Hi there,

I got my Cutlass now since five years and i love this one very much. (Would never give it away or change it for something else.)
Last Saturday/Sunday i made a big trip with it driving hundrets of miles.

Sadly i have a "nailing" Sound in the Engine since that.
Its the Original 350 Engine and i guess i was driving it too fast (30min with 100mph).

I now know that the Engines vents are not made for this and that it has some problem with the Oiling thing. (To small oil pan, and other stuff.)

It is actually on its way to my mechanic and if the engine should have some bigger defect i want to change the whole engine!
Cause its already the 2nd machine i dont have a problem because of maching numbers.

Basically i am no one whos driving that fast the most of the time BUT if i want to because i have to travel a long distance i want to drive faster in such situations.
As i am located in Germany i am allowed to drive with no limit on many highways.

So my question basically is which engine you could recommend for my car?
Should be something complete that fits in and is robust also on higher speeds for longer times.
Could also have more Horsepower than the actual 350 block.

Or would you buy this block again and "tune" it up (vents, oil pan, oil coolers etc.) ?
But maybe this comes more expensive than a "turn key" solution.

greets,
Michael_

 

Yes that car is not designed for that kind of Autobahn fun. Rebuild the Olds 350 and consider a 4, 5 or 6-speed overdrive transmission to maintain those kinds of sustained Autobahn speeds. It can be either an Automatic or Standard shift. You will need custom adapters to mate the engine to this transmission. Adjust your final rear-end gear ratio to optimize both low and high speeds. You need to bring down the cruising RPMs at 160Kph to get that 350 or any V8 engine to live a long life. My guess would be a range of 2800 maybe 3000rpms or less at 160Kph. There are many other modifications you will need as well. Some oiling improvements can be gained in any engine for sustained high RPM longevity. That would be oil galley improvements. Oil drain back improvements, Oil pump and pickup improvements, crank windage tray, main cap girdle etc...Your other option is to install a modern GM LS engine/trans or some other modern drive train with a modern multi-geared transmission. Then you must consider all of the upgrades that go with that...cooling, fuel, electrical, drive shaft, shift linkage, rear end etc...
Don't forget the braking and handling. That kind of speed needs bigger modern brakes to slow you down quick and safe. You need chassis/suspension handling upgrades for safety so it doesn't get out of control at 160Kpm! Don't forget about seat belts. At a minimum, you need a 4 point harness. Sounds like you really should go through this car to make it a safe Autobahn machine. For your safety as well as others.

 

Hi, Thanks for your Opinion.
Your Option 1 sounds very good so far.
Its that simple im wondering why i did not came of this so far. (Lowering speed by using a transmission with more gears.)

I just had in mind to "tune" the Vents and everything related to the Oil.
But even if that would also do the job, i think the engine will last longer with a lower speed thanks to a better transmission.

I will see what defect my engine has and then either repair or replace it.
But i think i will go for the Same engine if i need to get a new one. (It is not the first but original so i have no problem because of maching numbers.)

Can you might recommend me an automatic transmission for the engine?
Was there maybe one available for the oldsmobile except for the 4 speed manual one? I have nothing against manual shifting but not in this car if there is another option. ^^
Your other Option with complete new Engine and everything around (transmission etc.) is cool also but i want to keep that car technically in the 70s and as much original as possible as long as i can deal this with my needs.

 

Give Gearvendors a call. The Gearvendors overdrive unit attaches to your existing transmission tail shaft. You unbolt the existing tail housing and this unit bolts up to it. You will need to shorten your drive shaft or get a new one made. The Gearvendors unit splits each forward gear in half. So you get 1st gear, 1.5gear, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5...so up to 6 forward gears out of your 3 speed TH350 automatic. But Im not sure thats even enough gear for what your doing. Give them a call or Google them and read up.

 

I would look at a 200r4 trans, that would give you overdrive, and easier installation than a Gear Vendors unit.

 

True statement and worth looking into. The 200 is the easiest to bolt in for sure. Not sure thats enough overdrive for him? Not sure the GV behind his TH350 is enough overdrive? The TH200R4 can be beefed up. But to what extent. Im not a fan of the 200s having had them apart; compared to a TH350 or TH400...no comparison, toss all the cryo parts at it that you want you still have a junior transmission. The GV with the TH350 has "the beef". Hes gona have to do some math homework to see what he wants for off-the-line acceleration(ratio), a final drive ratio, and top speed RPMs. Neither of these options may be suited for sustained 100-120mph blasts down the Autobahn? He may need to look into a hybrid. Say a modern 6 or 8 speed automatic with a stand alone computer and all the necessary electronics like a speed sensor etc...Find a sharp machinist or a good hot rod shop to make an adapter for a modern 6 or 8 speed and be done with it. Another option is a 4L60E or 4L80E 4 speed overdrives with a GV. Thats a beefy modern trans with 8 forward gears. But will need floor tunnel mods as well as electronics and a specialized adapter to mate with the Olds 350.
Think of the new SS Camaro 8 speed trans. Thats the ticket if you could adapt it.

 

Thanks for your Answers.
I will discuss that with my mechanic after he tells me whats wrong with my Engine.

Because you say you dont know if its enough.
I know that its okay to drive the car at 120km/h but as i have no rpm monitor in cockpit i cant tell you how much rpm that be, so i think i just have to keep it at that level at 160km/h too.

One Question:
When i add more Gears with a new Transmission do i loose much Power due to that?
Will there be things like "Turbo hole" or can you avoid that almost so that there is still something/enough happening when shifting gear?
I think that is what you mean with math and stuff but as i am not a car mechanic i do not really know.

What i am acutally planning is:
1.Modifing Transmission
2.Add Bigger Oil Pan
3.Add Bigger Oil Cooler

Someone also gave me this link (read Oil Return from Heads)
http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofbld.htm
But not sure if it is not enough to enlarge the Oil Pan. (Buying one thats much bigger)

Do you think i am fine doing that or is there anything more i should do definitly?

 

The 2004R and 700R4 have a 30% OD. not much improvement for cruising 100 MPH.

JMO.

Johnny

 

So what would you recommend?
Gearvendors?
Is there maybe something from the 70s?

If there is a way around i dont want to put in parts from modern cars.

I also wrote another post that needs "moderation" or something, if it should not come (because my other postings do not need this) i will post again.

 

So can you guy tell me if the Gearvendors Solution will do?
I looked at there Website and it looks interesting.

If not is there another Thing that will work?
Or do i really need to get something like the actual 8 gear transmission?
This one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-speed-Auto...-/282301037648
But i think this is not to easy to use/install?

If there should be no easy methods maybe it would be easier to tune the vent section of the Block to allow using higher RPMs? Would keep the car more authentic than putting in a 2k16 transmission also.

One Question:
When putting in a new transmission with more gears can that be tuned to do not have to big performance holes when shifting the gears?

 

The vette trans will not work. You need a traditional trans where the trans is bolted to the block. The vette trans is actually at the rear of the car connected by a torque tube to the engine.
You need to contact GV and ask what gear ratios they offer. Gears are math. They could have something off the shelf or they may be able to custom make something to suit your needs. You need to know what the differential in your car is. From this information they can assist you in making a choice.
We cant give you a definite answer here due to the variables in the GV part numbers and what your set up currently is.
GV will guide you and tell you if they can provide the proper amount of over drive to suit your needs. I would guess that it will but I like the data/math to guide my decisions not guess work or because some stranger on the internet says so.... The math will give you the exact info for final drive ratio and at what speed and RPMs you can expect.

Before you call or email them you will need the following information:
1. Rear axle gear ratio
2. Maximum usable RPM from your 350 (My guess is 4500-5000 rpm or more if built properly).
3. Diameter of the rear tires.
4. Max KPH you expect to travel (160-200Kph or less? after you've upgraded the brakes and suspension and seat belts of course...lol)
5. What torque converter you're using (whats its stall rating) what do they recommend?
6. Cam shaft profile may be needed too?

Im not sure exactly what they will ask for but these are educated guesses.


It could be as simple as bolting up the GV and shortening your drive-shaft. Consider freshening up the transmission while its out. Install a trans cooler(properly plumbed). There is a right and a wrong way to plumb a cooler.

All of the parts must play well together to yield good results. Do the homework or you will not get what you want and will waste your money.

 

Thats some work for the Mechanic.
I can not tell you the answer to most of these questions.
I will ask him and he could then directly call with Gearvendors.

I Think GV would be the easiest Solution if it would do the job. (From your suggestions so far.)
Just hoping that there would not be to big "power holes" or to noticeable gear shiftings with that solution. But i hope when you do it right it will be good.

What I actually Plan is:
- Transmission
- Bigger cooler for the Oil (Both, also for Transmission)
- Bigger Oil Pan (Do the Transmission need a bigger one too?)

Aside from Brakes and other Stuff thats just needed for more security is this all or i miss something?

http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofbld.htm
Read "Oil Return from Heads", is this still relevant with a bigger oil pan?

 

With the GV there will be a switch installed somewhere in the car. You can operate it as a regular 3 speed or a 6 speed by using the switch. In a console shifted car, one usually locates the switch on the shifter but it can be mounted anywhere.

Power holes or what we refer to as flat spots can be avoided if the carb, cam, intake, exhaust, torque converter, GV gearing and rear end gearing all match. Each component has to be "matched" with the sum of all parts. You can obtain this harmony by asking all of the vendors what they recommend. Again, do your homework before you start purchasing parts. The carb, intake, and cam can be purchased together. But that vendor will want to know the stall of the converter, the trans gear ratios, rear end gear ratios and tire diameter.

A larger capacity pan (not deeper but wider) on the engine is a good idea. Several oil filter manufacturers make a 1-quart oil filter(Baldwin makes them). The trans could benefit from a deeper pan as well. Stay away from cheap chinese chrome pans. Junk and they actually hold in the heat.

"Aside from Brakes and other Stuff that's just needed for more security is this all or i miss something?"
Anything that needs to be beefed up to deal with high-speed cruising. Tires need to be high speed rated, same for the rims. Previously mentioned suspension, seat belts, and brake upgrades.

Finally, the oiling system should be investigated for optimal restriction free oil drain back. Stay away from a high volume oil pump. A high-quality stock style pump should be adequate. Make sure the oil pick up tube matches the pan depth and tack weld it to the pump. Find someone familiar with Oldsmobile oiling. Plenty of discussion about that here.

Lastly, once you have done all the homework and installed everything then you will have to go through a debugging period. This is called super tuning. This is where a dyno with a good technician will come in handy. You will need to dial in the fuel and ignition curves to optimize all the new parts.

 

Thank you very much for all this really good replys.
Now i will discuss this with my Mechanic, just need to wait for the feedback from his side whats actually defect.

Already got an offer for a new Engine directly here in the Forum which i will buy if i need it so this Problem is already solved.

I will update you as far as i have news.

 

The 2004R is a good transmission IF built right. To live behind a mild 350, they only need bigger boost valves, shift kit, billet servo, bottom feed filter and hardened servo. Match the converter to your motor. The gear vendors is tough but equal to a super duty rebuild on a 2004R. I personally think the TH350 is far from bullet proof stock. I have seen them fail behind the mid 70's 160 HP Olds 350 and my current 70 TH350 trans couldn't take the mighty 260. The 2004R with lock up drops the highway rpms by 1000. All the Olds 350 needs for sustained high rpm is a 7 or 8 quart pan properly filled with proper bottom end clearances.

 

But the larger problem is the 200 won't offer enough overdrive to suit 120mph + sustained Autobahn blasts unless he installs a really low (numerically) rear-end which will hurt all but high-speed driving performance. Bringing the engine down from maxed out 5K to 4K isn't enough IMO. If it was me I'd want it under 3K at 120+ yet without compromising off the line capabilities or component durability. I'm not sure the GV will do it either? Even with a gear ratio change in the TH350 and the GV it still may not do what he wants? Thus the need for a modern 6-8speed auto. He needs to figure out what he wants for a cruising speed RPM, off the line performance and how deep his pockets are.

 

Question is, does the 350 have the cojones to push against the drag at 3k rpm and at 120mph? Remember, power is torque x rpm. To put out the same power at a lower rpm requires mucho torque. A 350 I know with a 2.73 is rocking at 3500 at 100, and has a decent amount of pull left, but would be at around 4300 at 120. He may have no accelerating power at 120 mph and 3k rpm.

 

What if i just tune the vents and Oiling from the Block and Transmission instead of lowering RPM by tuning/changing Transmission?
That was what i was planing bevor posting here in this Forum.
(To let it handle the high RPMs.)

 

You will experience engine failure at some point. That vehicle was not designed to go that fast for long periods of time. If you modified the engine oil system, that would solve some of the issues, but it would not solve all of them. There is no cheap and easy fix to go that fast for that long. If I were to make a Cutlass capable of the autobahn, I would do the following:


1. Rebuilt engine for high RPM with much better than stock rods, pistons, cam, better balanced crank, all internals. Valves, springs, cam, lifters, rockers, and oil system.


2. Transmission with a couple overdrive gears.


3. Much better brakes, much better seat belts, much better suspension components.


I can think of about ten problems with going 120 mph for long periods of time in a car this age, and engine oiling is just one of them.

 

Isn't that application very similar to a boat engine? High load / High RPM for extended periods. Olds engines did quite well in boats as far as I can remember.

I have done 100MPH in my '66 Toronado. Not something I'd like to repeat... And the engine was the least of my concerns.

 

Back in the 80s, my Dad had a 1986 Peugeot 205 GTX, with 88HP. That car would do 120MPH. At those speeds, weight is quite secondary to aerodynamic drag. I can't imagine the Peugeot being much more aerodynamic than an A-body.

 

My Mechanic was on Holidays for the last to Weeks.
Now i know that 3 Cylinders are defect inkl. rod etc. so i now have to decide if i just get a new (original) block or if i do some major changes.

 

The Gear Vendors only has a .77 OD, not enough. Run a T56 with the double OD, the one with the .50 OD. If your 350 needs a total overhaul, run standard bore 400 sbc forged pistons, I believe 1.55 compression distance with a 6.2" rod. The crank needs the journals widened since the SBC rods are wider. You can also offset grind your crank with 2" or 1.88" journal rod. Gives more cubic inches and a smaller rod journal.