Can this be fixed?
Just picked up this engine at Carlisle and thought I looked it over well.

Its the correct date, ‘65 B block, A heads for one of my 442’s so I’d love to save it.
(I do have other blocks I could use to help repair it)

As you can see one of the starter bolt holes is cracked in half.

 

Do you know a good welding shop where they know how to braze cast iron ? Brazing a couple broken pieces together is different than building up an area with brazing rod.

 

You need someone that can weld cast iron.

 

There is a nickel rod available for tig welding cast iron. I just had a fairly substantial repair done on a very rare Buick cylinder head.

 

I had a 350 with a similar break. I didn’t have the missing piece so a buddy of mine welded a bolt to that location. I’m not sure what he used but he was able to get securely attached and it stayed that way for several years until I sold the car.

 

Given that the 800 lb GM starter hangs from that pad, I'd weld, not braze. Welding cast iron isn't the mystical voodoo that most make it out to be. There used to be an old school welder near me (who unfortunately passed away a few years ago) who routinely stick welded cast iron farm equipment. I had him repair a drill press base for me. That was over 20 years ago and still no issues. Nickel rod is a must. The repair is far enough from critical surfaces that I doubt you'll have a distortion problem. I assume you plan to go through the motor anyway, so critical surfaces will be machined no matter what.

 

Thank you for the different angles guys.
It gives me hope.
And yes, I was thinking it was a mystical practice that involved the dark arts.

 

Peter, there is at least one shop in Jax that should be able to weld repair that block. Used to be a cylinder head repair shop on 103rd street that did that type of work. There are probably others now.

 

Thanks Jim!

 

You might have to grind the existing bolt hole out and fill a larger area with the nickel. It'll be next to impossible to drill a straight hole thats half cast iron and half nickel. The bit will deflect to the soft cast iron, even in a jig. Drilling and tapping will be the most difficult part of the repair.

 

Welder buddy welded an ear onto my 68 400 exhaust manifold with nickle rod. That was 40 years ago. Its still good. I remember him saying the key is to cool it down super slow, and do the usual good practice weld prep...v grinding, cleanliness etc..

He gas heated the whole manifold, welded then wrapped it in a asbestos heat blanket over night.

Grind/file it smooth and go.

 

I would also be sure to use the side brace for the starter, even if you have to fab one.