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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 09:27 AM
  #1  
chip-powell's Avatar
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From: Maryland
cranking amps

Looks like my battery has finally given up the ghost.


How many cranking amps in a battery should I be looking for, for a '71 cutlass vert that is bone stock, except for a new stereo?
Old Sep 5, 2015 | 09:41 AM
  #2  
coppercutlass's Avatar
Chevy budget Olds powered
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,638
From: Elgin, Illinois
I went with an oddessy agm battery. kinda like an optima but better imo and cheaper. ithas 330 cca but for 10 seconds its double the cca the more you crank it will gradually come down. I have a 1972 cutlass and i run electric fans , electric water pump , radio , and have higer compression. it does the job just great. both my dad and i are running them. couldnt be happier. Plus they are much smaller and lighther than the big bulky ones and cost just about as much. I paid 160 for mine.


Thier power raitings are weird but it works great . i thought it wasnt gonna be enough battery but its very powerful .

Amazon.com: Odyssey PC925 Automotive and LTV Battery: Automotive Amazon.com: Odyssey PC925 Automotive and LTV Battery: Automotive

Last edited by coppercutlass; Sep 5, 2015 at 09:44 AM.
Old Sep 6, 2015 | 05:43 AM
  #3  
rustyroger's Avatar
'87 Delta 88 Royale
 
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Margate, England
The size of the battery required (in terms of cca, not physical dimensions) is determined by the demands of starting the engine. All else being equal the more cubic inches and the higher the cr the bigger the battery you need.
The demands of the electrical services, lights, wipers, fans, stereo, etc, will determine the output you need from the charging system, a monster sound system may want well over 100 amps at full chat.
If you like to have the stereo blasting without the engine running then you can incorporate another battery to run separately from the starter battery but still charge when the engine is running.

Roger.
Old Sep 6, 2015 | 06:18 AM
  #4  
chip-powell's Avatar
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From: Maryland
Thanks for the info guys. Now at least I have an idea as to what to look for.
Old Sep 8, 2015 | 09:56 AM
  #5  
droldsmorland's Avatar
CH3NO2 LEARN IT BURN IT
 
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Land of Taxes
DieHard BCI group 24, 750-850 CCAs with fresh or low ohm secondary (battery) cables with clean n tight grounds(all of them).
Old Sep 8, 2015 | 12:12 PM
  #6  
CutlassDad's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 192
From: Milwaukee, WI
The recreational vehicle people have charging two batteries from one alternator pretty well covered. The problem is that the alternator regulators don't know which battery voltage to sense from. The 1 alternator hookup will a charge one battery first, but never equally. Another source could be one of the custom autosound sourcesthat will separate the alternator output and sensing. All of this has nothing to do with individual battery size.
Old Sep 8, 2015 | 02:13 PM
  #7  
76olds's Avatar
Hookers under Hood
 
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,543
From: Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by coppercutlass
I went with an oddessy agm battery. kinda like an optima but better imo and cheaper. ithas 330 cca but for 10 seconds its double the cca the more you crank it will gradually come down. I have a 1972 cutlass and i run electric fans , electric water pump , radio , and have higer compression. it does the job just great. both my dad and i are running them. couldnt be happier. Plus they are much smaller and lighther than the big bulky ones and cost just about as much. I paid 160 for mine.


Thier power raitings are weird but it works great . i thought it wasnt gonna be enough battery but its very powerful .

Amazon.com: Odyssey PC925 Automotive and LTV Battery: Automotive
That must be a dam good battery, Amazon.ca show the battery for $350.64 CDN.
That's big money, That's why I use an Interstate battery $180.00 up here however its not an AGM.
When my Interstate battery goes I may go with the AGM if ther is a few pounds weight difference
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