I have a 1966 425 that I believe is still 100% stock. (10.5:1 compression, 4bbl, dual exhaust, good oil pressure, runs choppy, but fairly decent considering the age)

Not sure if it's ever been apart, but I need to start doing some normal tune up maintenance on it to see if I can get it running well in the condition it's in.

I was going to install a known working HEI I have, and I know when I do that, it's going to require a slightly different plug due to the different ignition voltages.

What plug would be the recommended one for this type of setup, and where should I gap them? I know plug technology has changed considerably in the 20+ years since I last tuned up one of these beasts.

Also, it looks like it originally had the crossover exhaust to a single outlet, but the passenger manifold was changed out, and the extra port on the driver's side was capped with a nice steel stamped piece that looks specifically made for it. The cap is in really bad shape. Is there a decent source to get a replacement for that? Would I be better off just getting the correct manifold for that side, or a matched pair?

Does anyone make headers for a BBO in a B-body starfire, and are they worth the trouble it would take to install them if so on a stock engine?

Also, I have heard that carb rebuild kits are getting scarce for these old Q-jets. Any recommendations on acquiring one, or would it be better to just replace it with a new edelbrock or holley, or something along those lines?

Finally, I have the stock open rear end. I think I may have found a posi out of a 65 starfire complete from drum to drum. $250 a good deal on it, or should I look for other options. No clue on the condition other than the pictures show it's complete.

I would prefer to keep it all stock, as the car is unmolested, but in the condition it's in, a full restoration probably isn't worth it unfortunately.

Any advice would be appreciated!

Thanks,
-Jeff

p.s. if this needs moved to the big block section, I have no problem with that, I just figured it might get a faster answer in here, as that section does not seem to get quite the traffic that gen. discussion does.

 

I can't answer everything, but there are still quite a few vendors that specialize in rebuild kits for quadrajets. http://www.cliffshighperformance.com/services.html and http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/t...jet-index.html come to mind.
As for the diff, something that rare would probably be worth it for $250.00.
The exhaust manifolds that were on my 350 when I got it have something very similar to the cap you describe. Cost-cutting?
Good luck!

 

Get a compression tester and check the psi in all of the cylinders to see if any are leaky. Also, running on 7 cylinders due to a bad wire or plug would make it run choppy.

You will also have to run a keyed on 12v source from the fuse panel. An hei will run like dog crap if you use the stock points wires.
I'd run an AC delco R 35 S plug , gap it at .035 and see how it likes it. Should work well for you.

From my experience the driver's side should be a single outlet that dumps in the center straight down. Letter A manifold. Passenger side will be a letter T or letter R if it came with single exhaust. The R manifold was on the 455, but works fine on a 425 as well of course.
There are no aftermarket big car headers because they would drop right into your steering linkage. 71 & later have the steering in front of the engine instead of behind like the older models.



That's a matter of preference going to an aftermarket carb. Some people just don't want to mess with an old worn out one.
Greg@ http://www.sparkyscarbs.com/ can pretty much get you what ever you would need for your Qjet.

Great deal for any working posi rearend. It costs 1200-2000 to get yourself one from scratch with all new parts.

I agree. Once you get it up and running in tip-top shape, you won't care about the numbers anymore anyway. Your mind will be in a better place.

 

I planned on running the compression check when I had the plugs out to see if it still in good shape on that score. That'll tell me more once I get that far and get a good working ignition on it. Never did like setting points & dwell, etc, but I do have the old meter to do it if necessary. Thanks for the tip on running the direct wire to the fuse block. The old one I had got its juice from "somewhere" under the hood. i forget how I ran it...

Need to call the guy with the posi tomorrow and see if I can make the 4 hour drive to get it this weekend.

Thanks for the links on sparkys carbs. I've heard the name mentioned, but didn't know how to find them til now.

I'll have to check my manifolds tomorrow to see if the letters match what should be there.

So far I'm having a blast with it. Every time I punch i down the road, it puts a big smile on my face!

-Jeff

 

Couple other things I'd probably be doing at that age. Timing set, cam and lifter inspection. Problem is, once you pull things apart for a look, maybe just best replacing the parts while you're at it. A compression test was already mentioned, and could lead to some head work.

 

As far as the rebuild, I got a basic kit, which should be perfectly fine for the vast majority of cases, for less than $20 at Advance Auto (float will be another $10 or so).

No need to spend princely sums for a carb rebuild for a stock motor.

Also, I would recommend Cliff Ruggles's book, which has better pictures, has more relavent information, and is easier to understand than the standard Rochester manual (though you want to have that, too).

- Eric

 

I presume you are referring to your Starfire here. Which would have originally came with a dual exhaust. The "S" manifold required for dual exhaust is reproduced now, so finding one is not as hard and expensive as previously. Personally, I'd go duals.


$250 is approaching dirt cheap. Please let me know if you don't get it, as I would like to.
Would probably have 3.23s, but may have 3.42s. Any idea what you have? Regardless, you can swap ring and pinions.


Personally I think full restorations are highly overrated. There's nothing wrong with "drivers". In fact, there is a lot to be said for them. A car can only be original once, and the more original parts you have on it no matter what the condition the more original the car is. And all the money in the world can't make something original!

 

All B body dual exhaust manifolds had a machined cap on the passenger side manifold. The SB cap is repopped but I do not thing the BB one is so keep what you have or have one machined. No off the shelf headers for that car. 1975 was first year for HEI... see what plugs a 75 455 would take and use those. I think the gap was 060 and I would use that....why have an HEI with tremendous spark capability and use a small point type gap on the plugs?

 

Yup! Going to have to set timing if I am replacing the distributor, no matter what else. Not too worried about inspecting the cam, more worried about the possibility of a burnt valve from running on unleaded fuel. I have no clue if the previous owner (of 16 years and only about 4000 miles in that time) had used a lead additive. The car was being driven somewhat regularly during that whole time, and only sat for the last year until I got it. I've probably put somewhere around 200 miles on it already!

 

My original 66 starfire had the crossover pipe style for a single exhaust, and I believe that was original I still have that motor sitting in the garage that way. Always wanted duals on it, so I will stick with that setup for sure!



I have no clue what mine is currently, and I just called in the rear end. it sold, but the guy that sold it has a pile of 65-66 parts available, including spare engine & trans. He's going to get a list together for me of what all he has left...


I agree 100% on that, I don't want a show car, just a driver. Unfortunately it needs quite a bit of work before I'll feel safe enough in it to take the nephews for a ride!

 

Don't say that to the "big dogs". Not my term, I remember Bill Lapierre using it when he saw my old '66 and commented on my needing to attend to a few things if I was going to "run with the big dogs". He's a nice guy, actually, and what I didn't have to heart to tell him is I never wanted to. I make my own cars as good as I can within the limits of my budget and talent (which is def. limited even more than my budget).

Gotta leave some money left over too for foolish things like food and rent and clothing.

 

I have gone the resto route before; the Rund car is a re-creation using about 12 donor cars, so it is a ground up build. OTOH, my other 66, #24, is pretty close to original and I don't want to wipe the slate clean by restoring it and trying to duplicate all the little nuances of the original factory build. There are plenty of "restored" 66 W30s out there now, we don't need one more to be made from a nice, original example, imo.

 

I feel the same way. As much as I appreciate a very well restored or all original low mileage beauty, I'd rather have one I'm not afraid do drive anywhere, and worry about the occasional nick or blemish. Cars were meant to be driven. :-)

Back when I was autocrossing there was some guy that used to show with his brand new vette to most of the meets one summer. He spent more time polishing it in the lot than he did anything else. That's an event for melting tires and cornering til the tires howl! He probably had the most powerful car there, and never placed higher than the bottom 5 out of everyone that showed up. I hate to say, but most of the people were laughing at him, and he didn't have a clue...

Anyway, Thanks tons for all the helpful advice guys. Hopefully this weekend I'l finally get the ignition tune-up done, and make sure my compression is nice and even across the board. Need to check out the electric switch-pitch system too and make sure that's functioning like it should. I can feel the trans drop a gear when I kick it down, but I don't think the pitch is switching in the TC at all.

After that's all lined out, the next step will be the brakes. I'll start another thread once I get there, as I know I have a few ideas I'd like to bounce off you guys concerning that as well. ;-)

-Jeff

 

Hey, careful there, as I also have a new Vette(ZO6). I run the crap out of mine though. Got with a group that rents out road course tracks, and run them on Hoosier R6's. Mostly just flying chunks of track rubber that dont mar much, but having to much fun to care.

 

Apologies. Wasn't trying to bash vette owners by any means, just the fact that this specific one seemed to think autocrossing was a car show. He'd more or less idle through a lot of the track and hold up the people in line behind him he was so slow.

If you wanna race the car, hit the gas! If you just want people to stare at it, park it in a show in the lot and let everyone ooo and aaah!

On another note, I've apparently located a HUGE stockpile of 65/66 starfire parts I'm going after this weekend. Details to follow if there's any spares I won't need...

-Jeff

 

You've got nothing to apologize about, as you were just sharing a fun story, as my reply was meant. The thing really funny, is how some get a very track capable car, and just putz around in it. Dont see any of those in the track group I'm with though. You should see what my wheels look like from brake dust by days end. Some cars spin off the track, and get pretty dirty.

 

well, I dragged home a HUGE truckload of parts yesterday when I went to get the posi rear end. I listed them in the for sale section if anyone wants to see what's available. There's a lot of '65 stuff that I can't specifically use or don't need on my car, but the deal was for all of it, so I figured I would drag it all home... *sigh* and I JUST got the garage cleaned up... Oh well!

-Jeff

 

Do you have any 66 starfire mid body trim, specificly the vents on the frt fenders? I am also looking for center steering wheel cap for a tele/tilt wheel common in 66 starfires/66 toros.

 

none spare. sorry.

Best of luck on the body trim, those are difficult to find.

-Jeff