could someone help me understand this tag, Everything I read keeps giving different answers it goes as follows...

ST 72-34257 R 02655 BDY
TR 982 A65 43 G PNT
09B464

THANKS

 

Try this

http://datatagdecoder.com/_beta/form.html

If that doesn't work for you, let me know

 

Cowl tags were riveted onto the car by Fisher Body Works when the car was being jigged and welded/interior fitment/glass etc at the respective FBW plant close to the final assembly line. There is some information that is duplicated with the VIN but the majority of it is specific to the body. It took about 3-5 days to build the body depending on the model and fit it before sending it to the final assembly line for finishing. The car at this stage was only assembled from the cowl to deck lid. (doors and deck lid included)

The cowl deciphers as follows:
ST 72 - 1972 model year production (model years typically started in July and finished around the end of June)
3 - Oldsmobile Division of GM
42 - model: Cutlass Supreme
57 - body style: 2 door hardtop sedan (holiday coupe)
R - Arlington Texas Fisher Body Works. (Final Assembly at Arlington assembly line)
BDY 02655 - Body number assigned to the body by FBW. This is not related to the VIN
TR 982 - Green Orleans cloth trimmed with dark green naugahyde.
A65 - Split bench front seat with fold down armrest
PNT 43/G - Lower body Pinehurst Green, upper body Green vinyl roof
Time built date: 09B Built during the second week (B) of September (09) 1971.
464??? You sure about this? Could it be B85 by chance? If it is that's belt line moldings on the top of the door and quarter panel window reveal.

This is what your car might have looked like new out of the box

 

Thanks guys that helps me a lot

 

and another question I know this might be a dumb but bear with me some is telling the w-31 would be to much for a daily driver so now Im looking into the rallye 350 motor now to get the engine specs to build my motor like the 350 I need to find a factory 1970 or a 1971 or 1969 repair manual right?

 

If I understand you correctly, the answer is yes, the L-74 350 V8 used in the Rallye 350 would be easier to live with than the W-31 as a daily driver.

If you're going to do ANY work at all on your car, you need a Chassis Service Manual. You can find one on E-Bay.

 

Thanks guys for bearing with me and my stupidity. Because I gotta few more lol. 1st question how hard and whats involved with putting a 700R4 vs 200R4 tranny in because I would love an overdrive gear. 2nd question is what size gears should go into the rear end to get good low end toque and but wont kill me in the RPM's on freeway ? I just ordered my 1970 chassis manual on CD so I can build my L74. OK I lied I have 3 questions will that manual tell me everything I know for the drive train to do to my 1972 other then body work? Thanks guys for taking the time to help me I'm lost and want to to get done right.

 

Your manual might not be too much help with a tranny swap, but contains a wealth of other information. Try searching threads here using "2004R" and "700R4" as search terms. I'm not experienced with the swap myself, but I'm pretty sure it's been written about extensively on here. If not, somebody will probably be along shortly to share their experience.

As for gears, you can go pretty radical and still reduce your highway RPM below what you're getting now. I'd probably shoot for something around a 3.73.

 

You're being too critical of yourself - these questions aren't stupid at all. Call it a learning curve - maybe a steep one but that's about all.

The 200 4R and 700 4R are both good transmissions that will give you the 'economy' you're looking for at the final drive range. The gears for 1,2 and 3 are very similar to the TH350 you already have, but the overdrive gear is .67:1 which will bring down your revs quite a bit.

The 200 4R is a more popular because it bolts right in without having to modify or replace the driveshaft. Also keep in mind that you'll need to install a TV (Throttle Valve) cable and have it set up properly or you'll burn out the tranny very quickly.

If you're looking for a change in torque at the rear without changing the transmission, seriously think about 3.08:1 gears. They are a big improvement over stock 2.56 or 2.73 and will also give you reasonable mileage on the highway.

Changes to gearing means you also need to change out the speedo drive gear at the transmission (maybe also the sleeve and driven gear depending on what you go with) to the proper one for the application.

Overall tire size is going to play a role. Have you considered what size wheels and tires you're going to run? When you're talking about performance and economy the two don't always equate. Good looking wheels and tires are always something that are noticed however.

re: the 1972 CSM. No it won't tell you everything. It was originally designed for GM mechanics who already have basic or advanced knowledge and skills to do the work needed. That's the part that a beginner won't find in the CSM, otherwise it's pretty comprehensive and easy to follow. I hope you got an original off the net, because the scanned pics in the reproduced manuals are crap.

 

Thanks on the tire size I'm torn between keeping it stock 14 inch or bumping up either to a set a 15x7 on the front with 15x8 for the rears or 17 inch rims. And that's cool idea on the rear end and plus it sounds cheaper and an easier (for a good shop to do of course lol). I have a basic knowledge of stuff to to do as in tear down replace but none of technical stuff as what will work and what wont.Thanks a lot for all help. how about the CD version of manuals how good are they? And the only reason I'm getting the 1970 manual to build my motor to L74 specs for the HP and torque and to help me the guessing game on what parts to use lol.

 

Finding 14" tires might be a bit of a chore. You might be better to go with the 15x7 or larger. The bolt pattern for the stock 15" SS wheels are the same as 14". I have the same issue and I'm seriously thinking of aftermarket rims in the 15 or 16" area. I changed out my rear gears from 2.73 (which is axle code SA) to 3.42 and also put in a limited slip (aka posi).

The stock axle for 1972 CS with a 350 CID is a 2.73:1 SA axle. It's a decent compromise for city/hiway and delivers reasonable mileage. If you change out the gears at a shop expect to pay a fair chunk of change. I'd recommend you talk with Jim Mitcshke (monzaz) on this site. He owns JD Race and specializes in rear diffs and gears. He can give you superior guidance on how to proceed with your project. The carrier I have in my car was bought from him and he does quality work.

Here's a link to his on line site

 

Functionally the only real difference on that 70 Engine and the 72 is the low compresion big dish pistons on the 71-72.. Just use a stock 4 barrel intake and do the rebuild with the 68-70 10.25:1 rated piston which is really around 9.5:1 as long as you dont mill the heads excessively and or deck the block surface.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Speed-Pro-TR...-/151062525120

What ever you do , do not use the tiny crap 187/200 @ 050 .400/.400" stock cam that came in the automatics. Use the 4 speed cam factory rated 286/286 .472/.472" 114 LSA its around 210/210 @ 050 with a dual exhaust.

http://www.supercarsunlimited.com/35...aft-d1100.aspx

If your budget allows bump to bigger 2.07/1.71 SS valves , they actually are the least expensive valve to get anyway and do a bowl blend pocket port and you will have nice strong combo..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Olds-350-455...1bdc75&vxp=mtr

 

Thanks gearman69 that the combo is definitely the one I'll use, now do I need to bore the block out or is that stock piston size to get that compression? And thanks again for the the links and all!!

 

Boring out is based on condition of what you have first before buying piston. This piston has a very small dish versus your 72 stock one that has a large dish, that is where the differences are.

 

Hows it going guys got the motor rebuilt now I'm trying to figure out headers or no headers that is the question, I went withe build and the parts that Gearman69 gave and had to bore the block .30 over. Ok the dilemma is I got an exhaust system that bolts up to factory manifolds I have to install a crossover pipe give it the 'H' in h-pipe but I have people telling me with headers my car is going to be loud coming from the engine bay now is this true because i know i'll get a performance boost from stock to headers so Im asking how loud would it be now remember it gonna be my daily driver whats everybody's opinion and if you got the facts lay em on me I need all the knowledge I can and thank you for taking the time to help.

 

dear Gearman69 I've finally started ordering all my parts got the motor pulled out just one question with this set up would I need a vacuum pump for brakes and what not?