Distributor Restoration recomendation needed
#1
Distributor Restoration recomendation needed
Saw a few ads on Hemmings for shops to restore a points distributor. Does anyone have a recommendation for a shop they've used & were happy with? I have a stock points distributor for my car that I want to have restored before I drop it in. Thanks
#2
Also, this is a long shot, but I have a fairly new set of MSD wires on the car but they have HEI (female) ends on them. Does anyone make a conversion cap to use HEI type wires with a points style distributor?
#7
Go to Summit Racing's site and look up MSD's distributor cap offerings. I have a MSD HEI terminal ends type cap on an original GM points-type distributor on one of my cars. Distributor was converted to an MSD-type trigger internally but the body, etc is original to the '72 car. This cap also uses a MSD-provided wire retainer on top of the HEI terminal wires. They may have it in black now (mine is red).
Last edited by 70Post; February 29th, 2016 at 10:58 PM.
#8
+1. What do you mean?
A distributor has a body, two bronze bushings, a shaft with a gear, two weights, a weight centerpiece, two springs, a points plate, a points plate ground wire, a hot wire, a set of points, and a condenser.
If the bushings are worn (does the shaft have axial play?) they can be driven out and replaced (parts are available from one of the Corvette suppliers).
If the wright pivots are worn (visibly wallowed), the weights can be replaced.
The springs can be replaced, though sourcing precise originals may be difficult.
The wires can be replaced if they are damaged.
The base can be bead blasted, but is essentially invisible when installed, and usually caught an ample amount of overspray during assembly anyway, so what is visible should have some paint on it in a "correct" restoration.
So... What, exactly, are you looking for?
- Eric
A distributor has a body, two bronze bushings, a shaft with a gear, two weights, a weight centerpiece, two springs, a points plate, a points plate ground wire, a hot wire, a set of points, and a condenser.
If the bushings are worn (does the shaft have axial play?) they can be driven out and replaced (parts are available from one of the Corvette suppliers).
If the wright pivots are worn (visibly wallowed), the weights can be replaced.
The springs can be replaced, though sourcing precise originals may be difficult.
The wires can be replaced if they are damaged.
The base can be bead blasted, but is essentially invisible when installed, and usually caught an ample amount of overspray during assembly anyway, so what is visible should have some paint on it in a "correct" restoration.
So... What, exactly, are you looking for?
- Eric
#9
#10
I replaced the bushings on some UHV units a while back.
Corvette bushing is too long- easy fix.
Shaft often scored and worn beyond use.
Pile of dist'rs found me a better shaft with the same number "football" on the top for same spark curve.
Old grease looked like dried cheese, was not really grease anymore.
Install, shaft is tight. Just a little.
Turns out 0.491" is aka 12.5mm and a reamer was dirt cheap on Amazon.
Took reamer to hardware store, found pipe fitting that just pass the reamer shaft, and center it in the housing, so that after inserting the bushing, the reamer trues it up right in line with the other end.
Install 2nd bushing, do the same, using a different reamer guide.
Voila' the shaft spins like new. Fresh grease. oiled felt ring.
I did not alter the outside of the casting in any way. I was basically rebuilding a '480 dist'r from an NOS '290 and other parts.
Corvette bushing is too long- easy fix.
Shaft often scored and worn beyond use.
Pile of dist'rs found me a better shaft with the same number "football" on the top for same spark curve.
Old grease looked like dried cheese, was not really grease anymore.
Install, shaft is tight. Just a little.
Turns out 0.491" is aka 12.5mm and a reamer was dirt cheap on Amazon.
Took reamer to hardware store, found pipe fitting that just pass the reamer shaft, and center it in the housing, so that after inserting the bushing, the reamer trues it up right in line with the other end.
Install 2nd bushing, do the same, using a different reamer guide.
Voila' the shaft spins like new. Fresh grease. oiled felt ring.
I did not alter the outside of the casting in any way. I was basically rebuilding a '480 dist'r from an NOS '290 and other parts.
#11
I want it restored just like any other component would be restored. I want it gone through for appearance & functionality. Any wear items checked & if worn out replaced. The housing is grimy & has paint overspray on it. I want that all cleaned up.
#12
Go to Summit Racing's site and look up MSD's distributor cap offerings. I have a MSD HEI terminal ends type cap on an original GM points-type distributor on one of my cars. Distributor was converted to an MSD-type trigger internally but the body, etc is original to the '72 car. This cap also uses a MSD-provided wire retainer on top of the HEI terminal wires. They may have it in black now (mine is red).
Thanks. I'll check it out.
#13
#14
#15
If you are really picky, some of the Corvette and Camaro folks use Jerry McNeish.
A top shelf rebuild "reskins" the surface, and completely replaces all the wear parts.
Hemmings has a number of vendors that perform this.
Expect to pay $250-350, or more.
A top shelf rebuild "reskins" the surface, and completely replaces all the wear parts.
Hemmings has a number of vendors that perform this.
Expect to pay $250-350, or more.
#16
Go to Summit Racing's site and look up MSD's distributor cap offerings. I have a MSD HEI terminal ends type cap on an original GM points-type distributor on one of my cars. Distributor was converted to an MSD-type trigger internally but the body, etc is original to the '72 car. This cap also uses a MSD-provided wire retainer on top of the HEI terminal wires. They may have it in black now (mine is red).
#17
Very helpful. Thank you. That looks to be just what I'm looking for. Thanks.
#18
"The housing is grimy & has paint overspray on it. I want that all cleaned up."
===
Standards vary
some would be po'd if the rebuilder ruined the original patina and factory overspray on say a '68 H/O unit. Things are only original once.
For example, I would be quite upset if the "restoration" process for a rare part ended up with this sort of finish
And I would consider "refinishing" this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-OLDS-OL...5SlSVl&vxp=mtr
to be a crime. Original orange daub. Overspray. proper stamp.
A light cleaning externally, verify internals perfect, working order and run with that.
===
Standards vary
some would be po'd if the rebuilder ruined the original patina and factory overspray on say a '68 H/O unit. Things are only original once.
For example, I would be quite upset if the "restoration" process for a rare part ended up with this sort of finish
And I would consider "refinishing" this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-OLDS-OL...5SlSVl&vxp=mtr
to be a crime. Original orange daub. Overspray. proper stamp.
A light cleaning externally, verify internals perfect, working order and run with that.
Last edited by Octania; March 5th, 2016 at 09:26 PM.
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