door panels fix or buy?
#1
door panels fix or buy?
I'm trying to figure out what to do with the door panels on my '71 cutlass supreme 'vert. They are in pretty good condition and only need a few things. But what they need I have not been able to find sold separately. The chrome Mylar that encircles the wood grain is peeling and needs to be replaced. Also, the black (carpeting... I don't know what it is actually called) that runs along the base of the panels is very faded.
Here is my dilemma. Two brand new cutlass supreme repro panels will run about $380 for the pair. But I'm kind of cheap.
Is it possible to dye the black carpeting, and is it worth the effort? Also can the chrome Mylar be bought on it's own, and once again, is it worth the hassle of removing the old from the door panel and putting new on?
https://www.opgi.com/cutlass/1972/in...ssories/CA210/
Yes I know the link is for a '72, but my '71 was build in late July and has original white (not pearl) interior, so to replace them, I have to buy '72 panels.
Here is my dilemma. Two brand new cutlass supreme repro panels will run about $380 for the pair. But I'm kind of cheap.
Is it possible to dye the black carpeting, and is it worth the effort? Also can the chrome Mylar be bought on it's own, and once again, is it worth the hassle of removing the old from the door panel and putting new on?
https://www.opgi.com/cutlass/1972/in...ssories/CA210/
Yes I know the link is for a '72, but my '71 was build in late July and has original white (not pearl) interior, so to replace them, I have to buy '72 panels.
Last edited by chip-powell; October 7th, 2015 at 10:45 AM.
#2
As far as the "chrome" strip, I think you're sol. But as far as the carpet, check out the September 16th post. I had good luck painting the carpet on this DD I had. A little masking of the parts you don't want painted & it turned out pretty dang nice. I am cheap also.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...an-c-list.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...an-c-list.html
#3
The carpet can be dyed black again with SEM paint the color you want is Landau Black. It's usually available at places the stock auto body supplies. I don't know of a way to reattach the Mylar though.
Be careful with the OPGI door panels. They stock PUI parts and PUI had some issues with the Mylar adhering.
If you order 1972 door panels it will have rosewood wood grain inserts that won't match your back door or dash because 1971 used walnut.
Most people here have had good success with Legendary interior parts. They are a little more expensive and I'm not sure if the even sell the pre-assembled door panels, but I'm sure they could do the right color and wood grain combinations for you.
Be careful with the OPGI door panels. They stock PUI parts and PUI had some issues with the Mylar adhering.
If you order 1972 door panels it will have rosewood wood grain inserts that won't match your back door or dash because 1971 used walnut.
Most people here have had good success with Legendary interior parts. They are a little more expensive and I'm not sure if the even sell the pre-assembled door panels, but I'm sure they could do the right color and wood grain combinations for you.
Last edited by 4speed455; October 7th, 2015 at 11:28 AM.
#4
I would try that chrome or aluminum tape over the mylar parts if you take your time and get it on nicely then redye the carpet ..then you will maintain the correct grain and color on the rest of the panel. total cost ~$20
something ;like this
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/i...207/10595407-P
or this
something ;like this
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/i...207/10595407-P
or this
#5
As far as the chrome trim goes, I rebuilt my door panels on my 67 and used 1/4 inch chrome tape I got from paperstreetplastics on ebay. They have multiple widths and finishes. It fit perfectly.
I cleaned the old stuff off (actually it just pulled off, cleaned with 2000 grit paper, followed with an alcohol wipe and it went on nicely. It has the ability to stretch a small bit (that's all you want). That was a couple of years ago and it still looks great.
I cleaned the old stuff off (actually it just pulled off, cleaned with 2000 grit paper, followed with an alcohol wipe and it went on nicely. It has the ability to stretch a small bit (that's all you want). That was a couple of years ago and it still looks great.
#9
ill tell you how to make the tape work..ive done it 100s of times over the years and figured it out.
pull off what will come off...get your fingernail in there..loose bits means peeling later..especially in the winter....i use a soft tooth brush and scrub it to make sure it comes off
prep..has to be clean..use wax and grease remover.....
if you dye the panel just paint over what ever chrome there is..it will help with adhesion
get a heat gun or a hair dryer you want it to help with adhesion and to make corners...
your hands emit oil..if you get oil on the panel or tape its coming off..i wash my hands with hand cleaner then keep some purell close..i may use it 5 or 6 times while applying the tape.
lay the panel flat where you have access..i let the door top rail hang over a cart or table edge...i pull all clips off..i want it flat. then i apply the tape..i use the heat to make corners i get the tape warm..if too warm it will stretch and be narrow and sticks out..
once i am happy with the tape..i take a soft rag and then heat the tape up a bunch it activates the glue better...as it cools i use the rag to rub it and set it.. let it cool...
if youve never used heat and tape...practice making corners on the table before you try..make the corners as tight as you can with out stretching the tape..the stretching is what pops out..the eye is a precision measuring device..it sees the width diffs...the heat will help it shrink if it bunches up...you go from good to melted fast..it takes practice
you can buy wide tape and get a splitter to make it the right width...if is a weird size..
ive had great results and no one has ever figured out i re-tapped the mylar....it just takes a little practice
pull off what will come off...get your fingernail in there..loose bits means peeling later..especially in the winter....i use a soft tooth brush and scrub it to make sure it comes off
prep..has to be clean..use wax and grease remover.....
if you dye the panel just paint over what ever chrome there is..it will help with adhesion
get a heat gun or a hair dryer you want it to help with adhesion and to make corners...
your hands emit oil..if you get oil on the panel or tape its coming off..i wash my hands with hand cleaner then keep some purell close..i may use it 5 or 6 times while applying the tape.
lay the panel flat where you have access..i let the door top rail hang over a cart or table edge...i pull all clips off..i want it flat. then i apply the tape..i use the heat to make corners i get the tape warm..if too warm it will stretch and be narrow and sticks out..
once i am happy with the tape..i take a soft rag and then heat the tape up a bunch it activates the glue better...as it cools i use the rag to rub it and set it.. let it cool...
if youve never used heat and tape...practice making corners on the table before you try..make the corners as tight as you can with out stretching the tape..the stretching is what pops out..the eye is a precision measuring device..it sees the width diffs...the heat will help it shrink if it bunches up...you go from good to melted fast..it takes practice
you can buy wide tape and get a splitter to make it the right width...if is a weird size..
ive had great results and no one has ever figured out i re-tapped the mylar....it just takes a little practice
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