Certifiction Label 1970 Cutlass
Certifiction Label 1970 Cutlass
In Charlie's thread on the glove box label the diagramme of the door labels from Section 0 page 110 of the assembly was posted. It references a "Certification Label".
What is the "Certification Label" ? Is this the sticker that has the VIN and build date?
I have this sticker but have never filled it in becasue I did not know the correct placement of the VIN and date, nor the format of the date, the font and spacing.
Can anyone advise me on this?
Thanks, Peter
What is the "Certification Label" ? Is this the sticker that has the VIN and build date?
I have this sticker but have never filled it in becasue I did not know the correct placement of the VIN and date, nor the format of the date, the font and spacing.
Can anyone advise me on this?
Thanks, Peter
Yes, the certification label is that green label you mentioned. It first started with the 1970 production year cars. I don't have any pictures of an Olds certification label, but the pictures below are from my 1970 Pontiac GTO (a Fremont car). It shows the location of the label on the driver door, and where the build date and the VIN are placed on the label. With regards to the date, I've seen some people put in a - rather than a / between the month and year for the build date. It's supposed to be a /. And, if you are very near the end of the month for your build date on the car on your cowl tag, your sticker might very well show a build date in the next month. The build date of my GTO is 10E, or the 5th week of October 1969. But the label says 11/69. I don't know the font - someone else will have to chime in on that!
Randy C.
Randy C.
Randy,
I agree with your analysis of / vs -- . In 1972 the door certification label was changed to include the GVWR and the front/rear GAWR's in addition to the VIN and build month/year. 1971 (I think) the color of the certification label also changed to more blue than greenish.
As far as font goes, there's a vague reference in the AM to the type of ribbon used for TYPEWRITERS or IBM machines. So if you find a vintage one of those it's probably going to be the one. Done some research on this before and I've noticed that Lansing print is different than Freemont which is different than Framingham.... see a pattern emerging? I think these labels were made with machines that just happened to be in service at each facility. Likely either a steno pool or IBM printer made the labels depending on what was available.
Here are 2 more examples. The first is a 1973 OEM sticker.

The second is a certification label I had made for my car because the original was destroyed when the car was re-sprayed. It has the right info, but the -- instead of /.

I don't mind the mistake since the real intention of the sticker is to show how the car would be decaled from the factory. Notice I also have the Canadian Import sticker.
I agree with your analysis of / vs -- . In 1972 the door certification label was changed to include the GVWR and the front/rear GAWR's in addition to the VIN and build month/year. 1971 (I think) the color of the certification label also changed to more blue than greenish.
As far as font goes, there's a vague reference in the AM to the type of ribbon used for TYPEWRITERS or IBM machines. So if you find a vintage one of those it's probably going to be the one. Done some research on this before and I've noticed that Lansing print is different than Freemont which is different than Framingham.... see a pattern emerging? I think these labels were made with machines that just happened to be in service at each facility. Likely either a steno pool or IBM printer made the labels depending on what was available.
Here are 2 more examples. The first is a 1973 OEM sticker.

The second is a certification label I had made for my car because the original was destroyed when the car was re-sprayed. It has the right info, but the -- instead of /.

I don't mind the mistake since the real intention of the sticker is to show how the car would be decaled from the factory. Notice I also have the Canadian Import sticker.
Thanks Guys. Does anyone have a photo of a 1970 example? I notice that Randy's 69 GTO does not reference the vehicle weights, yet Alan's 72 does.
Finding an old IBM typewriter is going to be fun!
Finding an old IBM typewriter is going to be fun!
[QUOTE=Allan R;521606]Randy,
I agree with your analysis of / vs -- . In 1972 the door certification label was changed to include the GVWR and the front/rear GAWR's in addition to the VIN and build month/year.
peter, good thread! i think the above answers your question why the 69 sticker does not have gvwr.
I agree with your analysis of / vs -- . In 1972 the door certification label was changed to include the GVWR and the front/rear GAWR's in addition to the VIN and build month/year.
peter, good thread! i think the above answers your question why the 69 sticker does not have gvwr.
Scott,
That's a PERFECT example of what I was saying earlier. The font for the VIN on that car is completely different than the one I posted earlier. What's really really interesting though is the use of the - instead of / in the month/year identification. That's really inconsistent since that R350 was Lansing built and so was the 98 I posted. Gee, does that 'validate' my reproduction sticker??
That's a PERFECT example of what I was saying earlier. The font for the VIN on that car is completely different than the one I posted earlier. What's really really interesting though is the use of the - instead of / in the month/year identification. That's really inconsistent since that R350 was Lansing built and so was the 98 I posted. Gee, does that 'validate' my reproduction sticker??
I think the front section of the assembly manual shows the location of the sticker. It was different between a coupe and a convertible. In 1970, would show the date as xx/xx at the top right and the VIN lower. There are a couple of different decals floating around as repros so be careful as some are noticeably incorrect in color or shape - square edges. My Olds was completely painted over. My Buick just had a bit of paint over it.
Yea Allan - this is Section 0 page 110 of the assembly manual. You posted it on Charlie Rogers thread. It is what prompted me to start this thread.
Any other photos of originals would be welcome. I am calling out locally to try and find an IBM typewriter.
Believe it or not but I still have a functioning Underwood trypewriter that my Mom gave me for my 16th birthday (am trying to figure out how to re-ink the ribbon). I thought it was the greatest thing since sliced bread at the time. Can you imagine giving our kids such a thing for their 16th these days - oh yea, we do - it is called a Microsoft Surface.
Any other photos of originals would be welcome. I am calling out locally to try and find an IBM typewriter.
Believe it or not but I still have a functioning Underwood trypewriter that my Mom gave me for my 16th birthday (am trying to figure out how to re-ink the ribbon). I thought it was the greatest thing since sliced bread at the time. Can you imagine giving our kids such a thing for their 16th these days - oh yea, we do - it is called a Microsoft Surface.
Peter,
I bet you that old Underwood will be darned close to the font type you need. Instead of trying to re-ink? Just buy a new one
New Underwood ribbon
From what I'm seeing on these labels, there's font differences so your typewriter may very well be just fine.
I bet you that old Underwood will be darned close to the font type you need. Instead of trying to re-ink? Just buy a new one
New Underwood ribbon
From what I'm seeing on these labels, there's font differences so your typewriter may very well be just fine.
Peter,
I bet you that old Underwood will be darned close to the font type you need. Instead of trying to re-ink? Just buy a new one
New Underwood ribbon
From what I'm seeing on these labels, there's font differences so your typewriter may very well be just fine.
I bet you that old Underwood will be darned close to the font type you need. Instead of trying to re-ink? Just buy a new one
New Underwood ribbon
From what I'm seeing on these labels, there's font differences so your typewriter may very well be just fine.
As for font what I have noticed is that all the ones I have seen are sans-serif fonts, they do vary a bit but none have the serifs on them and most of the really old typewriters seem to have serif fonts as in the example on the ebay link you posted
Ah! Great to know info. Should PM him and ask him if he wants to start a thread for making them for other members. I tried clicking his web link but it doesn't work.
Hey Allan - try: http://www.carshinerestorations.com/contact-us/. Man his shop looks so clean and organized!
I am going to call him.
Peter
I am going to call him.
Peter
Last edited by pcard; Mar 19, 2013 at 12:15 PM.
Peter, that link works. The one I tried from a different thread didn't. Please post what you find out, and whether you have the option to get the / or - in the month/year on the repro.
Hi folks
thanks for the publicity. I make the lables from scanned lables that have been cleaned up in MS paint. Then I cut and paste the VIN and other info. After that I print them on color address lables adjusting the color in the print box. And then I finish by trimming and putting clear premium package tape over the sticker. The first one I did was over ten years ago and it still looks like new. ~BOB
thanks for the publicity. I make the lables from scanned lables that have been cleaned up in MS paint. Then I cut and paste the VIN and other info. After that I print them on color address lables adjusting the color in the print box. And then I finish by trimming and putting clear premium package tape over the sticker. The first one I did was over ten years ago and it still looks like new. ~BOB
Has anyone tried to remove the original decal with any success? I am thinking i may try to use a single edge razor and get under the original paint. Mine don't look new but if i can get it off i will reuse it on the new paint. I have some extra doors i can experiment on.
Last edited by jensenracing77; Mar 19, 2013 at 04:47 PM.
That might just work Eric. When I got the Canadian import sticker for my car I used a razor blade and took my time working around it. You might try something like a hair dryer on high heat to help loosen up some of the old gum on the back? Don't know it that will work on something that old but maybe try on those other spare doors? Keeping the original sticker will be really a nice touch. You might be able to trim the overlay on that and get Bob to send you a new one to fasten it all back down when you're done?
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