Hi,
I just purchased a 85 Toro with 88K on it, I was wondering if it would be beneficial using synthetic fluids? The car runs great and previous owner states engine does not burn oil. I was just curious if the car would benefit using synthetics.

Any thoughts?
Tony

 

I have been using Mobil One in my cars for 40 years. Best thing you can do for an engine . I usually change it every 10,000 miles (just cause I feel guilty) .
The wear protection is far superior to conventional oil . And , these days it really doesn't cost that much more .
The extended drain interval alone makes it more economical.
In the transmission though , stick with Dexron III/Mercon . These transmissions were not built for synthetic fluid

 

I do not advocate changing an engine to synthetic unless it's new or rebuilt, and done just after the initial change. Rear ends and manual trans, sure, any time. Auto trans I have not thought about and agree with Charlie.

 

Something to think about with synthetics. I tried them on my 55 and developed new weeping valve and pan gaskets. All were cork type and that might have been the reason, I don't know but they stopped after I went back to dino oil. Your millage may differ.... Tedd

 

Naturally you will get a full range of opinions on this subject. I have had an Amsoil dealer's membership since 1999 and will praise its quality not based on others, but my own experiences. I use it in my daily ride (1992), and change every year with filter changes every six months with zero problems.... This said, I have standard issue oil in my 1940 straight eight car for the sake of zinc content and minimal general annual usage. I would not be intimidated to use a synthetic in your mid eighties vehicle so long as you followed the oil's flushing procedures.. However, if you do not intend to accrue many miles per year, your benifit may be negligible.. Weigh the expense of synthetic oil against usage and frequency of maintenance. I run standard Rotella in my Duramax not because of a lack in faith of Amsoil, but rather a lack of frequent use. I only use the truck for hauling, or for a monthly excercise.. Not for a daily affirmation of my manhood like some....

 

Why ?
I've have switched many engines over to synthetic oil over the years and have had nothing but good results .

 

Oil is still kinda a mystery. Some say no synthetic for hydraulic/mechanical lifter cams. Some say Rotella for hydraulic/mechanical lifter cams because of ZDDP.
All my Olds have hydraulic lifter cams. All my "old motorcycles" (1959 to 1978) have flat tappet cams. It sure would be nice to buy the same oil for all.

 

If you don't do many miles between oil changes a good mineral oil will be fine. If you are putting the car to hard use, like towing, racing, driving in extreme conditions, then a synthetic won't degrade as quickly.

It seems synthetic oils don't like cork gaskets, otherwise the only downside I see is the extra cost if you don't run extended oci's.

Roger.

 

You could try a heavier weight synthetic engine oil. I went from a conventional 5w30 to 5w50 synthetic in a couple of vehicles. The Toyota Tercel with 360+KM now uses/leaks much less oil. I also did this on our Challenger, ticking 3.5 that uses some oil, it helped a bit on both. The 307 was 10W40 factory, try a 5W40 or 10W40 synthetic. The trans fluid I agree on but almost all my trans leak some except the Toyota Tercel and Dodge Challenger. The new Dexron 6 is superior but in the quest for better mileage, thinner and at least a synthetic blend. I honestly considered it for my 88 fo maximum mileage but have enough issues keeping conventional Dexron 3 in the 2004R.

 

Beware of changing viscosity on the late model cars, it may cause VVT and cam actuator failure issues. It may also cause false check engine lights, poor idle, and poor engine performance. I used to sell cars and the service dept. screwed up a few engines by not following recommendations. It took months to figure out why the engines would not run correctly or not at all.

 

Dino oils have inherent properties (chemicals in them) to keep seals swollen and soft. Additives are used with syn oils to do this, and may not work as well. I see no reason to change your Olds over to syn lubes. Just get high quality lubes, and any flat tappet engine needs ZDDP in a good percentage.

 

So far, all is good, I have been running the 5W50 for a year.

 

I've always used Mobil Delvac 15W-40 on my '56 since the engine was rebuilt.

Lots more discussion on the subject at the bottom of the thread.

 

Could consider running a semi synthetic, best of both worlds.

 

Hi All,
I appreciate the feedback and information provided. I will stick with a high quality conventional oil for the engine (Mobil 1?).

Would it beneficial adding any gasoline additive to the car occasionally (Techron) ?

Tony

 

Mobil 1 is synthetic oil . And the best choice .

 

Depends on the quality of gasoline you buy . Let's just say it can't hurt .
If you don't drive the car daily , it is a good idea to put a bottle of gas de-icer which contains isopropyl alcohol , in the tank when you fill up.
Isopropyl alcohol will mix water and gas in a tank that may get condensation in it from sitting . If the water mixes with the gas , it will be burned up and can't cause trouble .

 

The old formula Quaker State Defy Synthetic blend oil was a very good choice, SL rated. It had seal conditioner and 1000+ ZDDP and affordable. I have a stock pile of the old stuff. Of course it is now SN rated but they still claim boosted zinc, can't be enough for flat tappet cams under a SN rating. Even my 260 didn't like SN 10W40, developed a tick, changed the oil to SL and it went away. I have been running SL motorcycle oil. Some of it is now is even SM. Most diesel oil is now SM or even SN. New formula Rotella is no good for our old motors.

 

Please tell me about that tick. Was it all the lifters, or a few or one? What is SN and SL? I ask because I have one pesky lifter ticking, and I'm using conventional Valvoline 10/40. Thank you very much.

 

Hard to say if it was one or more ticking, the 260 cam is even more pathetic than the regular stock cam. New SN rated oil, on the back of the bottle has 800 ppm zinc and 600 ppm phosphorus maximum, also known as ZDDP. An SL rated oil has 1100 ppm zinc and 1000 ppm phosphorus allowed, enough for a mild flat tappet and mild spring pressure motor. The specific hot rod oils out there have more like the old SH rating of 1300 ppm and 1200 ppm phosphorus. Some have even more than that level. It may have been a coincidence but needless to say, no more SN rated oil in my older flat tappet cars.