johnspd22

Just looking for an opinion or any experience someone may have had with the installation of the low cost E-Bay tubular control arms (low cost copies of global west/hotchkis etc).

Always want to do a suspension upgrade, but the major players materials are out of reach.

Some advice for a man on a budget is appreciated.

Aceshigh

Are you planning on road racing the car, track racing it, Autocross, etc ??
IF not, It's just another one of those things to just dump money into with minimal return IMO.

http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sho...021#post627021

I have SC&C adjustable front upper control arms on my 78 pro-touring Z28 I built for road racing.
Mine are totally adjustable for caster, camber, toe in/out, etc.

For non-adjustable one's, you can't tell on a car that's driven on the street.

firefrost gold

Check out umi performance. They might not have them up yet but they do make them. The test car they have has them on . price is better than global west but arm looks very close only painted red?

Aceshigh

UMI performance, BMR racing, and Spohn's are not going to be inexpensive options.

I think you can invest money in better places for now.
If you have front drums brakes, start there.

These are big heavy cars......you're not going to compete in these.
I wasted money on UMI roto-joint rear UCA's on mine, and I can't even tell they're in there.
I can tweak my height though...which is why I wanted them.

johnspd22

I have front discs already, so I dont need to upgrade (yet). The car basically handles poorly just in around town driving. I dont drive it crazy, but I have had fullsize GM cars that handled better.

Maybe some tweaking of the stock set up would do. I already upgraded the sway bar but that didnt change anything but the far limit agressive steering feel. All other parts of the car are stock (original).

Any other items to check/upgrade?

oldzy

Springs for sure. They make a big difference, as well as shocks (Bilstein's are a good one). Frame braces also.

I have the Hothckis TVS system with HPS1000 Bilstein's. Still not sure why I got it, and still not sure what parts if any to use in my resto. I sway bars seem to be the best thing out of it to use, 1" solid rear and 1 3/8" hollow front. The Hotchkis a-arms are crazy expensive.

MDchanic

If you've driven full-sizes that handled better, then there's something wrong, and new control arms won't fix it.

Sometimes really obvious things, like control arm bushings without any rubber in them, can be surprisingly hard to see. You should check all the usual stuff: bushings, tie rods, pittman arm, idler arm, shocks, wheel bearings before buying anything new.

- Eric

johnspd22

Will do!

Aceshigh

Absolutely good advice. As well as MD mechanic, replace all your rubber bushings first.

This is where you get into spending some coin......

I bought the Hotchkis TVS and HPS1000's (Bilsteins valved for it) for my 1978 z28. Now my impression is it's VERY VERY tight around corners, but somewhat a stiff ride. However, I also put aluminum solid bushings under my subframe. So it's DEFINITELY an improvement for track racing. However, I'd strongly recommend new body bushings everywhere too. I also have the adjustable UCA"s up front which I can set for aggressive cornering.

johnspd22

My cars pretty rust free, but I am a little scared when thinking about removing the body bushing bolts. I have heard some horror stories. Any advice on the removal/replacement? (ie. torch, rust penetrant etc.)

oldzy

Do they look purty like mine?

Aceshigh

Spray them with PB Blaster a few times over the course of a week. It will soak in.
Use a compressor and air gun to get them out after 1 final blast.

Then just wire brush them or wire wheel them with a drill.
All new body bushings is a must on these 40 year old cars.
The rubber is seriously decayed.