Delete plate question
#1
Delete plate question
I have a question about installing a delete plate. I removed the evaporator box and am going to replace it with a delete plate. Along with the blower motor, what other parts or pieces do I have to install onto the delete plate in order for the heater to operate properly. I know I have to put the blower motor on, but I have some type of resistor. Do I have to install this resistor or any other parts onto the delete plate?
#3
Resistor must be installed in the fan's airflow for cooling, otherwise it will burn up. Take this into account in placing it. Also, make sure the little adapter for the motor cooling tube is installed, along with the tube to keep the motor cool.
3M strip caulk works great for sealing the cover to the firewall.
Sell off your old evap box and parts as many seek them to reinstall or replace broken ones.
3M strip caulk works great for sealing the cover to the firewall.
Sell off your old evap box and parts as many seek them to reinstall or replace broken ones.
#4
Thanks for the quick response to my question, but I'm still a bit confused. I have installed the delete plate with the blower motor. Where exactly do I place the resistor (is the ambient sensor of use if I deleted the air conditioning unit? Do I need to install this if the ac is not in use?) I also need to know if the existing wiring that was installed originally for the ac, is that compatible with the use of the heater only, or do I need to replace the entire wiring?
#5
I'm sorry if this is another one of my rude, snarky responses, but why on earth would you want to rip out pats of your car if you don't even know what they do or how they work?
I mean, you've clearly pulled all of the A/C gear off of your classic antique car without knowing what you were removing or why it was there, otherwise you wouldn't be asking these questions.
This disturbs me.
As Rob said, the resistor MUST be IN THE AIRFLOW after the fan, or it will get too hot and it will melt, and you will have only one blower speed, which will be High.
If the geniuses who designed the "delete plate" did not include a hole to mount the resistor in the airflow, then you must make one. Use the hole it came out of in the fiberglass evaporator case as a template.
You have not told us what year or model car you have, or whether you removed a Comfortron system or a regular A/C system. I am not aware on an ambient air sensor in the airflow in regular systems, but if your car is a '72, that may be one of those "late model" things that I never encountered. If this was a Comfortron system, then good luck, because you need ALL the parts, and you will probably need to switch to a fan and wiring from a regular A/C or heat-only system to get it to work the way you want.
- Eric
I mean, you've clearly pulled all of the A/C gear off of your classic antique car without knowing what you were removing or why it was there, otherwise you wouldn't be asking these questions.
This disturbs me.
As Rob said, the resistor MUST be IN THE AIRFLOW after the fan, or it will get too hot and it will melt, and you will have only one blower speed, which will be High.
If the geniuses who designed the "delete plate" did not include a hole to mount the resistor in the airflow, then you must make one. Use the hole it came out of in the fiberglass evaporator case as a template.
You have not told us what year or model car you have, or whether you removed a Comfortron system or a regular A/C system. I am not aware on an ambient air sensor in the airflow in regular systems, but if your car is a '72, that may be one of those "late model" things that I never encountered. If this was a Comfortron system, then good luck, because you need ALL the parts, and you will probably need to switch to a fan and wiring from a regular A/C or heat-only system to get it to work the way you want.
- Eric
#6
The side would be best for the resistor, should you need to remove it later. Put it where air will go over it (not in a corner or something). If you post a picture of the delete plate, i will mark you a place for it.
The motor had a rubber tube that circulated air around the motor for cooling - it connects to an adapter that is connected to the case.
Some good pictures are here to show how it should be.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post316273
The ambient sensor would no longer be used. Remove it along with the compressor plug and wiring (green and black). You can carefully pop the terminal out of the ambient sensor plug and heatshrink the remaining terminal. This way reinstalling the AC can be easily done way in the future if desired. (I hate hacked wiring...)
MD, the ambient sensor kept the compressor clutch from engaging when intake air temperature is sub-freezing.
The motor had a rubber tube that circulated air around the motor for cooling - it connects to an adapter that is connected to the case.
Some good pictures are here to show how it should be.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post316273
The ambient sensor would no longer be used. Remove it along with the compressor plug and wiring (green and black). You can carefully pop the terminal out of the ambient sensor plug and heatshrink the remaining terminal. This way reinstalling the AC can be easily done way in the future if desired. (I hate hacked wiring...)
MD, the ambient sensor kept the compressor clutch from engaging when intake air temperature is sub-freezing.
#7
The resistor on my 69 was located inside the car under the dash on the passenger side on top of the box that controls airflow direction (I.E. defrost or heat.) There was a factory hole cut for it already and the wiring was right there. My car was originally an A/C car and I did the delete plate as well. Don't know what year/model car you are working with though.
#8
Delete panel was done on my car before I got it, but talked to the previous owner about the install. The resistor on mine is installed on the engine bay side near the blower, not under dash as Willidog says. I can try to take a pic this evening if that will help. Hole has to be cut and is described in the instructions that came with the panel.
Don't cut original wiring as Rob suggests and save the parts in case you or a future owner wants to return to stock. Contemplating that as a future project - Texas gets a bit warm in the summer.
Don't cut original wiring as Rob suggests and save the parts in case you or a future owner wants to return to stock. Contemplating that as a future project - Texas gets a bit warm in the summer.
#9
#10
Thanks Ron, Matt and those of you who gave me CONSTRUCTIVE, not critical advice and were polite enough to guide me with my questions. I never admitted to being knowledgeable on this subject; hence, that is why we have forums to ask such questions. Hint. Hint, MD. I have a 71 olds cutlass, 350, automatic to clarify what car I am restoring. Ill post pics in the future of the delete plate, Rob, so as to maybe you could guide me a on what I need to accomplish here. Once again, thank you for your help and patience.
*****SNOOKY "AKA" DEBRA*****
*****SNOOKY "AKA" DEBRA*****
Last edited by snookys71olds; February 20th, 2012 at 10:05 AM. Reason: REWORDING
#11
At least I admitted my response was rude and snarky.
I'm just bothered by people removing funtionality from their cars, instead of fixing them, and people removing stuff from their cars when they don't know what it is just rubs me the wrong way.
I say the same sorts of things to people who want to replace perfectly functional factory parts with "better" aftermarket crap, without knowing why they're doing it.
I really am sorry if I hurt your feelings, though, and you'll probably find me more personable in other discussions (just not the ones about bad spelling and grammar ).
- Eric
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