do you really want to get the engine and trans part way up and then find out the hood has to come off? Do you want to risk putting a dimple in the hood from the engine hoist? Pull the hood. Not only is it safer, it provides more working clearance.

Second, you can either pull the engine and trans together or separately. If you plan to pull both, pulling them together is easier, however expect to dump trans fluid all over the ground once you get the trans tilted up. And if you ever plan to separate the two, unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate when they are still in the car - it will be easier.

 

Good that you are back at it. Watch the distributor as engines tend to swing some on hoists, if the distributor bumps the firewall it will break. At a minimum remove the distributor cap or better yet the distributor before pulling the engine.

Since you've pulled other engines I think you will find this is an easy one. Remember to remove the small braided ground strap from the back of the head to the firewall...been there.

Start soaking the exhaust bolts with penetrating oil early and repeatedly.

Good luck!

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All the above are great things to do, emphasis mine: remove the hood makes life easier!, you can pull the engine and trans all in one-if your doing this in a home garage you may have clearance issues with the cherry picker and the ceiling. Have fun-be safe...

 

Use a washable marker or fine felt tipped pen to draw some reference lines around the hinges on the hood before you loosen bolts. When the hood goes back on, you can lineup the hinges pretty close. Wrestling a hood to get bolts started is hard enough.

 

another excellent point OLDSTER-RALPH !!

 

Great info guys, I'm going to replace the hood pad while the hood is off as well. Seems the hood is slightly misaligned anyways so I will make some marks to get it to where it was to start with and hopefully adjust to get it lined up perfectly. It sits high in the back when shut, I'd imagine someone took it off before? Also, the ceiling in my garage is about 20 feet so I'll be fine in terms of clearance.

 

you can also drill 1/8 inch holes thru the hinge and the hood frame, being careful not to go too deep, front and rear, and use a awl to line back up , when putting it back together

 

I put the front of the car on jack stands to get it as high as safely possible and leave it there. This will enable you to tilt the engine to clear obstructions easier. I disconnect the manifolds from the block and leave the exhaust connections alone. I also remove the radiator.