Ok, so I have crushed glass and 40:60 aluminum oxide. I might carefully try the crushed glass on the thermostat and aluminum throttle return cable. Is the aluminum oxide to abrasive? The aluminium oxide sure cleaned my 330 flywheel in a hurry, looks almost new from a lot of surface rust.

 

I have only blasted with garnet( in a few different grits) and steel shot, I like the way aluminum looks after some steel shot, but you can’t stop moving and stay a decent ways away. I imagine if I can get away with that you’d be fine with either choice.

 

I used the glass, it took about 8 hoppers worth. It flies everywhere compared to the aluminum oxide. This was the final outcome. I am going to paint it with VHT high temp aluminum.

 

But bare blasted aluminum looks so good.

 

With some VHT high temp aluminum.

 

Turned out good

 

I used glass bead at a lower pressure and it left a nice satin finish I think the aluminum oxide is too abrasive.

 

Yeah, that is why I went with the glass bead. The aluminium oxide is great for removing rust. My bought for a great price 330 flex plate because it was rusty now looks almost new. If actually looks better than the good condition one I got from Dsle Robinson. Amazing what blasting can do. I saw the results of vapor blasting on intakes on another site, looked brand new in the pics.

 

Soda blasting aluminum parts look the best. A lot of guys use it on old aluminum motorcycle and snowmobile motors.I

 

The biggest issue with blasting an intake, no matter what media you use, is getting every single bit of it out. Just one small piece of media will kill a bearing or piston ring etc. I typically run them through my big spray washer for at least 30 minutes and then use a hose to get into every place possible. Then dry them out in an oven and drop them on a wooden work bench 5 or 6 times. You would be amazed at what still comes out

I think a soda blaster is in my near future because of all of the aluminum heads we do. At least the soda dissolves and wont hurt anything if some is left in the part.

 

Yeah, I put it in the sink before I cleaned painted then carb and brake clean and compressed air. Especially since this is going on a rebuilt motor, I will hit with air and brake clean. I also want to blast my block before painting and it will get hit with the pressure washer first and compressed air before assembly.

 

Steel shot is a big no no on Aluminum, nothing wrong with an alum oxide blast since he was painting it, you want a small profile for the paint to adhere to, if your just giving it a refresh use walnuts.

 

I’ve done it on multiple pieces but I like the rough look and do not paint after.

 

Your trying to be helpful but giving him wrong info, steel and alum are not compatible and if you blast it with steel shot it will rust

 

I have not had any rusting at all, I live in Washington and have done two sets of wheels. One set on a daily driver that lives outside and one set that lives in the garage. I do believe it could but if you clean the parts well there won’t be any steel left to rust. I’m simply commenting on what I’ve done and what I like, maybe I’m not being helpful or contributing to this thread I apologize for that.

 

I didnt say you were not helpful, just the opposite. I'm glad you shared your experience, I have been an industrial sandblaster and painter for 25 years so Im just passing along what think is right, dosen't mean that I am though, that's what great about the US and Can we can agree to disagree. besides the possibility of it freckle rusting it can also inbed in Alum since its soft. But I agree with you on using Garnet, that will be fine on Alum. At the end of the day if your happy thats all that matters, have a great day.

 

All good and helpful guys. I will buy a big thing of baking soda to try. What are your thoughts on a block and cast iron heads?

 

And 73 valve covers!