Andy

Looking at all the info on companies like Driven, Brad Penn, Royal Purple and Gibbs there is some conflicting info. Maybe someone can help clear it up for me.
They all advertise straight weight along with multi weight break in oils..which is best for a 455 Olds in warm climate?
Some say break in the cam and run fora short time, change oil and filter to a standard oil or like valvoline vr1 with a reasonable zddp content..Others say drive 500-1000 miles on the break in oil to seat rings and all engine components?
Which weight should one use and which advice on length of time to keep break in oil in the crankcase?

442Harv

I might drive it a few miles, but not 500-1000. Just a few, than change oil and filter. I use Brad Penn.

OLDSter Ralph

Andy, there are various "break in routines" being used now. In the "old days" you ran break in oil for a number of miles and adhered to maximum rpm/speed limits, then changed oil. Now, various components are higher quality, some are lower quality and motor oil is different. Higher valve spring rates are also a consideration.
Driven and Valvoline oils would be my first choice. I generally follow Cutlassefi's recommendations. The choice is yours.

fleming442

Nothing semi or full synthetic.... I ran 750 miles on the break in with a roller cam, then, I put the Brad Penn (semi-syn) in it.

oldcutlass

I do a standard cam breakin with 30wt non detergent and bottle of gm eos. Then change the oil.

Andy

I hear you, really looking for an explanation as to why some use multi weight versus straight weight in a break in oil.. royal purple say drive 500-1000 miles before changing, others say just till broke in like 50 miles etc, others say after 30 minutes of running? . I’m really just trying to understand the different mindsets based on fact, like anything you get 50 different answers from 50 different companies. I’ll give you an example, I emailed driven and told them where I lived, warm climate, 455 olds street performance, Main, and Rod bearing clearances and should I use the straight weight or the multi and which one. I got two different answers from two different people from driven company.. one says use the 20/50 break in, the other one says use the 5/30 break in oil..they say run 30 minutes then change to a new filter and another round of break in oil.. The big scheme of things are probably don’t matter whatever is 20/50 or 5/30 or straight 30 break in oil..curiosity I guess, same thing with hydraulic lifters..

fleming442

Given the crap metal cams and lifters are made from these days, I'd err toward the heavy side. I am assuming from "break in" in the 1st post that it's a flat tappet cam and lifters. Take no more chances than you already are.

OLDSter Ralph

Thats how we broke in engines "back in the day". There was no "cam break in", it was "Engine break in", and it was 500 miles.

Andy, "Royal Purple" doesn't know anything about YOUR engine and what parts are used. I do think 500 miles to seat in things and check for leaks is reasonable. In my opinion, bearings, valves and valve train don't need break in. Piston rings need time/miles to seat.
A new camshaft and flat tappet lifters are the items that seem to need this special short time break in. This has become a problem due to much higher valve spring pressures. I am of the belief that cam blanks and flat tappet material has changed over the years and the source for those cam blanks is a question. The country that those cam blanks come from does not manufacture to American standards. If the company receiving the batches of cam blanks doesn't do any testing of each batch, they have no clue what they received.
.....Just my two cents worth.

Andy

Thanks..so much info, misinfo and flat out bullshit on the inter web. Hard to tell sometimes which is which

oldsmobilejim

Break-in: Valvoline 30 wt. with zinc and cam additive. Prime with adapter and drill, till oil is visible on all 16 lifters. Install valve covers and distributor. With the ignition off, crank till you read the oil pressure. Turn the ignition on and start, “set timing to stock.” Bring up to 2000 rpm for twenty minutes monitoring oil and temp. Change the oil, and get that junk out of there. You can then run Valvoline 10-30 with zinc. Always have mufflers connected during break-in. So you can hear if you have any issues. Good luck… Oldsmobile Jim

Andy

I used brad penn 30 weight green oil break in, cam broke in fantastic..however herein Florida its mid 80’s and with the engine running at 200 to 205 degrees my oil pressure was not to great, like after warm up it was as low as 10 psi at 700 rpm and no higher than 30-35 at cruising, didn’t really climb..so after cam break in and 25 minutes of driving to break in more I finally dropped the break in oil and went to valvoline vr1 20/50 high zinc oil..oil pressure is at 20 psi totally warmed up and goes no higher than 40-42 psi at any rpm..( didn’t rev past 3800 as its new)
I used the stock melling pump, stock spring so my question is about the oil pressure. Maxing out at 42-44 psi is that alright for a new rebuild? Seems a bit low to me but maybe its just nervous thinking.

OLDSter Ralph

"stock melling pump, stock spring, bypass spring not shimmed, didn't rev past 3,800 RPM's. oil pressure maxing out at 42-44 psi"
What were you expecting ?

Andy

Not sure, I am not an-engine builder..machine shop put it together..Olds engineers used stock spring, stock pump so are you saying that oil pressure is perfect understock conditions? What about the low oil pressure with 30 weight break in oil?

oldsmobilejim

Oldsmobilejim here getting back to ya. It’s not the oil, Who built the short block, something isn’t correct or in the specification (tolerance). Before you start second-guessing though I would check a few things. What about the oil pressure gauge? You mention a stock pump and screen, what about the pan is it stock if so is it dented? There is a minimum gap between the pump screen and the pan. If questionable you're going to have to pull the motor and check it. I’m sure other guys on this forum have suggestions. Pretty sharp guys on here. Keep us updated.

Might try changing oil filter

matt69olds

cut the oil filter open, if anything is wearing or damaged you will see the debris there.

Andy

Break in oil was clean, nothing metallic, oil filter clean no debris..upon cold start with new filter and valvoline 20/50 vr1 oil pressure is at 50 plus cold, once completely warmed after some driving it , idles at 20 psi..talked to the machine shop, he said every engine different and yes if his son would have put the high pressure spring in it would help a little but the oil pressure with the 20/50 in Florida is no concern at all as the pressure is strong until it gets hot and thins out a little..so right now I will get a few hundred miles on it and keep monitoring it..after doing a lot of research I see many 455’s with 15-20 psi at idle..looking back I should have put a high volume pump in it. Runs great, idles great,

chopolds

I do my engines just about the same way we did them when I worked at Exxon Reasearch (where we built engines a LOT, testing the effects of wear on many different engine parts) Break in oil during cam break in, and while setting timing, and mixture (well, not mixture, but baseline idle speed for FI vehicles). Dump the oil, put in more break in oil, run for 500 on-the-road miles, then regular oil after that.