Best way to go
March 12th, 2011, 05:56 AM
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Cambridge England
Posts: 205
Best way to go
Carb on Cutlass 350 4 bbl needs attention. It has not neen touched sense new.would it be best to purchase a re build or find someone that will rebuild the orig one? 56000 orig miles. Andy (back in Los Angeles now)
Last edited by Cecil Anderson; March 12th, 2011 at 05:59 AM.
March 12th, 2011, 06:34 AM
#2
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Just get a rebuild kit and some GumOut and do it yourself.
(fancy carb-soaking solvent IS better, but isn't essential if the carb isn't too bad, and if you're thorough).
The kit I bought at Advance Auto last month was $18, without a float (would be another $9 or so, but I didn't need one).
- Eric
(fancy carb-soaking solvent IS better, but isn't essential if the carb isn't too bad, and if you're thorough).
The kit I bought at Advance Auto last month was $18, without a float (would be another $9 or so, but I didn't need one).
- Eric
March 12th, 2011, 07:03 AM
#4
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Shorewood, Il.
Posts: 3,057
The determining factor to rebuild yours, or to buy a rebuilt, is the primary throttle shaft!
Just grab the shaft at the linkage and check for play - ANY is a vacuum leak!
Most rebuilts will have a bronze bushing installed to eliminate the play!
Just grab the shaft at the linkage and check for play - ANY is a vacuum leak!
Most rebuilts will have a bronze bushing installed to eliminate the play!
March 12th, 2011, 07:06 AM
#5
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
When I first started rebuilding carbs, I found it VERY helpful to do it on a very large sheet (like 16x20") of plain white paper.
Keep the exploded view (should be one in the kit and in the manual) in front of you, read through the instructions before doing it, then go step by step.
Take pictures of the outside linkage before you start, because that's the area where its easy to get confused, but remember, the linkage doesn't have to be completely disassembled.
Put each piece in a logical place on the paper, and write info about where it was from or which way it went if you need to. Count the number of turns to bottom of the adjusting screws, so you can put them in the same place when you put it back together.
Don't drive the roll pin that holds the accel. pump arm in all the way through - only just enough to take the arm off. If you don't need to take the little ear on the bottom of the choke rod off (if you can disconnect it at the top instead), then don't - it's a lot of "fun" to get back on later, down in the hole along the side of the carb.
Clean every piece carefully, blow out all passages first with carb cleaner, then with compressed air (don't squirt your eye!). It helps to read through the lengthy description of how the carb works, so you know where each passage goes and what it does as you clean it - gives you a good feel for what you're really doing, and helps you to be sure everything is open where it needs to be.
Put it back together, be sure the gaskets are in the right way (the old ones will have lines that correspond to the surfaces they were facing, to make it easier), and be sure you don't have any extra parts when you're done
.
True. He should check it, but, at 60,000 miles, he should still be okay.
- Eric
Keep the exploded view (should be one in the kit and in the manual) in front of you, read through the instructions before doing it, then go step by step.
Take pictures of the outside linkage before you start, because that's the area where its easy to get confused, but remember, the linkage doesn't have to be completely disassembled.
Put each piece in a logical place on the paper, and write info about where it was from or which way it went if you need to. Count the number of turns to bottom of the adjusting screws, so you can put them in the same place when you put it back together.
Don't drive the roll pin that holds the accel. pump arm in all the way through - only just enough to take the arm off. If you don't need to take the little ear on the bottom of the choke rod off (if you can disconnect it at the top instead), then don't - it's a lot of "fun" to get back on later, down in the hole along the side of the carb.
Clean every piece carefully, blow out all passages first with carb cleaner, then with compressed air (don't squirt your eye!). It helps to read through the lengthy description of how the carb works, so you know where each passage goes and what it does as you clean it - gives you a good feel for what you're really doing, and helps you to be sure everything is open where it needs to be.
Put it back together, be sure the gaskets are in the right way (the old ones will have lines that correspond to the surfaces they were facing, to make it easier), and be sure you don't have any extra parts when you're done
.- Eric
Last edited by MDchanic; March 12th, 2011 at 07:08 AM.
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