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Personally I would do every single thing you can before you drop the body. So so much easier. Just do it right. I know you will. So much easier to put all that in while you have nothing in the way. Then you can drop the body down and you are set.
personally i would do every single thing you can before you drop the body. So so much easier. Just do it right. I know you will. So much easier to put all that in while you have nothing in the way. Then you can drop the body down and you are set.
You are absolutely correct. Without the weight to compress things yes very difficult. But it gets done many times. I would do every single I could first. Especially brake lines. Fuel lines best etc etc. You can do them all perfectly with nothing in the way. I have had enough bleeding knuckles.
If you chain the floor jack to the frame, you can compress the springs with little le weight on frame. The hardest part will be doing this without damaging the paint on all those shiny parts.
If you chain the floor jack to the frame, you can compress the springs with little le weight on frame. The hardest part will be doing this without damaging the paint on all those shiny parts.
Already did the springs just like you said with a floor jack and a chain used a moving blanket between the chain and the control arm to minimize any paint damage.
Already did the springs just like you said with a floor jack and a chain used a moving blanket between the chain and the control arm to minimize any paint damage.
Awesome. Hell yes. You are set then. Body and interior etc last. Super cool to hear that is done. 👍
As you posted, don't torque control arm bushings front or rear until the weight is on them and you have bounced the suspension a couple of times. Steering linkages, ball joints and sway bar bushings to frame etc. should be fine to torque now. I'd leave the front sway bar end links until the weight is on them but it probably isn't critical like the control arm bushings.
Already did the springs just like you said with a floor jack and a chain used a moving blanket between the chain and the control arm to minimize any paint damage.
Well, if you want to do control arm bushings and ball joints as stated in the first post, you're going to do it again. That was smart. Error in procedure!
What a nice way to do it, I love those dollies, do they work with the full weight of the car? Neat!
Yes, the dollies work with the full weight, an old-timer let me borrow them, gonna try to buy them off him.
Decent working height. without tires in the way.
If you chain the floor jack to the frame, you can compress the springs with little le weight on frame. The hardest part will be doing this without damaging the paint on all those shiny parts.
So I'm square, this means wrapping a chain under the floor-jack front end, wrapping it around the control arms, then lifting the pumpkin?
So I'm square, this means wrapping a chain under the floor-jack front end, wrapping it around the control arms, then lifting the pumpkin?
With the chain over the top control arm and under the jack, as you jack it up the chain compresses the spring and you can connect the second side of the spindle.
At least that's how I did it.
Put the metal motor pads back on the frame while the arms are out or else it'll be a bit more difficult to maneuver. As others have mentioned, put the engine, trans, driveshaft, brake lines, fuel lines, exhaust, etc. back in before the body. I'd recommend the e-brake cables, too. Loosen the suspension at the front and leave it that way for now; do not torque the suspension until you have all the weight. I'd also double check your spring location to ensure everything is seated properly. Good luck.
As you posted, don't torque control arm bushings front or rear until the weight is on them and you have bounced the suspension a couple of times. Steering linkages, ball joints and sway bar bushings to frame etc. should be fine to torque now. I'd leave the front sway bar end links until the weight is on them but it probably isn't critical like the control arm bushings.
Good luck!!!
If you have installed urethane bushings (which I highly recommend) you can torque the bolts any time as the bushings spin freely in the sleeves. If you have installed factory style rubber bushings, the factory PIM has a spec where you can simulate ride height by setting a distance from the axle to the frame; then you can torque 'em down with the body off.
Originally Posted by matt69olds
If you chain the floor jack to the frame, you can compress the springs with little le weight on frame. The hardest part will be doing this without damaging the paint on all those shiny parts.
Why go to all this trouble when you can use a spring compressor?
As a trivia note, the factory used spring compressors and installed the front springs on the assembly line while the frame was inverted.
I already had the control arms and springs installed before installing the engine mounting pads.
I managed to get them in with the use of a universal joint socket wasn't too bad less than a half-hour to get all six bolts in.
The bolt kit I got did not have the flat washers that the assembly manual shows.
Is that going to be a problem not having them?
Install trans dipstick tube
Install brake distribution block and brake lines that go up to the master cylinder
I know the engine is painted, but with factory A/C and Power Disc Brakes, installing BBO notched valve covers would be highly recommended
Install metal line for transmission modulator.
Transmission cooler lines.
Maybe battery tube and positive battery cable to starter.
Maybe speed-o cable
Lube all grease fittings.
Cotter pins in tie rod nuts.
Personally, I like to fire them up and run them before the body is on. This way if there is a leak, you can fix it without having to lean over new fenders. This was mine
I would consider the trans bell housing paint stencil if it is available before you put it together. I only say that because it looks like a piece of art work so far.. 😁
Nice - a lot of good progress. It will be a great milestone once you re-unite the body with the frame!
You might want to try adjusting those transmission lines. I realize that the radiator side isn't hooked up but it looks like the lines are in contact with the headers in a couple of spots.
If you can't tweak them now make a note to take another look at them in the future when the body, fender well and radiator are installed.
Also make sure speedometer cable is routed away from the header once the body goes on.
Perhaps consider paint masking right before you drop the body on like something over the frame with holes at the motor mounts that you can tear away after paint.
Ok, got the backlink in place.
With luck, tomorrow will be the day.
I don't have cage nuts for the front mounts only regular hex nuts currently.
Not sure if that's something I can pick up locally.
Well, the body is on!
I left the hoists in place in case I have to tweak it a little.
I stopped by autobody specialty and picked up some cage nuts.
probably easier to just use hex nuts on the front cowl.
